resealing Konica C35

Hi all,

I bought this camera, and noticed that the seals are gummy and flat. However, I took a chance with it, and ended up with badly overexposed images. I've never resealed a camera, so would appreciate some guidance on how to replace them.

Thanks,

........ john

Matt Denton's site has a good tutorial on light seal replacement:

 

Light Seal Replacement - Matt's Classic Cameras

 

There are ready-cut foam seal kits available for some cameras, but I'm not really a fan of them as the adhesive strips are rather easy to damage. I get more mileage out of foam sheets in different thicknesses, and trim them myself. You can buy suitable foam on micro-tools.com and on eBay. Cotton crochet yarn also works well for door seals on some older cameras.

 

Are you sure the overexposure is due to the seals?

m42dave +1

 

I've actually had decent luck with the precut seals though.

Overexposure and light leakage look very different - perhaps post an example?

 

You could try another film with black PVC tape covering the gap between door and body.

Two things to try:

1- with battery installed but no film look at front of camera while releasing shutter. Try varying light levels. The lens has a diamond shaped aperture which you will see if the lens is stopping down. Or you can release shutter while looking through open back of camera and you will see it. If its round all the time the lens is not stopping down.

2- for light leaks find a small LED penlite and turn it own and place inside camera. In a darkened room look for light leaking from camera.

Cotton crochet yarn

Hi Dave,

Cotton crochet yarn? Who'd a thunk it. I'm pretty sure the over exposure is due to the seal. You think that maybe I used the wrong settings? Yes, I guess that could be.

..... john

Overexposure and light leakage look very different - perhaps post an example?

 

You could try another film with black PVC tape covering the gap between door and body.

Hi John,

An excellent idea. I may just try that.

..... john

Hi Dave,

Cotton crochet yarn? Who'd a thunk it. I'm pretty sure the over exposure is due to the seal. You think that maybe I used the wrong settings? Yes, I guess that could be.

..... john

Hi Mike,

Yes, OK. To be honest, I think I started taking pictures before really understanding how the camera works, so that could be the 'real' problem here. I can get the diamond shape you speak of, or circle, by changing the settings, but I really don't understand what I'm doing wrt to how the dials work. It seems to me that the bulb does not work, for I can NOT get it to stay open, no matter what I do. (I've read that this is a common problem with this camera.)

Thanks for the light idea. I'll try that.

..... john

Hi Mike,

Yes, OK. To be honest, I think I started taking pictures before really understanding how the camera works, so that could be the 'real' problem here. I can get the diamond shape you speak of, or circle, by changing the settings, but I really don't understand what I'm doing wrt to how the dials work. It seems to me that the bulb does not work, for I can NOT get it to stay open, no matter what I do. (I've read that this is a common problem with this camera.)

Thanks for the light idea. I'll try that.

..... john

You may want to go to Michael Butkus' ( www.butkus.org ) web site, and get a copy of the C35 owner's manual. They're in PDF format, and all he asks is a small donation for downloading the file(s). I would also check into the battery. C35 uses a PX625 mercury cell, and substituting a silver cell has the opportunity to vary the voltage to the meter; not stating that this is the cause, but it does happen.

Hi Dennis,

Yes, the battery may well be a problem. I am not using the PX625, and the meter barely registers. Tell me. I've heard that the camera will work in some respects without a battery. Is this true?

...... john

Hi Dennis,

Yes, the battery may well be a problem. I am not using the PX625, and the meter barely registers. Tell me. I've heard that the camera will work in some respects without a battery. Is this true?

...... john

John, I'm not very familiar with the C35, never having owned one. I believe though, that the shutter will work on "B" manually.

 

You can get a mercury replacement cell made by Wein, since mercury batteries are no longer available. They use zinc air cells, and are good for about a year. I used to own a Yashica Electro 35 that used mercury cells. The Wein was a perfect replacement.

Hi Dennis,

Thanks again.

..... john

If the meter barely registers that would likely lead to overexposure. With battery installed and ASA set for 400 bright sun around midday should make the meter needle move to or close to the 1/650 at f 14 setting.

The B setting is not as useful as it is on cameras with less automation: at the B setting the lens is wide open. I guess that would still be fine for star trails. Bottom line- if you can get it working, the C35 is a great little camera with a sharp lens.

Hi Mike,

Thanks again. So, getting the meter to work properly is critical to getting the right exposure?

..... john

Another note: the C35 has an automatic flash exposure system that allows one to set guide number so when set accordingly it will adjust guide number as you focus. Even an inexpensive manual flash works great. When my family had a camera shop we usually sold a Sunpak 100 flash to go with the C35. If camera is set for flash daylight photos will overexpose because the shutter is set to 1/25 second.

Overexposure and light leakage look very different - perhaps post an example?

Hi John,

I don't have a sample with me, but the pictures are uniformly washed out. Would this be more typical of overexposure??

........john

Another note: the C35 has an automatic flash exposure system that allows one to set guide number so when set accordingly it will adjust guide number as you focus. Even an inexpensive manual flash works great. When my family had a camera shop we usually sold a Sunpak 100 flash to go with the C35. If camera is set for flash daylight photos will overexpose because the shutter is set to 1/25 second.

Right OK. But the light meter must be working for proper exposure ..... right?

If the meter barely registers that would likely lead to overexposure. With battery installed and ASA set for 400 bright sun around midday should make the meter needle move to or close to the 1/650 at f 14 setting.

The B setting is not as useful as it is on cameras with less automation: at the B setting the lens is wide open. I guess that would still be fine for star trails. Bottom line- if you can get it working, the C35 is a great little camera with a sharp lens.

Hi again,

My 'B' setting (at infinity) does not keep the shutter open, as I believe it's supposed to.

.... john

Edited January 21, 2019 by john_clarke|9

m42dave +1

 

I've actually had decent luck with the precut seals though.

Hi JDMvW,

I wouldn't know where to get them. The only real photo shop near here is Henry's

and they don't sell them.

...... john

I wouldn't know where to get them.

 

The seals were bought on eBay and one set on Amazon. Cost was minimal.

 

(which reminds me that I need to install the seals on a NIkon F2....)

The seals were bought on eBay and one set on Amazon. Cost was minimal.

 

(which reminds me that I need to install the seals on a NIkon F2....)

Thanks,

.... john

john-clarke|9 said

Right OK. But the light meter must be working for proper exposure ..... right?

 

True, but when flash is set the light meter does not function. From what I've read, it sounds like the light meter is not working or not registering accurately.

Hi Mike,

Yes. I don't think it works properly. So, if the meter is barely registering, meaning low battery voltage(?); would this result in over exposures, assuming my settings are right?

(I'm trying to get a handle on whether chasing down the PX625 may solve my problem.)

Thanks,

..... john

Edited January 22, 2019 by john_clarke|9

The Konica C35 light meter is CDS and the meter circuit does not compensate for not having a precise 1.35 volts like the original mercury cells provided. So a weak battery will lead to underexposure while excess voltage (like a 1.55 volt silver oxide) will cause underexposure. However even if the battery has correct voltage the meter could still be inaccurate. If you can get access to a digital multitester check the battery voltage to eliminate the battery issue- it should read from 1.3 to 1.35 volts. For most accurate readings use a meter that has 20,000 ohms/volt sensitivity.

Thanks again Mike. You've been very patient.

I guess the next question is ........ If I tape this baby up, to eliminate light leaks as a possible cause of overexposure, can I set the camera at specific settings that will ensure proper exposure, so that I at least know the camera will work, if I seal it properly and get the right battery?

..... john

P.S. I expect you meant overexposure for one of the underexposures below?

 

The Konica C35 light meter is CDS and the meter circuit does not compensate for not having a precise 1.35 volts like the original mercury cells provided. So a weak battery will lead to underexposure while excess voltage (like a 1.55 volt silver oxide) will cause underexposure. However even if the battery has correct voltage the meter could still be inaccurate. If you can get access to a digital multitester check the battery voltage to eliminate the battery issue- it should read from 1.3 to 1.35 volts. For most accurate readings use a meter that has 20,000 ohms/volt sensitivity.