Surefire way to level your film camera

I have to following problem: I recently bought a Pentax 67 and an RZ67 and can't for the life of me make properly levelled pictures with either. Using a bubble level in the cold shoe of the Pentax's wooden grip doesn't seem give me proper levelling, and the same goes for the hot shoe on the side of the RZ.

I bought a three-way tripod head with bubble levels on it, but it doesn't seem to be accurate either (and trust me, I tested it PROPERLY).

So what's your solution for levelling these classic cameras? And please don't tell me you're fixing the levelling problems in post, because my goal is do it properly "in camera". :)

If it were me, I'd pick up an inexpensive 2 or 3 way bubble level from the hardware store and cross check what you have for camera and on tripod. I have an old laser level that works beautifully, but they're on the pricey side.

Edit: have to laugh - the laser level is from the company which is now Surefire!

What are you aiming the camera at? And are you sure the subject is level?

The only subject you can be certain to be flat and level is the horizon at sea. Anything else may be going up or downhill and not align parallel with the frame edges.

If you're panning the tripod head, you also need to level the legs. Otherwise the head may tilt or yaw as you rotate it. Levelling the head alone is not sufficient for a pan to stay level as it's rotated.

There was a thread on this exact same issue a few weeks back.

Was having the same problem that ultimately turned out to be a inaccurate 3-way bubble level from China. Wound up buying a 12 pack of them on the auction site, from which 5 were accurate... the remaining 7 were all inaccurate to varying degrees.

Used to be you could buy these from quality equipment makers (Toyo, Mamiya, Horseman etc,) for $20-$30 and count on them being accurate, but that's no longer the case. Consumers opted for low cost ($2-$3) over quality... the better manufacturers couldn't compete and stopped making them, so now all we're left with is low cost junk.

I carry a little Starrett bubble level, about 3" long and the diameter of a pencil. I trust its accuracy over any molded three-way level that fits in the flash shoe. I have machinist's levels, but they're too sensitive to level a camera. Circular levels are only as good as the precision with which they're mounted. The levels in my RRS gear are consistent with my Starrett level (and the horizon), but those in my video heads aren't even close.

The three-way electronic level in the viewfinder of my Sony cameras is also very accurate.

I have a Hasselblad-brand Bullseye level on the side of my 500C. It snaps smartly onto the accessory mount on the side of the camera, and I tend to trust its accuracy both handheld and on a tripod.

With that said, with most any camera I still find myself preferring sighting a grid line against the horizon or a building to using a level. The for me with grid lines is I can make sure that the things I want to APPEAR level(or at least along a line).

Bubble levels are not as accurate as the other levels mentioned, for example a three bubble level.

I use an inexpensive 3 bubble “torpedo” level and also use the grid lines and frame edges in the viewfinder or ground glass. I shoot 35mm, 6x7 and 4x5 using the above approach. PP fixes anything overlooked at time of exposure.

Yes, camera-mounted bubble levels can be a little hard to use, but if you're also having trouble with the ones on a tripod, then I suspect that there is something in your procedure that is in the way, not the levels themselves.

For most purposes, you need only control roll, not yaw, remember

Here is a level that mounts into the shoe on the camera.

i got it because it is so pretty, -- awwk, shiny object....

I have never actually used it however, back in film days I used a simple bubble "line level"* from the local hardware store when roll level was important.

*

FWIW, the circular levels on my Manfrotto tripods have all leaked and become useless. I couldn't find replacements the right diameter so I simply carefully levelled the tripod legs and stuck a new bubble to a spare spot on the tripod table using epoxy putty. The putty takes a few hours to cure, so it gives plenty of time to tease the bubble-level into accurate position. You could even cement a replacement bubble over an inaccurate existing one.

As a side note: It's not unknown for a camera viewfinder to be out of true with the frame. Older cameras often had a black mask around the GG or inside the direct-vision finder, which could skew slightly.

It's not unknown for a camera viewfinder to be out of true with the frame.

Here's a Soviet Zenit S finder off level -- I think this was what Stalin called a "right deviation". :rolleyes:

circular levels on my Manfrotto tripods have all leaked and become useless

Perhaps you used them too much and too hard?;)

Perhaps you used them too much and too hard?;)

- Yes. I've definitely worn the bubbles out, and the hardware shop was fresh out of new ones.

It's not Blu-tak, it's epoxy putty - honest!

take your pick....

https://www.amazon.com/bullseye-level/s?page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Abullseye%20level

.

FWIW, the circular levels on my Manfrotto tripods have all leaked and become useless. I couldn't find replacements the right diameter so I simply carefully levelled the tripod legs and stuck a new bubble to a spare spot on the tripod table using epoxy putty. The putty takes a few hours to cure, so it gives plenty of time to tease the bubble-level into accurate position. You could even cement a replacement bubble over an inaccurate existing one.

 

As a side note: It's not unknown for a camera viewfinder to be out of true with the frame. Older cameras often had a black mask around the GG or inside the direct-vision finder, which could skew slightly.

Manfrotto and Gitzo parts can be found at a couple of dedicated parts web sites. I found a Bogen 3035 with a dried level, and ordered a replacement from them. I had to dig out the old one, since they're friction-fitted. The new one fit perfectly, and self-levels when you tap it into the opening. The bubble level is common throughout several different models. The part number is "B4".

Home of old stability | BogenTripodParts.com

Gitzo Spares and Parts | Gitzo Spares

I had to dig out the old one, since they're friction-fitted.

- That's exactly the reason I just cemented a new one over the top. I could see that the only way to remove the old one was to knock it out, and to replace it would require pressing a new one back in; possibly cracking it in the process and being back to square one in a few months time. Plus with no guarantee of the replacement one seating square.

This is the 2nd dried up Manfrotto bubble-level I've had. So I think my solution is better.... and besides I already had a suitable level just lying around.

This is how the part is described on 'manfrottospares.com' website:

R3,2760. Ass Bubble

Snigger! :p

Your answers, my friends, are blowin' in the wind.

The OP apparently hasn't checked back since posting this thread.

Why would you do that?

at least everyone contributed for future reference.

that sux when the op drops dead.

at least say thanks?

This is how the part is described on 'manfrottospares.com' website:

 

R3,2760. Ass Bubble

 

Snigger! :p

hahahahahahaha

Your answers, my friends, are blowin' in the wind.

 

The OP apparently hasn't checked back since posting this thread.

 

Why would you do that?

He's out practicing with his bubbles. Give him a chance to get back.:)