How could it?

How could my M3, recently overhauled by Sherry Krauter, proiduce shots such as these? Outdated film? Mistake in processing? These scans accurately reflect the dreadful negs.

[ATTACH=full]1278827[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1278826[/ATTACH] How could my M3, recently overhauled by Sherry Krauter, proiduce shots such as these? Outdated film? Mistake in processing? These scans accurately reflect the dreadful negs.

 

[ATTACH=full]1278826[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1278827[/ATTACH]

Looks to me like a tiny bit of camera shake.

After looking at your crop, I'd say it is in the processing/scanning.

I touched it up in GIMP and to me it looks fine

These look fine to me, but as others have surmised, you might have some slight camera shake; this, of course, is not the camera's fault.

Try using shutter speeds of no lower than a 30th of a second and squeeze the shutter instead of "pushing" it; you then may be happier with the results.

With shallow depth of field and relatively slow shutter speeds lots of pictures will be a little 'fuzzy'.

Although the reciprocal rule (LINK) is supposed to get you sharp photos, often even faster shutter speeds are needed to achieve the appearance of sharpness.

Slow down, focus carefully, don't jab the shutter release, etc.

Fog?

I doubt the problem is with the camera. Check the lens for haze. Use a lens hood, of not already.

You've posted before with problems using outdated film and processing leading to fog. Try switching film and developer.

There are three problem areas that have been mentioned in the above posts: film issues, possible lens problems and camera motion. The further issue of a camera repair problem need not be addressed until the film, development and camera motion issues are resolved. As discussed, the use of a fresh roll of a finer grain film carefully processed, careful operator focusing, lens closed down to the optimum f stop resolution range for a Summicron between f4 and f11 with use of a lens hood on a clean lens, f stop bracketing for correct exposure on a day absent glare sources, using as high a shutter speed as the exposure will allow to reduce or eliminate any camera motion are all techniques you can use to isolate the problem. I would further recommend use of a sturdy tripod or even a table or wall so the camera can't move. The shutter can then be triggered either by a cable release, or if none, by triggering the shutter to eliminate vibration by use of the M3's self timer shutter release.

With reference to Sherry K's work, she has done both an M3 CLA and a Leica CL meter repair and body internals repair and update. She also sold me a 35 Summaron R f2.8 version 1 which is a wonderful wide angle lens. I wouldn't hesitate to send her additional work. However I hope your problems can be resolved as set forth by all the posters leading to full enjoyment of your M3.

There are three problem areas that have been mentioned in the above posts: film issues, possible lens problems and camera motion. The further issue of a camera repair problem need not be addressed until the film, development and camera motion issues are resolved. As discussed, the use of a fresh roll of a finer grain film carefully processed, careful operator focusing, lens closed down to the optimum f stop resolution range for a Summicron between f4 and f11 with use of a lens hood on a clean lens, f stop bracketing for correct exposure on a day absent glare sources, using as high a shutter speed as the exposure will allow to reduce or eliminate any camera motion are all techniques you can use to isolate the problem. I would further recommend use of a sturdy tripod or even a table or wall so the camera can't move. The shutter can then be triggered either by a cable release, or if none, by triggering the shutter to eliminate vibration by use of the M3's self timer shutter release.

 

With reference to Sherry K's work, she has done both an M3 CLA and a Leica CL meter repair and body internals repair and update. She also sold me a 35 Summaron R f2.8 version 1 which is a wonderful wide angle lens. I wouldn't hesitate to send her additional work. However I hope your problems can be resolved as set forth by all the posters leading to full enjoyment of your M3.

I found the negatives for this set of shots. The film was Fuji Acros 100. The negatives are somewhat flat. I do find evidence of underexposure in some frames. So it appears the problem was in the processing and somewhat in the scanning--except where I underexposed. . The frame of the girl above was underexposed, for example; that's why the dress is less than white--it was a bright white in reality.