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developing one roll of film in a two roll tank, and rinse question


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  • 2 weeks later...

@sixtyforty Spinning is easier and cleaner, but as you see it depends on personal taste (and some people have reasons that go beyond taste). I use a Paterson tank. Is your tank similar to it? Paterson’s are designed to spin agitation. They are not hermetic so inversion is not possible without doing a mess. I use the included stick to agitate gently. First 30 seconds of the first minute, and then 5 seconds every 30 (with the stick, this means 2 turns in one direction and 2 in the opposite one). Alternatively, if you prefer so or you lost the stick, you can just spin the tank on the table, just on the surface, without even lifting it (in fact, this is what a couple of Photography professors here taught me, but I prefer the stick, and there weren't sticks in their classes!).

 

I have only used Paterson tanks or similar, so my recommendation only applies to this kind of tank.

 

No squeegee. The Law of Gravitation does the work. Safer and easier. I still haven’t had problems in terms of water marks.

 

Kodak recommendation is 1,5ml of Photoflo every 300 ml, but I just used 1 ml (well, that is what the pipette says, I don’t know for sure, a syringe should be more precise), and some people use less. A bit sudsy is normal. One minute bath, first half moving the roll softly. After a good water rinse, of course. And then directly hang the tip when the film is still in the reel, open the reel (if that is possible in yours), and extend the film down to the floor, all this with much care. If you have a cabinet for drying, too much better.

 

I am not an expert, almost as novice as you, but that is what I have been doing. You have to find your technique and stick with it, unless there is a reason to change.

 

 

I developed 9 3/4 minutes @ 68 F (D-76 1-1) for my two rolls but them I read today on someones blog that that time is only for one roll and I should have added 10% time for the two rolls I developed? Is this true?

 

Do you have experience seeing negatives? Did you compare the negs processed by you with other negs? Do your processed negatives looks good, not thin?

 

In my opinion (and in other people’s opinion), with Kodak recommendations for TRI-x and D-76 you get very thin negatives. At 68ºF, I develop for 12 minutes.

Edited by Fiodor
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@sixtyforty The mark of the first scan is because of too much curbing of the film, I think (it happened to me). It’s great that this anti Newton glass worked fine. Now I have a question for you. I also have an Epson v500, but I only used it with the original plastic holder. Do you see a difference in sharpness in the whole image, in all images, even if they were flat? Do you have some flat (or nearly flat) negative to make a comparison (with and without the glass)?

 

What type/brand is the glass? Is it inserted in the original holder, or how is it?

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