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Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 532/16


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<p>I just check completed items Super Ikonta B on the 'Bay auction site: (4) under $100 starting at $65/ (4) under $200 starting at $114/ (2) over $200, (1) at $385 and those figures are as of today. By the way the Super Ikonta C (6x9) format is pricier than the "B" (6x6) format listed above. I don't consider them especially rare but they do create wonderful images, the one I have is ca. 1937 uncoated lens Tessar, no flash synch. The images in B&W are exceptional and the color images have a vintage look, very pleasing. The prewar model only does (11) exposures because of the possible use of wooden core spools still around in the '30's and Zeiss' preoccupation with possible framing errors. The spacing is wider between frame lines.</p>
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Just bought one myself, although not on eBay, but directly from Jurgen Kreckel, who restores them. He has several in stock, as well as others (e.g., Super Ikonta BX).

 

Some of the eBay listings are from him. He auctions some, and sells others from his web site at fixed prices.

 

I agree with the others: Not rare.

 

The camera is terrific except for one thing: Eyeglass wearers can't see the full frame in the viewfinder. I either move my eye around or take off my glasses.

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<p>The "Super " model implies a coupled rangefinder and generally nothing less than a fast Tessar, with a Compur shutter. The later a "D" designation actually had a selenium light meter. They are not particular rare. The later coated lenses are most desirable. Condition is probably the price determination factor the later models bringing better prices.<br>

I have a post war interim model that is not coated though! The build quality is good and I'm pleased with the resukts despite the intermittent " iffy" shutter speeds. Mine would benefit from a CLA!<br>

http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/pp/zeiss/sikonta/sikonta.htm<br>

http://www.wctatel.net/web/crye/z-i120.htm</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

 

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<p>Ed,<br>

I have been reading up about Zeiss folders since I picked one up cheaply earlier this year. Since then I have acquired another, a Tessar lens based Ikonta. The super designation is all about an uncoupled rangefinder. However, they do go for much more than I think they are worth. I love my Ikonta and it is my present favourite, however, a little Rollie might be more useful in terms of focusing.<br>

If you really want a good specimen at an affordable price this is what you should do -<br>

Look for an Ikonta, not a super version though but one made after the war so you have an accessory shoe. Buy a cheap accessory shoe rangefinder. The best lens is really a Tessar in these cameras. The Novars are not bad lenses but if you really want the best quality pictures these little gems are capable of, get one with a Tessar 3.5 lens. This setup would be cheaper than a 2.8 lens as well. Try to get one with a Compur shutter. They are just that much better.<br>

The combination above should save you at least 100-150 dollars.</p>

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<p>I bought and sold one years ago. I believe I paid between $150 and $200 for it at the time. It was a post war model with the 80mm F2.8 coated lens and the Synchro Compur shutter. The size was small enough that one could put into a pants pocket, but it felt like you were carrying lead. As it was a slow shooter since you needed a hand held meter, it wound up becoming a drawer dweller and finally I decided to just sell it. Results were decent. If you decide to find one make sure the lens isn't sticky and the bellows is good. Either repair will set you back a good chunk of money.<br>

Look over at antiquecameras dot net</p>

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<p>I had a postwar model with the meter (533/16) for a few years. I don't think these are especially rare; even though you might find only a few listed on the auction site, I think if you check regularly you'll find that there are<em> always</em> a few listed.</p>
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  • 7 years later...
I ought a Super Ikonta 6x6 for 220 on ebay

 

Problem: the release button cannot actuate the shutter. I tested it without film. If with film

does the winder stop after windup one frame, or I must rely on the number thru the red window

 

The following should help.

After you have the film loaded onto the take-up spool and manually advance it (back/door open) until you see the two arrows pointing away from each other, close the back.

 

Then view the film through the window and advance slowly until you see the number 1 in the window. At that point close the windows and go to the top of the camera. Push down on the film counter dial and rotate it counter clockwise until it is at "1" It should stop there and not let you go further. At that point the counter and the film advance are synched and you can shoot using the shutter release button and advance it until it stops at the next frame. You shouldn't have to use the red window after finding frame "1". Hope this helps. (and by the way, this method of rotating the film counter dial counter clockwise works without film in it if you want to test it first.).

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JD's reference to the Ercona is something a person looking into the 6x9 folder format should investigate. I have both the Agfa Record 3, Bessa II & the Ercona II. These (post WW II manufacture)2k15-012-007-vert.thumb.jpg.004f776461132e1a0cc5e732101fcd57.jpg are somewhat "bulky" cameras compared to a 35mm, or even a 6x6 folder, but used with a tripod produce excellent work for any subject. Here I have two from my Ercona that show the full negative (no cropping). The Ercona was purchased from Jurgen, the other two CLA'd by him. Film was 400Tmax & 510-Pyro developer. V600 scans. Aloha, Bill
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<p>I have two 532/16 (s) in great condition except for minor Zeiss bumps, one a 6 x 6, and the other a 6 x 7, two leather cases (one decrepit) and a lens shade. I paid $170 for the most recent one, a month ago.</p>

I too got one of mine with a decrepit case. The front flap was torn off and all the stitching was coming loose on the top and bottom. After 12 hours of work it is in fantastic vintage shape and as solid as the day it left the factory. If I was getting $50 and hour I would have about $600 into a $50 case :)

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FWIW: These 6x9 folders, and also 6x6 folders, fit nicely into a Lowepro Edit 110 case. Mine have a small light meter, lens hood & extra roll of film in the main cavity, with the Series 6 filters ( G or 25A ) on the sides. Emergency rain poncho & cable release in the front pouch. Aloha, Bill
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I love these little folders. We're on vacation this week and I always take a 532/16 with me. There are few medium format cameras as compact and as good as a nice Super Ikonta. Just for laughs, here is the case I resurrected. The top and bottom threads were all dried up and pulling out so I removed all the thread and used matching color polyester thread to restitch the top leather and the bottom leather to the case. It took a while like I said earlier but was worth it. Then the big problem was the separated front flap. I used soft glove leather purchased from a craft shop and cut a piece that overlapped the tear and fit all the way up to the top of the inside of the cover and an inch below the tear. This was rubber cemented INSIDE the lining and on the back of the flap and top cover. This piece bridged the tear. The fit was great and it was plenty strong but the tear line was still there. Then the brainstorm hit to put a small piece of leather OVER the tear and stitch it in to cover the tear. An old camera strap provided by Jimmy Koh (Thanks buddy) would fit over the tear and give me room to have two rows of stitches.

 

A mock up quickly revealed it would look like a second rate repair. Then it hit me to extend the length of the strap so that it wrapped completely around from the rear flap on one side clear across the tear and butted up against the rear flap on the other side. Approximately 200 holes were drilled into the repair strap each around 3mm apart. Originally I made a template of 15 predrilled holes but this soon proved to be less help than it was worth. I drilled all the holes with a Harbor Freight cheapie dremel type tool and a small drill bit. Then the predrilled strap was held in place and was used as the template to drill all of the holes in the actual case. Having predrilled holes made the stitching go relatively quickly (two hours) but as you may be able to tell, the end result, although far from perfect, is a useful case and one that doesn't look too much like its been repaired.I replaced the camera strap at the same time and used some antique looking hardware I found at the craft store. I'm not totally happy with this aspect of the repair and will continue to look for something more suitable.IMG_5110.JPG.3dda8c611a82839d56b502ba5dfcbe0e.JPG IMG_5111.JPG.88413e829ba99a0327e97d0902cd5b68.JPG

 

Its not easy to tell this was a totally useless case when it arrived with the camera.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I love the Super Ikontas. I've owned a couple of late Bs and a couple of late BXes (BX has the selenium meterr). Currently I own a late BX and it is one of my favorite medium format cameras. I call the Super Ikonta B a "pocket Hasselblad" because I consider its optical quality to be every bit as good.

 

Super Ikontas are not uncommon, but the best of them are. Those with the Compur Rapid shutter and uncoated lens are pretty common. But the best ones are qute a bit harder to find. To me, the best are ones llke the late B shown on the previous page. It has the coated lens and the Synchro Compur shutter. This shutter also has the modern PC flash connector. It took me years before I finally found a late B on eBay at a reasonable price. In fact, I got it for a great price -- $100 and it even came with an original users manual -- and case, of course. The camera had been used seldom over its lifespan -- it's in almost mint condition. Actually, mine's a BX, but I don't mind having the meter. I don't use it, even though it responds to light.

 

super_ikonta_bx_4a.thumb.jpg.4b0737b41b4fbfc639d6e67cb7a7f500.jpg

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