Tripod With Lateral Arm Advice

There is also the option of buying second hand although at present you are unlikely to be able to examine the goods in person. However, if the goods are not as described when you receive them, refunds can be negotiated (despite what some advertisers say !).

 

Can you wait until you can examine both alternatives in person, or are you in a greater hurry than that ?

Just watched some YouTube videos. One video compared the Manfrotto 190 to the K&F. It was very interesting to actually see them together. The Manfrotto 190 is much bigger and looks sturdier. The K&F has had a lot of very good reviews actually, but I'm very hesitant. The price is very appealing and I could always use it as a travel / 2nd tripod, but I am considering your point that if I end up buying again later, it's actually added to my overall budget. In the short term, I need a solution to be able to use my 5D MKIII with the cobbled together system I currently use. This would mean either buying a different head for my monopod "side arm" or a Really Right Stuff L brackett - if I can find it in France - which would be at least $180. I could put a very basic monopod head on that would probably work for a temporary solution. This might be the way to go while I research and figure out what to do next.

Best of luck, whatever you decide.

I just got my sales report for last month and I think I do have a budget for getting a decent system. OK, I mean the lower end of good pro level. Any recommendations?

What about this used Gitzo? It's half the price of retail.

Gitzo makes excellent tripods--if this is in good condition it should work well for you. I happen not to like the collet locks for changing the leg height that Gitzo uses so I have never used their tripods, but I have owned two of their tripod heads that I liked a lot. Good luck with your choices!

What about this used Gitzo? It's half the price of retail.

 

I currently own the older version of this pod with a base plate. The one your showing is with a center column and has anti rotating G-lock legs that makes it easier to open and close. It’s three sections and is a taller version. The price looks very good if its in good shape. It will last you a lifetime and is generally viewed as a professional’s tripod. I would get it at the price they are asking. Good hunting.

I want to thank you all for your generous input into helping me understand my options. It's been invaluable.

The GT3530LS is a very sturdy tripod with a good height. I consider the Series 3 Gitzo to be the best size for general use, even if a little large for travel. G-Loc collars have legs which are keyed (internally) so they don't rotate. It only takes 1/4 turn to lock or unlock the sections. The bushings are tapered so that they jam in position, and won't collapse even if the collar comes loose a bit. The bushing is keyed to the collars, which forcibly extracts it when you deliberately loosen the collar.

 

The center section is replaceable. This tripod has a column, which can be replaced with a solid plate or leveling platform. I use the latter for quick leveling and solid support. Either one would be well-suited to use with a horizontal arm. Manfrotto makes a side arm which you would probably find ideal, At one time, Gitzo had one with a rack-and-pinion adjustment.

 

Manfrotto 131D Lateral Side Arm for Tripods (Black)

 

I have two GT3540 tripods, the 4-section version of the GT3530, an LS (55"), and XLS (79") for video. The 3530 is just a bit too large to fit in a 24" suitcase without removing the center section..

Edited May 2, 2020 by Ed_Ingold

leslienicolephoto, I agree with Edward’s comments. Back when there were fewer carbon fiber tripods the general thinking was that three section tripods were more stable than 4 sections. That is generally true if your using a seismograph to measure vibrations but clinically never really mattered. It was overkill then and even more so now that there are so many carbon fiber pods. The series 3 Gitzo is the perfect balance and you will never regret purchasing it. As well it will retain its value. Again if this tripod is in good shape then it is a more than worth what they are asking. Ask to see if it comes with a base plate. Gitzo used to ship their center column pods with a base plate as an option. Mine came with one and the center column has been sitting in the box for many years but you may like the center column. Good hunting.

I agree with Ed that the series 3 Gitzo is a fine general purpose tripod. However, it is not the most sturdy, most stable of all tripods. I have used one a lot, but wouldn't dare to extend the centre column more than 5 or 10 cm. Nor would i put a lateral arm on it (though i have one, and, yes, i occasionaly do. And with trepidation and often regrets (afterwards, of course)).

When using a lateral arm, it is weight that matters quite a bit. You're adding an arm and putting weight on the end of it, out of the centre of gravity. So 'the feet' have to be heavy enough not to topple. I also use a lateral arm on a series 5 Gitzo, and that is quite different. Quite stable (though you still have to take care to extend the arm over one of the tripod legs, if possible) even with a heavy large format camera (though a even larger studio stand would be better for that).

Used Gitzos can be (you have to look for them, and be patient) surprisingly inexpensive. And the old ones are really solid, and easy to pull apart and service. So maybe a series 5 would be worth suggesting?

 

The number of leg sections, i find, is important. The sections get increasingly thinner, of course. And there is the number of collars to consider. And one extra section does indeed make for a less stable tripod, when all things count.

But when you don't have to use all of the sections often, and you're not testing the tripod to its limit, an extra section often also means the sections are shorter, i.e. the 'base' length, with no sections extended, is shorter. Which is nice for travelling and work height flexibility.

You do see some terrible tripods sometimes though, with far too many sections, the lowest of which are no more than finger thin.

If the center of gravity extends beyond the leg(s), the tripod will be unstable regardless of how thick the legs are. Having a leg in the center of view is not consistent with using the camera for an "overhead" shot, so you have it between legs and exercise care about the balance. Using a counterweight keeps the center of gravity in the middle, but adds at least as much weight as the camera itself. This is one case in which a weight suspended from a hook under the head will improve stability, by lowering the center of gravity.

 

More leg sections means the smallest leg is thinner. There are also more collars to adjust if you open the tripod fully. However each joint in a Gitzo tripod is incredibly rigid. When locked, the leg is held at two points over a span of 4" or so, between the collar bushing and a bushing between the leg and the inside of the next section. The running clearance is on the order of 0.003", so you won't feel any wobble even before tightening the section.

 

I bought my first CF Gitzo for a VERY attractive price. The precious owner had used oil on the legs to make them run smoother. The oil cause the upper bushing to swell and bind, making it very difficult to extend or close the section. A set of new bushings cost about $10, and a little naphtha on a shotgun brush removed the oil. Voila!

Edited May 6, 2020 by Ed_Ingold

If the center of gravity extends beyond the leg(s), the tripod will be unstable regardless of how thick the legs are. Having a leg in the center of view is not consistent with using the camera for an "overhead" shot, so you have it between legs and exercise care about the balance.

 

If the angle of the legs is individually adjustable, more stability can be gained by having the 'rear' leg (assuming the camera on its extension arm is over the space between the 'front' two legs) at a greater angle than the other two.

If the angle of the legs is individually adjustable, more stability can be gained by having the 'rear' leg (assuming the camera on its extension arm is over the space between the 'front' two legs) at a greater angle than the other two.

Yes, but the angle of the head is skewed as a results. Unless you have a Benbo, the angle of the cross arm is not adjustable. Even a leveling platform has a range of only +/- 7 degrees.

 

Anything you do to widen the leg circle helps, including extending or spreading the legs. Shooting the Chicago skyline on a windy night, I quickly learned the need to change the leg angle, but of all the legs equally. Hanging weights on the center column does nothing to decrease shake, but helps lower the center of gravity, and plant the legs more firmly into a soft surface (e.g., grass).

Yes, but the angle of the head is skewed as a results. Unless you have a Benbo, the angle of the cross arm is not adjustable. Even a leveling platform has a range of only +/- 7 degrees.

 

Agreed - see my earlier post. There is, however, a limited amount of adjustment on most tripod heads, which may help, or, depending on the subject matter, it may be possible to apply a small amount of tilt to that. Anyone remember wedging the enlarging easel at an angle to 'correct' mildly converging verticals, then stopping down the lens to accommodate this ? Ah, happy days - and nowadays, much simpler in software.

If the center of gravity extends beyond the leg(s), the tripod will be unstable regardless of how thick the legs are.

 

Indeed.

But before that (moving the center of gravity beyond the legs) happens, we're moving a weight on an arm out from the center of gravity. That will also move the center of gravity, but not necessarily beyond the legs. How much depends on the weight of the thing on the arm relative to the weight of the legs, and on the length of the arm. So heavy legs indeed help. Studio column stands with a lateral beam use a weight to keep stable.

Edited May 7, 2020 by q.g._de_bakker

I go back to my earlier premise, that for maximum stability, use a counterweight on the horizontal arm.

 

I actually do this on an almost daily basis. In order to keep a pair of microphones out of view in a video, I suspend them at the end of a 9' boom. The microphones weigh about 2 pounds, and I put a 15 pound weight about 18" from the center on the opposite side of the support pivot. I can support a heavier load by adjusting the position of the counterweight, or the length of the boom pole. The total weight on the center column is under 25 lbs, which is well within the capacity of a Gitzo Series 3 tripod. The tripod has a 40" leg circle, so the boom extends well beyond. I'm using a medium-duty light stand rather than a tripod, but the principle is the same. It also has a 1-3/8" spud socket rather than a 3/8" screw.

 

A columnar camera stand would be ideal in a studio, where you have a smooth, level surface. My rig fits into a 48" canvas bag, and can be used on uneven surfaces by adjusting its "lazy leg." A typical camera stand would have 6' column and weigh 70 pounds or so. You, on the other hand, would be lighter by $1200 or more.

 

Checking the viewfinder on a camera suspended over the product might be challenging. The same monitor I use for shooting video also works when the camera is in still mode. I can put the monitor anywhere I like it using an HDMI cable. I've used it for shooting "selfies" (ID photos). I even adapted a small ball head to the self-same boom pole with a bracket for the monitor or iPhone on the handle. Our local NPR station has a 60' boom they cart around on a flatbed truck. It collapses to 15' and weighs less than a ton.

Edited May 7, 2020 by Ed_Ingold

Using a counterweight keeps the center of gravity in the middle, but adds at least as much weight as the camera itself. This is one case in which a weight suspended from a hook under the head will improve stability, by lowering the center of gravity.

Never thought about this - thanks for pointing it out!

I've been perusing a lot of food photography blogs lately and a popular tripod set up is a Manfrotto 058b Triaut , the Manfrotto Jr. Geared Head, and the Manfrotto 131B Side Arm.

If you have the money for this combination I'm sure it will work well for you. A good geared head is a pleasure to use for precise set ups--I have the Manfrotto 405 and love it for studio still life work. Be aware that this won't be all that portable--the tripod/head combination you've mentioned is about 15 pounds without the side arm that probably adds another couple of pounds.

If you have the money for this combination I'm sure it will work well for you. A good geared head is a pleasure to use for precise set ups--I have the Manfrotto 405 and love it for studio still life work. Be aware that this won't be all that portable--the tripod/head combination you've mentioned is about 15 pounds without the side arm that probably adds another couple of pounds.

I'll be saving up for this. ;-) It's meant for studio work, so the weight is fine. I have a lighter old Bogen that I use as well.

Does anyone have experience with the Sirui HA-77 side arm? Twice price of the Manfrotto but seems a bit more flexible with its positioning abilities.

 

I'm surprised nobody has yet suggested a Benbo (or Benrow knockoff). The ingenious and unique design means that the column can be used at any angle, including horizontally and upside-down to get low angle shots.

 

They're not the easiest thing to use, but once you get used to working with one, it does things that you just can't do with a standard tripod.

 

I can't recommend the Benbo heads though. You need to look elsewhere for a decent ball or 3 way head. The Benbo ball head is substantial, but has a tendency to stick in the locked position, which isn't good.

I'm surprised nobody has yet suggested a Benbo (or Benrow knockoff). The ingenious and unique design means that the column can be used at any angle, including horizontally and upside-down to get low angle shots.

 

They're not the easiest thing to use, but once you get used to working with one, it does things that you just can't do with a standard tripod.

 

I can't recommend the Benbo heads though. You need to look elsewhere for a decent ball or 3 way head. The Benbo ball head is substantial, but has a tendency to stick in the locked position, which isn't good.

 

Er - check out post #3, please.

Er - check out post #3, please.

Sorry Tony, missed that among all the "You need to spend $X,000 on Really Expensive Stuff" advice.

Sorry Tony, missed that among all the "You need to spend $X,000 on Really Expensive Stuff" advice.

Not a problem - I miss things all the time, as the years slowly advance :):):D