royall_berndt Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 How could my M3, recently overhauled by Sherry Krauter, proiduce shots such as these? Outdated film? Mistake in processing? These scans accurately reflect the dreadful negs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Farrell Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 What makes you say they are dreadful? The picture of the woman at the table seems to have a full range of tones, from an almost burned out white, to a black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_bowring Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 What exactly do you find dreadful? They look ok to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanford Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 The out of focus parts look a little rough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christopher_a._junker1 Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 What lens was used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royall_berndt Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 In both shots it was a 50mm Summicron, 4th version. The quality of the shot varies with magnification. On a small screen, the shots aren,t bad, but on a larger one, you see a veiling fog and poor redition of detail. It’s like seeing an enlargement from a box camera with a meniscus lens. Film, btw, was Ilford 100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 Out of focus areas like this are precisely why people buy Leicas. If everything must be in focus, use a smaller sensor, like a cell phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Farrell Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 Fog is unlikely to be caused by a camera problem, and poor rendition of detail could be caused by camera shake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 [ATTACH=full]1278827[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1278826[/ATTACH] How could my M3, recently overhauled by Sherry Krauter, proiduce shots such as these? Outdated film? Mistake in processing? These scans accurately reflect the dreadful negs. [ATTACH=full]1278826[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1278827[/ATTACH] Looks to me like a tiny bit of camera shake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 at screen magnification the veiling fog & detail rendition looks just fine. If it is out of kilter in larger enlargements I'd look to processing errors or slight camera shake. Exposure looks good as do tones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royall_berndt Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 Here's a scan closer to actual size. Look at the lack of fine detail and the overall fog. Click to enlarge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 After looking at your crop, I'd say it is in the processing/scanning. I touched it up in GIMP and to me it looks fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Blackwell Images Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 These look fine to me, but as others have surmised, you might have some slight camera shake; this, of course, is not the camera's fault. Try using shutter speeds of no lower than a 30th of a second and squeeze the shutter instead of "pushing" it; you then may be happier with the results. “When you come to a fork in the road, take it ...” – Yogi Berra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uhooru Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Was the lens overhauled as well? Fog is generally either old film, or the lens. Looks like you had the lens pretty wide open, but it looks like you're just referring to the out-of-focus areas that are a result of opening up the lens. Hard to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 With shallow depth of field and relatively slow shutter speeds lots of pictures will be a little 'fuzzy'. Although the reciprocal rule (LINK) is supposed to get you sharp photos, often even faster shutter speeds are needed to achieve the appearance of sharpness. Slow down, focus carefully, don't jab the shutter release, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christopher_a._junker1 Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 As it may be the film and processing, try another roll of 100 or 200 ASA film with good daylight lighting. I'd still use the Summicron with a hood, but bracket shots at f4-f8 which should give you good definition and contrast together with depth of field . I further recommend use of a tripod or a solid surface, not hand held, along with higher shutter speeds and the M3 self timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian1664876441 Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Fog? I doubt the problem is with the camera. Check the lens for haze. Use a lens hood, of not already. You've posted before with problems using outdated film and processing leading to fog. Try switching film and developer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christopher_a._junker1 Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 There are three problem areas that have been mentioned in the above posts: film issues, possible lens problems and camera motion. The further issue of a camera repair problem need not be addressed until the film, development and camera motion issues are resolved. As discussed, the use of a fresh roll of a finer grain film carefully processed, careful operator focusing, lens closed down to the optimum f stop resolution range for a Summicron between f4 and f11 with use of a lens hood on a clean lens, f stop bracketing for correct exposure on a day absent glare sources, using as high a shutter speed as the exposure will allow to reduce or eliminate any camera motion are all techniques you can use to isolate the problem. I would further recommend use of a sturdy tripod or even a table or wall so the camera can't move. The shutter can then be triggered either by a cable release, or if none, by triggering the shutter to eliminate vibration by use of the M3's self timer shutter release. With reference to Sherry K's work, she has done both an M3 CLA and a Leica CL meter repair and body internals repair and update. She also sold me a 35 Summaron R f2.8 version 1 which is a wonderful wide angle lens. I wouldn't hesitate to send her additional work. However I hope your problems can be resolved as set forth by all the posters leading to full enjoyment of your M3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royall_berndt Posted January 26, 2019 Author Share Posted January 26, 2019 There are three problem areas that have been mentioned in the above posts: film issues, possible lens problems and camera motion. The further issue of a camera repair problem need not be addressed until the film, development and camera motion issues are resolved. As discussed, the use of a fresh roll of a finer grain film carefully processed, careful operator focusing, lens closed down to the optimum f stop resolution range for a Summicron between f4 and f11 with use of a lens hood on a clean lens, f stop bracketing for correct exposure on a day absent glare sources, using as high a shutter speed as the exposure will allow to reduce or eliminate any camera motion are all techniques you can use to isolate the problem. I would further recommend use of a sturdy tripod or even a table or wall so the camera can't move. The shutter can then be triggered either by a cable release, or if none, by triggering the shutter to eliminate vibration by use of the M3's self timer shutter release. With reference to Sherry K's work, she has done both an M3 CLA and a Leica CL meter repair and body internals repair and update. She also sold me a 35 Summaron R f2.8 version 1 which is a wonderful wide angle lens. I wouldn't hesitate to send her additional work. However I hope your problems can be resolved as set forth by all the posters leading to full enjoyment of your M3. I found the negatives for this set of shots. The film was Fuji Acros 100. The negatives are somewhat flat. I do find evidence of underexposure in some frames. So it appears the problem was in the processing and somewhat in the scanning--except where I underexposed. . The frame of the girl above was underexposed, for example; that's why the dress is less than white--it was a bright white in reality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christopher_a._junker1 Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 I've never shot Fuji Acros 100, is it known for wide exposure latitude? Some films are more tolerant of overexposure than underexposure, Acros may be one of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royall_berndt Posted January 29, 2019 Author Share Posted January 29, 2019 I will shoot the Acros next time at ASA 64. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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