elfcirynn Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 I recently purchased a Kodak Medalist II which seems to be in decent shape, aside from the fact that the focusing collar is stuck fast (and perhaps a minor issue with the self-timer). My understanding of the camera is that I can't really check the shutter speeds without being able to extend the lens, and I haven't had a chance to take a whack at disassembling it for a bit of cleaning and poking around; I figured I would leverage some of the internet's collective experience to make sure I'm not missing something obvious (or if anyone has had a similar issue and solved it). Worst case scenario, I've got a beautiful 30 dollar paperweight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmac Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 Try gently warming the focusing helicoil with a hair drier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfcirynn Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 No dice yet, but thank you for the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmac Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 Also try dribbling some WD40 in the focus helicoil and leave it sit for a number of hours. Heat again, let it cool then heat again, cool again and so on. Dribble some more WD40 then begin to apply pressure to the focusing ring, attempt to rotate it. To help get a better grip, a cable tie can be fixed to the focus ring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) Also try dribbling some WD40 in the focus helicoil and leave it sit for a number of hours. Heat again, let it cool then heat again, cool again and so on. Dribble some more WD40 then begin to apply pressure to the focusing ring, attempt to rotate it. To help get a better grip, a cable tie can be fixed to the focus ring WD40 is special. "The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.". It is a witch's brew that should not be used on delicate machinery. I suspect its long-term effects have ruined many a camera. never 'dribble' any lubricant into any part of a camera. At most, a infinitesimal amount of a solvent like naphtha should be introduced into the lens ring.don't use heat on inflammable liquids. In My Big Fat Greek Wedding, the dad uses Windex as a sort of miracle drug.... Edited April 20, 2019 by JDMvW 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_stobbs3 Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 Still looking for a solvent that works on Agfa green grease. (I have a beautiful Solinette waiting patiently.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) Agfa green grease NTIM, but I suspect that the "grease" was originally white and brass has added the green (verdigris). Edited April 20, 2019 by JDMvW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conrad_hoffman Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 Probably helped turn it from a grease to an epoxy too. I use a very small amount of naphtha for such things. If the grease is really bad it may take many cycles of gentle heating and solvents to free it up. Does it move at all, even creep slightly under a magnifier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfcirynn Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 Probably helped turn it from a grease to an epoxy too. I use a very small amount of naphtha for such things. If the grease is really bad it may take many cycles of gentle heating and solvents to free it up. Does it move at all, even creep slightly under a magnifier? It steadfastly refuses to budge, but I haven't tried anything beyond gentle heat and elbow grease yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conrad_hoffman Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 I'm not familiar with the camera but just want to caution against too much heat, which can damage balsam cemented lenses, and too much solvent, which can get where you don't want it to go. If the helicord is fully back, can you get access to the 2nd thread? You need to get solvent in both. My fear is that somebody got sand or grit of some sort in there, and it's actually galled and seized. Naphtha is pretty safe for plastics, but you might need something more aggressive like toluol. Just don't get it where it can damage anything like paint or plastics. Don't breath 'em! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_stobbs3 Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 Luckily the lens/shutter is in a separate block, held in by screws, so after removing, the focussing assembly is only close to the bellows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfcirynn Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 The answer seems to have been a spot of solvent and a strap wrench for mechanical advantage! So the lens extends (and I cleaned all the gunk off), but it doesn’t seem to be coupled to the range-finder/distance gauge. But the shutter works, which is a plus! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmac Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 The answer seems to have been a spot of solvent and a strap wrench for mechanical advantage! So the lens extends (and I cleaned all the gunk off), but it doesn’t seem to be coupled to the range-finder/distance gauge. But the shutter works, which is a plus! Good job, but how are the shutter speeds, any of them too slow or sticking ? The rangefinder mechanism is probably suffering the same fate as the focus helicoil, with gunk ceasing it up and the camera requiring partial disassembly to get at it. It's not something I'd try, but possibly easy for a repairer familiar with Medalists With the focus moving now and the shutter working, just judge distances and take some photos. How is the lens glass, clean ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfcirynn Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 Lens glass needs a little love, but the shutter speeds seem fairly accurate (I'm not 100% confident with the shutter cocking mechanism atm, it seems like it will need some attention soon). I'll definitely be taking some pictures with it this week (after I learn how to respool onto the 620 rolls), though the only medium format negative carriers I have for my enlarger are 6x6 and 6x7! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfcirynn Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 Finally put some film through the camera and (aside from the shutter triggering mechanism that needs a bit more attention), everything seems to be in pretty good shape! Thank you all for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfcirynn Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 I should mention both of those prints are from the same negative, I just wanted to see how much detail I could still get in a 5x7 with my enlarger fully extended! There’s an insane amount of detail in those 6x9 negatives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cameracravings Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 I just bought Medalist II, and I am currently overhauling it. Shutter blades were sticky so I had to tear down the shutter to clean it up. Then lubed and re-assembled. 1/400 sec works as 1/250 and for some reason 1/100sec fires as 1/150 other than that shutter works well. The only problem left is rangefinder is off. I am trying to figure out how to adjust it. Looking forward to put a roll of film into my Medalist. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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