Minolta XD-11 Random Questions

<p>Hi I just got my Minolta XD-11 and have a few questions.</p>

 

<ol>

<li>Do I leave the battery in even if I plan on not using the camera for 7+ days?</li>

<li>The View Finder has black specks when viewing. Is there a way to clean this and will the black specks come out in photos?</li>

<li>When in any of the modes and I view the LED Light Meter it will sometimes light up two red dots next to indicate the correct shutter/aperture speed. In automatic modes can I ignore this or do I need to make sure only one red dot is light up? Is it the same situation for manual mode?</li>

<li>To do a double exposure I know you hold the bottom button down and advance the lever, but should I be setting the Exposure Adjustment Control to -1 for each photo to properly expose?</li>

<li>Name up to 3 amazing lenses to use for the XD-11 (MD lenses)</li>

<li>Will the Vivitar 283 Flash work with this camera?</li>

<li>When taking a long exposure or using the self-timer it advises to shut the View Finder with the lever. So I find the correct exposure in M or A mode and then shut the View Finder and take the photo, correct?</li>

<li>Would love an explanation of how to use the Depth of Field preview.</li>

<li>How can I remove the straps from the camera and put my own one on? The leather is ripping and I want to replace it. Here's a picture for reference: http://i.imgur.com/bIFD3wW.jpg</li>

</ol>

<p>Wow, sorry for all the questions, need all the help I can get! Thank you so much.</p>

<p>I can briefly answer a few of the questions.<br>

The battery can remain in for a 7 day stretch. I would remove if the idle time were going to be a month or more.<br>

The black specks should only be in the finder, should not affect pictures. Unfortunately, if they are not on the exterior surface of the finder, they would require stripdown to remove.<br>

The shutter is infinitely variable, so the two lights mean the computer in the camera has chosen a speed somewhere between the two. Don't fuss with trying to get only one lit. Exposure will be correct.<br>

Interesting question about altering the exposure control if doing double exposure. I'd leave that to more experienced photographers to answer.<br>

Minolta lenses are Pretty darned good, so I would stick with the brand. I have had tremendous luck with Tamron Adaptall lenses, and they give you versatility of adding mounts to change if you decide to go with another system. Mounts can however be difficult to find.<br>

Not sure about the V283. See if you can pick up an instruction book for it.<br>

You can focus, shut the viewfinder, and simply push the shutter release. Camera will expose correctly, without adding light through the finder.<br>

A general Photography book will explain DOF. The XD11 manual should explain how to activate it on that particular camera.<br>

You can cut the existing straps off, and simply attach your new strap to the eyelets that you leave in place. The rings are finicky to get a strap on by worming it through. IMO, better to look for a strap that clips on to the triangular rings without worming one through</p>

<p>"Do I leave the battery in even if I plan on not using the camera for 7+ days?"<br />Yes. A battery can stay in for years as long as you take a look every now and then (maybe once a year) to be sure it has not leaked or corroded.<br>

"The View Finder has black specks when viewing. Is there a way to clean this and will the black specks come out in photos?"<br />They will not affect the photos. You are likely to do more damage than good in trying to clearn them. Leave them alone.<br /><br /><br>

"Will the Vivitar 283 Flash work with this camera?"<br />Yes.<br>

"When taking a long exposure or using the self-timer it advises to shut the View Finder with the lever. So I find the correct exposure in M or A mode and then shut the View Finder and take the photo, correct?"<br />Correct</p>

 

<p>10. There's a black speck on the mirror when I take the lens off. It's one tiny little speck that I'm tempted to clean with a Q-Tip. This is not the same specks I see in the View Finder. Will the speck on the mirror appear in photos and is cleaning it a bad idea?<br>

11. I heard there's a fully automatic mode on the camera if you set the aperture to the green number, shutter speed to 125, and turn on Shutter-Priority Mode. Is it true this will make fully automatic correct exposures?<br>

And lastly, when I'm talking about the two red LEDs lights lighting up next to the shutter/aperture I now know it will be okay on the Automatic modes, but what about when this happens on Manual mode? I set the aperture and then the film speed will sometimes have two lights next to it, do I need to make sure only one is lit up in Manual mode? Will one shutter speed be better than the other when two lights appear?</p>

<p>For the speck on the mirror, use a puff of air from a bulb type blower. If that doesn't do it, I'd use a tip of a soft tissue to gently coax it to move while blowing it again. NO CANNED AIR.<br>

You need a copy of the manual. Available for a donation on <a href="http://www.butkus.org">www.butkus.org</a></p>

<p>I have a copy of the manual and have read it twice already! My biggest concern thus far is the Manual Mode two lights lighting next to shutter speed to use; I'm confused as to if I need to have one red dot only or two will be okay. You made it clear to me that in the two Automatic Modes it's fine to have both light up, but unclear about Manual Mode.</p>

<p>Usually on cameras which have LED lights, when two lights show up next to the shutter speed/s in the manual mode, it means that either the shutter speed dial has been set between two distinct shutter speeds, the aperture selection ring may need a slight twist, or there may be a malfunction in the circuitry. I'd check to make sure you have the shutter speed selection dial properly centered. If so, I'd then rotate the aperture ring and see if that changes things to only one shutter speed. If neither of these changes it, then there is usually circuitry error of some sort.</p>

<p>When you mention requesting up to 3 amazing MD lenses - you haven't given any indication of focal length, potential use, prime or zoom, or budget. But here goes: Rokkor 24/2.8, 50/3.5 macro, 70-210/f4 zoom. There are others which also qualify, but some are special purpose lenses, or quite expensive highly sought after ones.</p>

<p>Stephen - It's definitely not a circuitry error because it does only happen when the aperture is between two stops. So I slightly rotate the ring like you say and it fixes the problem. But if I move the camera around pointing at a slightly different spot (and the light changes) it will still show me two dots on the LED. It's not like I'm moving the camera around much only about an inch..</p>

<p>In manual mode if 2 lights light up at the same time you can set the aperture in between stop to make the correct light lights up only. The shutter speed can not be set in between stop.</p>

<p>Hi Jared - even slightly moving the camera changes the amount of light being metered, and what you describe is normal...so glad to hear all is well. Now go out and take some pictures and enjoy your new acquisition.</p>

<p>Great!</p>

<p>Now when I use the Vivitar 283 flash on the camera do I need to plug the cable from the flash into the X-sync terminal? I used the flash on the SRT-101 (No hot shoe) and had to plug it in, not sure if its different..</p>

<p>The 283 has a hot shoe connection as does the XD-11, so if you are using the flash on-camera the answer is no. But if you were using he flash off-camera, the answer is yes.</p>

<p>Your camera can use either MD or MC lenses. The later MD lenses will allow you to take advantage of the Shutter Priority automation which the XD-11 offers. The older MC lenses will work in Manual and Aperture Priority modes but not in Shutter Priority mode. For this reason the MC lenses are often less expensive than the MD ones. Some additional lens suggestions: 35/2.8 MD, 100/2.5 MC or MD, 200/3.5 MC Rokkor-X [there was no 200/3.5 MD version - only a 200/4 and a much more expensive 200/2.8], 100/3.5 Macro MC or MD [there is a later 100/4 MD but it makes focusing more dim]. </p>

<p>Do any of you old timers (myself included) remember when this stuff was such a mystery. Great to see someone getting into it.</p>

<p>Stephen - You say on-camera and off-camera flash. Can you explain the difference?</p>

The 283 flash sync voltage on older ones may be high enough to cause problems with the dedicated circuitry in the XD-

11. The 28-85 and 35-135 zooms (both f3.5-4.5 MD) are good lenses.

<blockquote>

<p>Do any of you old timers (myself included) remember when this stuff was such a mystery. Great to see someone getting into it.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I don't remember that these stuff ever been a mystery. The XD-11 was rather advanced at the time but it was no mystery. I still remembered when it was introduced.</p>

<p>Jared, "on camera" means the flash sync contact on the bottom of the flash is used in contact with the flash terminal on the hot shoe of the camera. "Off camera" means the flash cord must be used, plugged into the x-sync termnal on the camera.</p>

<p>The standard off-camera cable that comes with the 283 is pretty short, so in order to maximize its usefulness, you'll probably want to get an extension cable, which will allow you to position the flash well away from the camera. This can be handy for controlling the way shadows fall on or around your subject.</p>

<p>The 283 has its own thyristor circuitry, which does a good job of handling exposure. It can be varied by rotating the knob on the front of the flash, depending on the speed of the lens being used.</p>

<p>As for dealing with LEDs where two are lit simultaneously, this probably means that you're either 1/2 or 1/3 stop away from correct exposure. You should be able to confirm this by slightly moving the aperture ring. If you're shooting print film, this is well within a film's latitude, so no worries. If you're shooting slide film, even in that case 1//2 to 1/3 stop will probably not ruin a slide. But to be sure, just move the camera around slightly and pay attention to the bright areas in the frame, because these are what's causing your camera's meter readout to fluctuate. Then evaluate for yourself how important these bright areas are, keeping in mind that, if you let the meter be affected too much by them, you'll wind up with an underexposed slide. So, with slides at least, it's better to pay attention to the shadows if that's where your subject lies, and let the highlight areas blow out.</p>

<p> </p>

When traveling with the XD-11 set the shutter to "o" which is the mechanically governed speed of 1/100 sec. The greater

shutter button travel makes it less likely you will accidentally drain the battery if pressure on shutter release lights the

viewfinder LEDs. Or to be certain you can remove the battery. FWIW I've owned an XD-5 (an 11 w/o viewfinder blind and

never had battery drain issues. Herbert Keppler warned of it in an early test.

I think there might be an issue with the camera. the first

set of brand new batteries already died after one night of

storage. nothing was leaning on the shutter to make the

LEDs stay on. I also find it very hard to see the LEDs in

the daylight when it's bright since it's so faint. is it

supposed to be a very strong red color?

<p> Stephen Lewis, posted, May 04, 2016; 08:44 p.m.<br>

The 283 has a hot shoe connection as does the XD-11 . . . </p>

 

Hmmm . . That is not the correct way to say what he means.

The 283, has a hot "Foot" and the XD-11 has a "hot shoe".

Rember, a foot goes into a shoe. Two feet can't connect, and neither can two shoes, at least not directly.

<blockquote>

<p>Do any of you old timers (myself included) remember when this stuff was such a mystery. Great to see someone getting into it.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I don't remember that these stuff ever been a mystery. The XD-11 was rather advanced at the time but it was no mystery. I still remembered when it was introduced.</p>

By the time I could afford the XD most mysteries had been solved with my trusty SRT101