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D6?


Rick Helmke

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IIRC correctly, then the D1 has only one shutter curtain - so under all circumstances, the shutter is electronic.

 

Really? I thought the D1 was mostly a hybrid of the F5 and F100 (I'm not entirely sure which bits are F100), so I'd have expected Nikon to use an existing mechanical shutter design. Taking a shutter curtain out would seem to be more engineering effort than sticking to the F5's shutter design.

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Like I said, AFAIK the D1 will sync at any speed if you're using the PC socket. If I have the time this weekend, I'll test it(I just got a really great deal on a Norman beauty dish-one of the things I'd been missing from my kit-and I want to play with that also...again time permitting and contingent on me finishing grading the stack of exams I'm staring at).

 

Also, the shutter curtain thing should be REASONABLY easy to recognize with mirror prefire(I hope it's there-I don't recall) and a shutter speed long enough to watch what's actually going on. I just have to charge up some D1 series batteries, which of course is a constant battle in and of itself.

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Really! Scroll down to about middle of the first page and again on the 2nd page: 1/16,000 Shutter Speed?: Nikon FX SLR (DF, D1-D5, D600-D850) Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

I am sure I had another source but can't seem to locate it at the moment.

 

Ah, thanks. And I also tripped across the critical information (which I think I knew in the past and forgot) about the PC socket being different from the hotshoe, which is a distinction I'd failed to register in Ben's post. IIRC there should be a D-TTL (mirror up, curtain closed) prefire with TTL flash.

 

Ilkka: Two overlapping pairs of shutter curtains on the F5?

 

Ah... according to the obvious place to check, if I'm reading it right, there are just two curtains (made of eight blades), but their resting position was completely crossed over, giving double thickness in front of the film. (I believe a normal shutter has the blades crossed a bit on return, to avoid a double exposure). I guess that means one of the shutter blades has to travel the length of the film aperture before the exposure can start? Which would be fine if it happened while the mirror was moving out of the way, but this mechanism was there to deal with mirror lock-up... so I guess having the mirror up didn't help shutter lag at all. I suppose, so long as it can race the aperture mechanism, it's still not an issue. (Or does the shutter stop down in mirror lock-up? That I could actually check. One more for the list of things I should already know about the F mount...)

 

I could try staring at the back of my F5 and seeing what the blades look like, but I'm not too keen to prod them with anything just to count them! I might be able to spot the movement direction when dry firing. I have a busy weekend coming, but on the remote chance I'm sufficiently ahead of myself I might try videoing things with my V1 and reporting back.

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Really? I thought the D1 was mostly a hybrid of the F5 and F100 (I'm not entirely sure which bits are F100), so I'd have expected Nikon to use an existing mechanical shutter design. Taking a shutter curtain out would seem to be more engineering effort than sticking to the F5's shutter design.

Can't associate the D1 or F100 to the F5. They look and feel a lot different.

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If I recall correctly, the F5 has two shutter curtains one in front of each other to minimize light leaks; this would be unnecessary in a digital camera. I would think starting from the regular shutter in the F100 would be more sensible.

 

Most film camera has 2 shutter curtain but only one is closed at a time. The F5 shutter closes both curtain.

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Can't associate the D1 or F100 to the F5. They look and feel a lot different.

 

I would say that the D1 series-especially the original D1-have pretty obvious origins in the F5 and in fact switching back and forth between them is nearly seamless. The D1 basically feels like an F5 that never runs out of film.

 

The ergonomics and control layout are virtually the same-Nikon hadn't yet realized that there are settings that are either never messed with or set once per roll at most with film but might be changed from shot to shot on digital(namely ISO). Nikon also hadn't yet realized that they could make lists of custom functions that could be browsed/set from a menu, and custom functions on a D1 work just like on an F5 or an F100-hold down the "CSM" button, spin the rear dial to get to the function number you want, and the front dial to change the function(heaven help you if you don't have a manual, as I imagine even the most dedicated users only memorized which of the 30-some-odd CFs they actually used).

 

In "Early DX" thread that's running on here, I described by struggles to get RAW files out of the D1. Basically, you have to go in and enable RAW recording using a custom function whose number I don't recall, but there again it has a default value of "0" meaning RAW disabled, and can be set to "1" to enable RAW. You then have to pick a somewhat cryptic setting under "Qual" that actually corresponds to RAW.

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