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Nikon D1x problem


BeBu Lamar

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After getting the new battery my D1x works OK but there is a problem. Often after turning the power on and trying to take the first shot the camera fault on ERR. Pressing the shutter release again and it works again. The new battery doesn't seem to last very long.
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After getting the new battery my D1x works OK but there is a problem. Often after turning the power on and trying to take the first shot the camera fault on ERR. Pressing the shutter release again and it works again. The new battery doesn't seem to last very long.

Hope you don't mind a blunt answer: I would suggest not to throw any more good money on a DSLR from the "stone age" such as the D1x.

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I had a D1X which did the same thing. After the initial hang up, it used to work for the rest of the session.

 

And I wonder how long the batteries for these old cameras have been in storage. I bought two "new" batteries for an old Kodak DCS, neither of which lasted long.

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Hope you don't mind a blunt answer: I would suggest not to throw any more good money on a DSLR from the "stone age" such as the D1x.

 

To me stone age is about 2.6 millions years ago. I know for you it's a couple of years. And no I don't mind your answer. I don't really use the camera. I just want to make it works. I like old stuff. Besides I spent $29 for the battery. I can't find the real Nikon ones any way.

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I had the same problem with a D2h and with another 'warranty' repair(with a new lens the blocking screw was not there and damaged a lever) the camera was open and they replaced the shutter for only the price of the shutter and the problem with the first exposure was solved.
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Besides I spent $29 for the battery. I can't find the real Nikon ones any way.

 

Sorting through the piles of batteries I have for these, it seems as though the non-Nikon ones are more likely to work at all, and work better when they do work.

 

Rarely do I use a non-Nikon battery. I've had to switch over to 3rd party EN-EL4as since Nikons are hard to find anymore(although still seem to work fine when they do) and also had to go 3rd party for my Fuji S5 since they decided to not lock the camera out of working with Nikon EN-EL3es and genuine Fuji ones are scarce also.

 

With the D1 series though, there are still contemporary discussions out there in the recesses of the internet that talk about how 3rd party batteries were often better than Nikons even when both were still readily available.

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Sorting through the piles of batteries I have for these, it seems as though the non-Nikon ones are more likely to work at all, and work better when they do work.

 

Rarely do I use a non-Nikon battery. I've had to switch over to 3rd party EN-EL4as since Nikons are hard to find anymore(although still seem to work fine when they do) and also had to go 3rd party for my Fuji S5 since they decided to not lock the camera out of working with Nikon EN-EL3es and genuine Fuji ones are scarce also.

 

With the D1 series though, there are still contemporary discussions out there in the recesses of the internet that talk about how 3rd party batteries were often better than Nikons even when both were still readily available.

 

I am still confused as to why my dummy battery doesn't work.

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When you gutted the old one to make the dummy, was there anything other than power cells inside?

 

Yes, I was going to say that I'd foolishly assume that Nikon might have put some electronics in their batteries beyond just welding some 18650s in some plastic. If there's some battery lifetime monitoring management (or, in Nikon's case, a pointless attempt to block third-party accessories), it might be sensitive. I assumed BeBu's "dummy battery" was trying to retain any such electronics and not just the physical attachments. How smart the smart battery has to be is another matter - and in the vintage of the D1x there may be less cleverness than in recent systems which at least try to track age.

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Yes, I was going to say that I'd foolishly assume that Nikon might have put some electronics in their batteries beyond just welding some 18650s in some plastic. If there's some battery lifetime monitoring management (or, in Nikon's case, a pointless attempt to block third-party accessories), it might be sensitive. I assumed BeBu's "dummy battery" was trying to retain any such electronics and not just the physical attachments. How smart the smart battery has to be is another matter - and in the vintage of the D1x there may be less cleverness than in recent systems which at least try to track age.

Newer cameras do have more contacts than just the power contacts for various reason and the camera would know if it's not the original battery pack. However, I look inside the battery chamber and the only connection is the 2 + and - power contacts. Besides I see no active component inside the battery pack.

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When you gutted the old one to make the dummy, was there anything other than power cells inside?

 

There is connection between charger connector and the batteries. There is some diode and resistor but the charger connector isn't make contact when in the camera.

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You cannot rule out that the electronics have failed in the camera.

 

The Nikon EH-4 is the AC Adapter for the camera.

 

The even older Nikon E3 batteries are made to recharge with the same charger as the D1 and D1x, the MH-16.The Nikon E3 powers up and operates using a dummy battery with a standard AC adapter wired into the dummy. I have not tried that with the D1, as I have the EH-4.

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You cannot rule out that the electronics have failed in the camera.

 

The Nikon EH-4 is the AC Adapter for the camera.

 

The even older Nikon E3 batteries are made to recharge with the same charger as the D1 and D1x, the MH-16.The Nikon E3 powers up and operates using a dummy battery with a standard AC adapter wired into the dummy. I have not tried that with the D1, as I have the EH-4.

 

I do think the camera has some source of problem that is why occasionally on start up it doesn't shoot the first picture. I am just wondering why the dummy battery doesn't work. Besides I found its ISO 125 is way overrated. I think it's about ISO 80. Not the meter is wrong though it's just the sensitivity of the sensor at ISO 125 is a lot less than rated. Not the shutter speed either because I tried at 1 sec and it's easily verified that the shutter speed is correct. Not the lens aperture either as I use the same lens on other cameras.

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IIRC, DPReview used to do a lot of "claimed vs actual ISO" tests; DxO do it these days. DxO usually seems to report an overestimate; I think, at least for earlier cameras, DPReview mostly suggested the reverse. What they were comparing vs the amount of post-processing done to the images is another matter - and I don't know to what extent DPReview were compensating for the T-stop of whatever lens they were using.
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