derek_green Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 There is? Never noticed one in the Kowa 6 and Super 66 I've had apart. What brings the winding to a halt, is a pawl dropping into the over-soft slot of an under-engineered spacing wheel. If the crank is used, you get extra leverage, which puts more force on the chewing-gum-like spacer wheel, with a higher likelihood of the wheel teeth bending against the pawl. When that happens your frame spacing goes awry and you'll eventually get overlapped frames. That, to me, is a much more serious fault than making a clutch (if there is one) do what it was designed to do a little more frequently. In fact a slipping clutch would prevent too much force being put on the spacer wheel, and IMO that could only be a good thing! WRT the Pentacon 6. Another good camera when it works. Mine gave great service for a lot longer than my Kowa 6 lasted. It eventually needed a CLA, which was a total PITA. The slow speed adjustment entails carefully 'nipping up' the gear-train assembly to the focal-plane mechanism, within a fraction of a millimetre precision and only a single screw-head to hold it in place while the rest of the camera body is assembled round it. An exercise in total frustration. OTOH, my metal-bodied Mamiya 645s have just soldiered on for decades with only the need for minor attention, plus the replacement of their foam light seals. Perfect frame spacing every time and an instant-return mirror. No lens or shutter jams, and the camera doesn't care if it's wound on or not when you change lenses! Or if you slam the film door closed a bit too hard. I would consider a ratchet-and-pawl to be a "clutch mechanism", albeit one without the slippage that the automotive variety would employ. It's just semantics. I like my way of _gently_ advancing the film on a Kowa which helps avoid the strain. Perhaps you prefer another technique. Cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisfellow Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 Hey, guys. So, I'm stuck - like my camera. I had the general issue with the locked winder, took the lens off and now I can't even get that back on. It seems like the pins for the shutter are not perfectly lining up to lock in with the body (Kowa Six mm). I literally just got my film in today, had never seen any issues before with locked up issues, and suddenly, the moment I try to wind the film in, it sticks and everything goes to hell. If you can help me at least get my lens back on the body properly, i'd be grateful. Thanks for your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Jeez, when will people learn not to touch Kowa Sixes with a bargepole? I had the general issue with the locked winder, took the lens off and now I can't even get that back on. It seems like the pins for the shutter are not perfectly lining up to lock in with the body OK. There's a tiny brass pin that needs to be depressed, then the two lugs that cock the lens can be twisted around to the cocked position. Obviously, the body and lens need their lugs and holes to align before the lens can be mounted. Usually it's the lens at fault, since it's easy to trip the lens while it's off the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Also , the 2 cocking pins at the back can look to be in place, but they're not . Make sure you twist the 2 pins firmly against their stop , if the shutter blades are visible it means it's not completely cocked . Get back to us if this doesn't work , also include a pic of the back of the lens . Peter , a lover of freak cameras :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hogg377 Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 I'm also having problems with the super 66 which I have acquired although I think my problem is different to those I've seen so far... So at the moment I cannot remove the lens or the back and the mirror is in the up position. The lens is also not cocked. However, when trying to wind on in order to cock both the lens and the body, the winder just turns freely without much resistance. I've taken the panel of the side to look inside the mechanism to see if I could figure out the issue. I can't see any obvious damage to any of the gears that some people have stated before. The only parts that move is the gear mechanism connecting to the film back that winds the film. The lower gears that are connected to the winder shaft don't engage which from my tinkering seems to be the part that drives the cocking mechanism. While turning there is what looks like a pawl mechanism (might not be a pawl...) attached to the bottom gear which clicks when turning. I'm not sure if the problem I'm having is that the cocking mechanism has become de-synchronized? The two gears I have highlighted below is where I think the problem is. The gear pointed to on the right simply doesn't turn when attempting to wind on and I feel like it should on order to drive the gear on the left. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 I'm going to see if I can find any of my pics from servicing these cameras . But , first of all , those 2 gears are not the problem areas . There is a gear on top of your right hand side (red arrow ) gear , this gear is driven by a single toothed pawl that fails and causes (one of) the winding problems . Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hogg377 Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 That would be really helpful thanks peter! Right I see, I have also looked at that smaller gear as you mention and again I don't see any damage to it, the gear just doesn't engage with anything. Is the pawl that you mention the one that is attached to the very bottom gear? When winding the small gear rotates and the pawl arm attached to the lower gear clicks as the gear rotates. I'm kind of stuck at this point as I don't want to start dismantling the top of that mechanism further but I can't really figure anything else from what I can see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 [ATTACH=full]1347130[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1347131[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1347131[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1347131[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1347131[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1347131[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 The first picture shows the small drive gear that is driven by the winding crank . The second shows the pawl that engages with that gear and then drives the shutter and film advance . The pawl I repaired by brazing a carbide tooth from a circular saw blade and then winding a spring to fit (was a bit too much heat for the little thing) ! Should you take that plate ( held by the 3 screws ) off , check that the spring is in fact there and working . Hope this gives you a bit more to play with . Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 The two gears I have highlighted below is where I think the problem is. The gear pointed to on the right simply doesn't turn when attempting to wind on and I feel like it should on order to drive the gear on the left. Just an observation. That mechanism shown by the OP looks far too clean to be in a camera that's been working. It looks to me as if the camera has been previously stripped and cleaned. There's no grease or gear 'dust' anywhere to be seen. My suspicion would be that the previous owner has attempted repair and failed, or stripped the mechanism and incorrectly re-assembled it. If this camera is a recent acquisition, then simply put it back together and pack it off whence it came for a refund. If that's not possible, then resell it for whatever you can get for it. Buy a Kowa 6; buy a lifetime of grief. Because that camera and/or lens will almost certainly spend more time in repair than in operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hogg377 Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 The first picture shows the small drive gear that is driven by the winding crank . The second shows the pawl that engages with that gear and then drives the shutter and film advance . The pawl I repaired by brazing a carbide tooth from a circular saw blade and then winding a spring to fit (was a bit too much heat for the little thing) ! Should you take that plate ( held by the 3 screws ) off , check that the spring is in fact there and working . Hope this gives you a bit more to play with . Peter Thanks for these pictures Peter, I understand what you were saying now. I've taken off the mechanism to get to the pawl and I can see the Achilles heel now, the pawl just slips when trying to engage with the gear. Check the picture below for the condition of the pawl, I can't see exactly where damage has been caused but it does seem really small. The only other thing I can see is that my spring is attached differently to yours, I don't know if that's significant? But I suppose there's not much that can be done without fixing the pawl as you have... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Mine was so completely screwed up that the small tab was actually bending away . I can't say if yours is all that bad or not . Is it possible for you to try and turn that gear by hand to see if you can complete the lens cocking operation , Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hogg377 Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Mine was so completely screwed up that the small tab was actually bending away . I can't say if yours is all that bad or not . Is it possible for you to try and turn that gear by hand to see if you can complete the lens cocking operation , Peter Oh really, seems like you did a good job fixing the pawl though. After re-assembling the winding mechanism I found that somehow the pawl had stopped slipping as much and I did manage to get it to cock and fire once. After that though it started slipping again. It's frustrating that this tiny part is the only problem with an other wise functional winding mechanism (from how it seems). I can get the pawl to engage and wind on with a little bit of assistance by applying a bit of pressure onto the pawl so it stops slipping. I wonder if a stronger spring attached to the pawl would stop the slipping problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 A possibility , but you may have to bend it yourself ( not that hard if you find the wire gauge you need). It might be worth contacting "Ross Yerkes" in California , he may have or offer a repair for that part . Peter Or do you know a welder that works with small stuff . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 There are screwdriver marks on the two screws holding the pawl adjustment plate. Have you tried adjusting the position of that plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 ^ Great observation "Joe" :) . Is that plate you mention with the 2 screws actually adjustable ? My experiences with the 2 damaged ones I got had such mangled teeth that an adjustment wasn't even considered , nice to learn something new every day . So do you believe there's a possibility he could adjust that plate for a better engagement of the pawl tooth ? Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Is that plate you mention with the 2 screws actually adjustable ? It's been a while since I bothered to fruitlessly poke about inside a Kowa 6/66, but that plate rings some sort of bell. Plus there are repairer's scratch marks at one end of it, so I guess there's some movement in it when those screws are loosened. So do you believe there's a possibility he could adjust that plate for a better engagement of the pawl tooth ? Maybe. What is there to lose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hogg377 Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Thanks for the ideas joe and peter. I had wondered what exactly the purpose of the plate was, I'll see if I can adjust that to achieve any success. I think I'll try replacing the spring for the pawl with something a little stronger to stop it from slipping so easily. The spring in place looks a bit mangled. I'm not sure if applying some extra lubrication on some of mechanisms might help too. I'll report back on progress (if any...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 Good luck! But I'd thoroughly check any lens(es) that came with the camera before spending a load of time on the body. Those Seiko/Kowa leaf shutters are a pile of donkey poo as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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