new to medium format - new Bronica SQ-ai system, curious how easiest way to do close-up work for fun

Hi, I am new to this forum and also to medium format. I just

purchased a Bronica SQ-ai, with 80 and 150mm lens. I am

loaded with questions but for now I am just wondering what

would be the least expensive and quickest way to experiment a

bit with close up work. I don't want to make anymore big

purchases at present - the equipment is fine for my work but I

want to "play" with closeup. Any ideas would be appreciated.

thanks

 

Wendy Rombough

 

www.wendyr.com

Least expensive starting point would be a screw-in close-up lens. It goes on the front of either of your two existing lenses -- something like a screw-in filter. They're made by several manufacturers. For example, B&H sells a "Macro Explorer Lens Set" by Raynox for about $70, which I would describe as the low end of pricing for new gear. I can't vouch for the quality of the images you'll get from these add-on lenses, but many contributors to this site like them a lot.

 

After using screw-in lenses in 35mm for a while, I elected to use extension tubes for my Bronica GS-1 system. They're more expensive (used in good condition for $180-250) than the screw-in lenses, but I like the quality of the images better. Top of the line would be a bellows system -- definitely not within the budgetary range you describe.

 

Good luck.

I'm not sure what filter sizes the Bronica 80 and 150 mm lenses take, but your cheapest option would be to use a close up +ve diopter lens that screws into the filter thread. The single element ones are not very good optically (but are cheap). Two element achromatic ones are available from Nikon in 62 mm filter thread. Sigma also used to make a 58 mm version. Canon may also still make them but I'm not sure about the filter sizes. Zeiss Proxar lenses may also work if you can get an appropriate adaptor. To a reasonable approximation with the lens set at infinity and the close up lens in place the focussed distance (in meters) will be equal to the reciprocal of the lens power in diopters.

E.G. a 2 diopter lens will give a distance of 1/2 m (this will be the maximum focussing distance with the lens in place). Of couse you can still use the focussing mount normally to get closer still. These close-up lenses have the advantage that you will not need to increase exposure due to lens extension.

 

Another option would be to find used extension tubes for your sytem. Optically this is usually a better option although the achromatic close-up lenses are acceptable for some purposes (if they are available in the correct size for your lenses). I would not recommend them for copying however, as the field will not be very flat.

I agree completely that close-up lenses are the way for you to start. Check the filter sizes on both lenses; if one is larger, get a set of close-up lenses to fit it, along with a stepdown ring for the other lens.

 

Your 80mm lens will yield greater magnification, but will force you into shorter working distances which may spook some critters or interfere with lighting. The 150mm lens will let you back off to a more comfortable distance, but at the expense of magnification.

 

Regarding image quality, extension tubes will do just a bit better up to a reproduction ratio of 1:1 or so (where the length of the tube equals the focal length of the lens). Beyond that, you will likely get better quality from the close-up lenses. Not to worry; the difference is small and either way, you will be delighted with the results.

 

You will have to get used to extremely shallow depth of field. Nothing you can do about that. Of course, you will want to stop down the aperture, but avoid the smallest one or two settings (f/32, f/22) because they induce enough diffraction distortion to degrade image quality noticeably. Flash will be a big help because it eliminates the need for long exposures. Finally, use a tripod and cable release to maximize image quality. Once you get used to those "rules," you will have a lot of fun learning to see things from a new perspective.

 

If you get more curious about technique, check Alibris or Bibliofind to get a copy of "A Manual of Close-Up Photography" by Lester Lefkowitz. Among the many reasons I like his book is that he takes great pains to demonstrate the things I've mentioned, along with much, much more.

Wendy,

 

I used a set of Hoya Multicoated Supplimentary Close-up Lenses with my SQA for a number of years and they worked perfectly well. I had Nos.1 2 3 & 4 (67mm). If you decide to give it a go, try a No.2 first with your 80mm lens, stop-down to f16 or f22 and try to keep the light source behind the camera. Little or no exposure compensation is necessary. You'll be pleasantly surprised.

When I say behind the camera, I obviously don't mean right-behind the camera. Above and to one side, or preferably, both sides.

You don't say, Wendy, how close you want to get. For simply focusing closer than the PS80 and PS150 allow the 1 or 2 diopter close up lenses will work well. If you are getting in .5:1 or 1:1 magnification ratio I doubt the close up lenses are going to satisfy you. Normal lenses generally don't work well at this magnification, although I would like to hear from other Bronica users of their experience with either of these lenses at 1:1. Is the quality acceptable or should I hold out for the 110/4.5 macro lens?

Dave,

 

You obviously won't get down to 1:1 with Sup C.U. lenses or 5-times life-size (5:1)even with a Bellows. Did you mean 1:5. I'm just looking at a leaflet now for PE105 & PS110 f4.5 (1:1) Macro lenses, which focus from 1:1 life-size to infinity and Bronica don't recommend using any accessories with these (Tubes or Bellows). I don't think Wendy wants to spend £1,000 just yet anyway.

If you are (sometime in the future) interested in the PS 110mm f/4.5 macro, you may find this post useful:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000Txp

 

Enjoy

John, My intention above was to indicate that close up lenses would not be particularly satisfactory at half life size(.5) to life size, a range that someone interested in flowers or something might find themselves requiring when using a 2-1/4 system.