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Film Camera Week for November 16


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For shots #1 and #2, I clearly forgot to stop down after focusing, so they are wide open at f/6.3. Check the brickwork in the back left. It is much clearer in #3 and #4 where I did stop down to about f/11. Nonetheless, in #1 and #2 the FP4+ responded well with wide exposure latitude, and the Caltar 215mm f/6.3 holds detail reasonably well wide open.

 

In other words, #1 and especially #2 shows how forgiving this whole setup can be.

 

Oh, and I've got a special focusing method! My Dad's extreme reading glasses. They have so much magnification they are like wearing a set of jewelers loops to check micro-focus.

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I finished working on the Minolta SRT 101 I referred to in the "What camera are you using this weekend?" thread. I loaded it with a length of Arista EDU 100 and shot off some quick frames around town, just to make sure it was functioning correctly, using the 58mm Rokkor-PF f/1.4 and the 35mm MC Rokkor-HG f/2.8 lenses. These Rokkor lenses really are exceptional performers, and while the images lack any artistic merit I hope they serve to demonstrate this quality. The film was developed in PMK Pyro and scanned on an Epson V700 Photo using Silverfast SE software.

 

I'm happy to relate that the camera and lenses are just fine, right down to a relatively trustworthy exposure meter.

 

Christmas Already (58mm)

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Saturday Morning (58mm)

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Textures (35mm)

Textures.thumb.jpg.8191dab7ad4612b663cb5825408931ea.jpg

 

Upon Reflections (58mm)

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Wild Grey Fox (35mm)

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Photos taken in Brasilia last Sunday with a Contax IIA, Jupiter 8, Ilford FP4+ 125, Kodak D-76:

 

[ATTACH=full]1271264[/ATTACH]

 

Xicara: I like the higher contrast you are getting with FP4+ and D76 better than the lower contrast I am getting. I am rating the film at Asa 80, and developing for 9.5 minutes at 70 degrees Farenheit. What is your approach that yields that nice contrast and great tonal range?

 

Thanks!

 

[ATTACH=full]1271265[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

[ATTACH=full]1271266[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

[ATTACH=full]1271267[/ATTACH]

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What is your approach that yields that nice contrast and great tonal range?

 

Hi Bradley! I expose at ISO 125 and use a 1+1 dilution of D76 for 11 minutes at 20 degrees C. I do adjust the contrast in software, but not actually with a "contrast" setting. I use software called Darktable and for black and white, i often use a filter called "exposure". With this I usually raise the "black" value, sometimes to the maximum setting of 0.1. If that's not black enough, I add a second exposure filter and apply some more (but this is rare). I sometimes also lower the brightness a little in the "contrast brightness saturation" filter and almost never touch the contrast value as it seems to make the images more harsh. This Jupiter 8 lens doesn't seem to like very bright conditions much and the brightness setting helps tame the image a bit.

 

All the best!

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http://www.flibweb.nl/flibweb/cpg154/albums/userpics/10001/ME181127.jpg

32nd Infantry Doughboy, fed up and far from home, Maaseik WW1 weekend 2018

Kodak No.2 Box Brownie, Model F, T-MAX 400

 

This roll expired in 2002, it was fighting me all the way to go onto the spool as it was curled really badly.

I pushed it a minute longer in HC-110, solution H than suggested by the Massive Dev Chart.

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Moving On said:

I remember ridiculing those aluminum blocks back in Highschool....

We had a '73 Vega when I was in high school. Had a Powerglide automatic which took an already slow car and made it even slower. Bought it new from my uncle who had a Chevrolet dealership in Eupora MS. First four years it did fine then it started using oil. Seems it was hard to find a gasket that worked well for that block. We were lucky ours never overheated. Kept it for 9 years and were glad to be rid of it.

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