Hammerheads - why would you?

So, there I am in the dark with a strap over my shoulder supporting a heavy power pack, a camera strap around my neck, a thick 2m of cable nearly tripping me up and what felt like a hundredweight of camera, lens, bracket and Metz 60CT-4 in both hands - and I'm thinking 'Did we really put up with this back in the day?'

 

The reason I cocooned myself in a mess of Metz was to see if it really provided any more reach than a hotshoe speedlight. Well, yes, it did. To the tune of one whole stop!

Really? All that trouble for one lousy stop?

 

I was repeating my "neighbour's rooftop" test that I'd done a couple of days previously using a Nikon SB-800. I got the same exposure at 400 ISO from the 60CT as I got at 800 ISO from the Nikon speedlight.

 

Well, maybe the Metz will perform better in a more practical situation I thought, as I dragged all that kit into my living room.

 

Errr, nope. Using bounced flash I got the same exposure and coverage from the Metz at f/8 and 100 ISO as I did with the SB-800 at f/6.3 and 100 ISO.

 

One stop! Just one poxy, miserable stop - and the CT60 took about twice as long to recycle. Cheeses!

 

So the question remains: Why would you?

I gave up on the hammerheads a long time ago. That, and the battery packs that I lugged around with them. I owned almost every model of Honeywell Strobonar at one time or another. The same went for my Quantum Turbo Flash, along with my Lumedynes and my Armatar LR200. Too much weight, along with Mamiya 645's and film backs. Don't miss them at all.

 

Thanks for the miseries! :D:D:D

Just to make you feel better, I had one, pretty sure it was Metz in the late '50's - wet cell, built in strap, battery case the size of a lunchbox - hand me down from my Dad. Did the job, and quick recycle for the time, but as you said - awkward & quite a burden. I didn't use it long, then it failed - had come from Germany, so no reasonable repair options. Hadn't thought of it in years - can't recall what I did with it.

I still use my Metz CL-4 quite often and on multiple bodies from RF to TLR, film to digital...no external battery pack though - it's reliable and always given perfect results. I trust it much more than my hotshoe flashes.

Funny thing, I was going to get post something to the contrary(not prompted by this post).

 

Thanksgiving day, I was walking around the house with my D3 and an SB-800. Since the ceilings are white and are "normal height" in all but one room(the exception has a high vaulted ceiling). Those are what I'd consider pretty much ideal bounce conditions.

 

I found myself frustrated with the overall less than stellar light quality from the SB-800, and I wasn't happy with the amount of front "catch" light from the built in bounce card. Plus, 2-3 shots in 5 seconds would drain the capacitor, and waiting for it to recharge seemed to take an eternity(admittedly, I should have used the 5th cell adapter).

 

I pulled out my Metz 76 MZ-5, which is a relatively modern unit that does iTTL(with the Nikon shoe, of course-and other advanced modes with shoes for other makes). Although I DO have a shoulder pack for this, it can run entirely on a battery hat fits in the handle, and that's what I used it with. I didn't think to use it until the last minute, and I used it the rest of the day with the "low battery" icon flashing.

 

From my perspective, even though it was uncomfortable to use, it was a night and day difference. For one thing, having a separate forward-facing flash tube is miles ahead a bounce card, although my SB-16(I think that's the number at least-the one I have does TTL with an F3 and has an F3 shoe on it). Also, I had to try to run the capacitor all the way down, and when I did it seemed to come back up almost immediately. I didn't do any formal testing, but I'd say that the claimed 2 stops difference is real.

 

I also use a 60 CT-4 with my Hasselblad. Yes, carrying the shoulder pack is a pain but you can't beat the recycle time and yes it does throw a lot of good quality light. I was able to get a new battery from B&H back in the spring.

I do love the 60CT4's UI. - One huge exception: The power on switch should have a serious safety catch, to avoid sending the Dryfit battery to heaven by deep discharging it on the march when the flash gets turned on by accident inside the luggage.

Not sure about the neighbor's rooftop test / apples & oranges. The Metz has a fixed 35mm FOV reflector. Hotshoe units tend to make better use of their output by narrowing down their beam further.

I can't comment on recharging times. Its been a long while since I killed my 2nd Dryfit battery. After that I switched to a NiCd pack and replaced the cells inside once.

With an external PSU recharge times seemed fine.

Sure, I've never been enthusiastic about carrying the Metz everywhere everyday. OTOH: It was a great thing, back when

• NiCd AAs were just 0.4Ah and needed to be changed frequently
  
• TTL providing camera brand hotshoe flashes were 2 stops weaker.
  
• Barely anything else provided that many aperture choices for auto modes
  
• other units couldn't be dialed down that nicely in manual mode.
  

Today we are older and weaker. AA batteries improved a lot; 2Ah even in the convenient Eneloops. Higher ISO with digital needs less power and the Metz became obsolete tech, since it can't be adapted to do with pre-flash TTL with digitals.

I guess TTL compatible portable monolights or head & generator packs with LED modeling light took its place in the modern world?

Ben, if you really need the forward-facing sub flash, Nissin's Di866 provides one. It also measures a tad higher output than Nikon's speedlights - GN 32 versus 28 for the same 50mm 'zoom' setting.

 

I really don't see, or measure, anything like 2 stops difference between the likes of an SB-800 and the 60CT series Metzs. Plus, if you're fond of a shoulder pack, adding a lightweight SD-8a to the SB-800 brings its full-power to full-power recycle time down to a pretty unbeatable 2 seconds.

 

The aging batteries in my 60CT packs take in the region of 10 seconds to recycle. And I'm sick of taking the darn things apart to re-cell them. Whereas a new pack of AA rechargeables can be got off-the-shelf almost anywhere, and for relatively little money.

 

The supposed increase in power (over a good speedlight) is similar with Sunpak and Osram/Cullman's hammerhead range too. Basically there is none, or at most one stop. The leisurely recycle time remains.

 

The only real advantage I can see is that they don't overheat quite so readily because of the sheer size of the tube and reflector assembly. And the fact that the recycle time slows things down.

 

BTW, another solution to the catchlight sub-flash issue is to use the camera's popup and have the main flash P-C connected on a bracket - for that authentic 1950s press-guy look and feel.

Edited November 26, 2018 by rodeo_joe|1

Joe,

 

In my specific example, I'm not exactly sure that you're drawing a fair comparison since the 60 series Metz flashes-even the newer ones-are designs right out of the 70s while I'm talking about a mid-2000s design-or in other words a design roughly contemporary to the SB-800.

 

The 76 MZ-5 is basically comparable feature wise to something between an SB-600 and SB-800. With the Nikon shoe fitted, it does plain auto flash, film TTL, dTTL, and iTTL along with manual(it doesn't have the reverse GN mode of the SB-800, which I think is kind of gimicky). It also has a power zoom head that tracks the zoom setting-again more in line with an SB-600 or SB-800, and not like the old 60 series Metz flashes.

 

The next chance I get, I'll get out my flash meter and measure "real" GNs from it vs. the SB-600 and SB-800. I don't know the value of the flash capacitor, but if it's less powerful then Metz lost their marbles when they designed the thing since the flash tube is larger and it's fed from a much more potent source(it's either 8 or 9 NiMH AAs in the handle pack vs. 4 or 5 AA-sized batteries in SB-800).

 

Also, there's the fact that intuitively, the larger flash head vs. the SB-800 should made a difference in the quality of the light output, and in real world experience I prefer the shots I get from it. Showing photos from the other day to some folks in the family, I got positive feedback on the light quality from the Metz vs. the SB-800(this was from someone who wasn't there, and I just pulled up a couple of similar photos for side-by-sides and asked if they noticed anything different-the two non-photographer folks who looked at them DID notice a difference, and preferred the shots taken with the Metz).

 

I'll also just mention that yes, I am a bit of a biased Metz snob. For anything where I don't have a dedicated flash, my go-to "auto" shoe mount flash for a long time has been a Metz 36 CT-3. This is an 80s four-cell flash with a bounce/swivel/zoom head and has a rated ISO 100 GN of 118ft(36m, hence the name) at the "normal" zoom setting, which covers a 45mm lens for 35mm. I've been meaning to hunt down a Nikon shoe for it, as that would give me both TTL and couple auto aperture on cameras that support it.

I wanted to resurrect my old Strobonar 800, but no 510v rechargable battery :(

I like the 800 compared to the Sunpak, as the Sunpak 611 and 612 are HEAVY, compared to the Strobonar 800. It is all the DC circuitry in the flash that adds weight in the wrong place, in my hands. I preferred the weight on a separate battery on a strap, so I would not have to hold up the extra weight. This makes a difference how tired my arm was, on a long shoot.

 

Today I use a Nikon SB24 on a CustomBracket flash bracket.

I use a Quantum Turbo or Lumedyne Megacycler. Having gotten used to FAST recyling, I get ticked off when I loose shots because I did not use the HV battery pack.

....and has a rated ISO 100 GN of 118ft(36m, hence the name)

 

Like all 'rated' GNs, it'll be a lie.

I've yet to see the methodology laid down by the ISO, but I suspect it doesn't exclude use of a small white or mirrored corridor for the testing.

Knocking one whole stop off the maker's guide number usually gets you close to what a flashmeter shows, or what you simply get from chimping to a decently bright result.

 

The old Metz 45CT series measure as having a GN around 30, while the 60CTs measure at a GN of 45! They also have a much cooler CT than a modern speedlight and either need tweaking in post or a custom balance setting.

 

I'm sure your modern 76 MZ-5 is an improvement on that, but it cost you, what? The new price was pretty eye-watering, and even a replacement battery pack will set you back £80 ($120).

 

I'm pretty sure a Gogox 120 would better it on output and quality of light.

 

Two YongNuo 560s or similar on a bracket will easily equal the light output of almost any hammerhead, and they're going to be more flexible in use and probably lighter in weight - certainly in cost.

 

The quality of bounce light you get is very dependant on exactly where you bounce the light from, and a couple of degrees more or less tilt can make a world of difference. The source flash used isn't quite so important as where you point it.

Edited November 27, 2018 by rodeo_joe|1

I wanted to resurrect my old Strobonar 800, but no 510v rechargable battery :(

 

- If it's anything like the Sunpak rechargable 510v battery replacement, you can easily replace the cells in it.

 

My Sunpak had 10 tag-ended AA NiCds in it, with pathetic capacities of 500 mAH. I replaced them with 1500 mAH ones, which greatly enhanced the number of shots. Unfortunately it also greatly extended the time to recharge, and required the thing to be connected to the mains for a good 24 hours!

 

A speedlight and a pocketful of AAs is the way to go IMO.

I'm sure your modern 76 MZ-5 is an improvement on that, but it cost you, what? The new price was pretty eye-watering, and even a replacement battery pack will set you back £80 ($120).

 

A $50 box of Metz flashes at the local camera store that included it along with the shoulder pack, a complete 60 CT-4 set-up, and one of the secondary auxiliary hammerheads that will run off the 60 CT-4 system.

 

I had to re-cell the handle battery pack in the 76 MZ-5, but it was a quick and clean job with AA NiMHs with solder tabs on them. The single most expensive addition to that purchase was a new Dry-Fit battery for the 60 CT-4, which I think was around $60.

A $50 box of Metz flashes at the local camera store that included it along with the shoulder pack, a complete 60 CT-4 set-up, and one of the secondary auxiliary hammerheads that will run off the 60 CT-4 system.

 

- Congratulations, that was a real bargain! But I think the low price tells something about the popularity of those brutes.

I have used the Metz 45-CT1, 60CT2 and now 60CT4. I don't have problem with them.

I have used the Metz 45-CT1, 60CT2 and now 60CT4. I don't have problem with them.

 

- It depends what you mean by a 'problem'. Sure, they work. But if you actually measure or practically compare their light output, you'll see that a 45CT is barely more powerful than any top-line hotshoe speedlight, and the 60CT offers only 1 stop more light. That's all.

 

And when it comes to recycle times, convenience and exposure modes offered, those old hammerheads just can't compete.

I used the Metz 402 and then the 45 and 60 series. They are old technology and not ideal but still usable. The weight and bulk were not a big deal when the camera was already big and heavy.

Sure, they were OK back in their day, and built to last. My first professional flash was a Metz hammerhead, and was already a used item then. It had a pathetic output by today's standards, with no automation or power variation. Just 'Pop! - take it or leave it'.

 

But times change. You can still strangle yourself in straps and brackets and carry 5 times more weight in gear than absolutely necessary, but as I previously asked - Why would you?

"- Why would you?"

 

Because the quality of the light is a lot better ! If you compare a Studio light with a Speed light which one do you thing is going to win ? I would not give up my hammer head flash units for anything. I have 2 x (45 CT 4), 1(50 MZ5) 1(70 Mz5) 1(60 CT 4) purchased all used from eBay for almost nothing . I had a Metz 76 which I purchased brand new($800), but the capacitors blew out on me after being in storage for too long. All the other ones did fine.

 

look, I love Speed Lights for their convenience, but after spending $500+ on 3 speed lights, it leaves me with a bad taste in my mouth. One day I was happily testing my Canon 580EX II ($550) speed light I had just purchased, when I decided to compared those pictures with the same pictures i had also taken with a lowly 20 year old Metz 45 CT 4.

 

Wow what a difference, the quality of the light was so much better ! I had better contrast, the light was more consistent since I was mostly shooting manual/auto thyristor, I was avoiding the pit falls of light-fall off which happens often with the speed lights, no funny tints, fast recycle time, less shadows, plenty of power to bounce.

 

Don't get me wrong, Speed Lights are OK if you are only shooting in Manual mode with occasional TTL. However, if you decide to leave the Flash on TTL during an event, may the Photo Gods be with you ! As far as convenience, you have to attach a bunch of modifiers and/or a flash-bracket anyway, so the light comes out decent, plus you might need a battery pack as well. I say "decent" because that's what you are mostly going to get with speed lights. Not the clean, wrap-around light that the hammerheads are known for.

 

Bigger is better when it comes to light as everybody knows and no amount of fancy gimmicks and gadgets is going to change that. I decided to photograph an indoor seasonal event around my neighborhood recently which I had previously photographed using my 2 ( 580 EX II ) speed lights. That flash was so frustrating that I often turned it off preferring to use my Monopod and natural light. That saved me some aggravation, but it did not save me when it came to moving subjects. I got a bunch of blurry/missed shots because a Monopod is not a Tripod. I said to myself next time around I'm going to bring one my big boys. So I skipped the Monopod and the 580EX speed lights and just brought along the hammerhead Metz 70 mz5 with the P76 Power Pack.

 

Despite looking like "The Man from Mars" I was able to easily shoot the entire event with plenty of power to spare, without breaking my back and the pictures came out beautiful. Unlike TTL, the Auto function on the flash kept me from blowing-out, certain scenes and I was easily able to bounce the light of the ceiling and walls.

 

Basically I just kept my fingers on the Power Button most of the time with occasional use of the aperture when I wanted to play with the DOF. Was the client happy with the results ? You bet he was happy ! Did anybody question me, or make fun of my equipment ? Most people didn't even pay attention. As a photographer you are always a nuisance despite your equipment...

- If it's anything like the Sunpak rechargable 510v battery replacement, you can easily replace the cells in it.

 

My Sunpak had 10 tag-ended AA NiCds in it, with pathetic capacities of 500 mAH. I replaced them with 1500 mAH ones, which greatly enhanced the number of shots. Unfortunately it also greatly extended the time to recharge, and required the thing to be connected to the mains for a good 24 hours!

 

A speedlight and a pocketful of AAs is the way to go IMO.

 

I NEED the external high voltage battery pack. Like drugs, once you get used to FAST recycling, you are hooked. Almost every time that I decided to leave the HV pack at home, I was frustrated with the comparatively slow recycle times of a shoe flash with just the internal batteries. I like being able to shoot without having to look at the flash to see if the ready light is lit, or have to wait for it to light up.

 

I don't know if the Lithium battery flashes are any faster than the NiMH battery flashes.

Gary, if you want my plans and parts list for the high voltage power pack for the Sunpak 622, PM me with your email.

Gary, if you want my plans and parts list for the high voltage power pack for the Sunpak 622, PM me with your email.

 

I have the Quantum Turbro and Lumedyne Megacycler. I just need the HV adapter for the 622. I don't know why SP made is a separate item, vs, making it integrated into the flash, like other flashes do.

Gary, found 2 of the cords you need. go check out Ebay seller f.sherfy

I was repeating my "neighbour's rooftop" test that I'd done a couple of days previously using a Nikon SB-800. I got the same exposure at 400 ISO from the 60CT as I got at 800 ISO from the Nikon speedlight.

 

Try the same test in daylight. Compare and provide the images produced.

 

Speedlights are JUST underpowered compared to daylight. When your subject needs matching light levels to those provided by daylight and your "Hammerhead" is just about managing at full power and at full zoom, then you'll see how woefully inadequate the Speedlight is in comparison. Ressurecting underexposed subjects through lack of output is just unnecessary if you use the correct equipment.

 

That is not to say that a Hammerhead has any better quality of light than a Speedlight has - not in the slightest - both are crap. Hammerheads are probably worse as their fresnels are less developed and are do not provide even coverage, but both compared to a parabolic are in a much lower class.

 

Hammerhead Parabolic? I'll take that, but I detest the extra weight and inconvenience of the power pack and umbilical, also without a zoom reflector they will provide less light on subject than a Fresnel zoom Hammerhead could provide (of less Ws) and if it's only for Hammerhead type photos and outside, then the matched frame coverage benefit and minimal loss of output would go a long way to swing the use to the Fresnel Hammerhead instead.

 

Off camera flash: Speedlight - Hammerhead - Parabolic? Parabolic every time, apart from where some low level fill or maybe some soft box use might be required.