Using Exposure Values for Film Photography

. . . Once full manual operation has been learned, only then will the EV scale be understood as an extra feature, useful in situations where a quick change of shutter/aperture setting is required without losing correct exposure evaluation for unchanging lighting conditions like at shows on sunny days, where there could be both static and moving subjects . . .

 

On the ‘teaching and learning’ aspects, which are relevant to the OP’s question, I concur with AJM’s Post #22.

 

I think - "once full manual operation has been learned, then the relationship between the exposure parameters should be better understood".

 

I think is that it is cumbersome and illogical to introduce or to think about any an "EV" integer.

 

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If I am at a Field Hockey match and there are two lighting scenarios, one at each end of the field, at one end I am shooting players in front lit sun and at the other end the players are in the open shade of the Grandstand, I neither need to know nor "think" that the sunny end is EV = 15 and the open shade end is EV = 12.

 

What I do need to know is that at the sunny end I am pulling: F/5.6 @ 1/1600s @ ISO200 and at the shade end: F/2.8 @ 1/800s @ ISO 200 . . . or any equivalent.

 

If I want to use a pair of exposure parameters so I can manually change only ONE of the three elements of exposure (Tv, Av and ISO), it is much MUCH quicker for me (and IME easier for students to learn) to learn the mental arithmetic relating to the Exposure Parameters.

 

Completing the example – I think: “Between the two ends of the field, I just want to change the Tv (Shutter Speed); my safe Tv ≤ 1/800th s.; I want F/2.8 for the DoF I require when framing a Full Body Shot; … [calculating in brain] … change 5.6 to 4 to 2.8 ... means change 1/1600 to 1/3200 to 1/6400s.”

 

Resultant Calculated Usable Exposures - Sunny end: F/2.8 @ 1/6400th s @ ISO200; Shade end: F/2.8 @ 1/800th s @ ISO200

Operational Function: Change Tv three full clicks.

 

Similarly, if I am shooting at the sunny end and quickly need a larger DoF, (let's say I to pull a few shots at F/8) - I think "change 2.8 to 4 to 5.6 to 8" means change 1/6400 to 1/3200 to 1/1600 to 1/800"

Operational Function - change Av and Tv four full clicks.

 

In both situations the EV integer is irrelevant; and using it just adds another layer of unnecessary thinking.

 

I re-iterate that in the previous thread the reason I referenced an EV Table was the benefit of the "Scene Descriptors" (e.g. "Night Lights at Theme Park or Circus") and how these Scene Descriptions could be used to get a reasonable guess at the exposures to use when one not using a Light Meter or Camera with TTL Metering.

 

WW

As I explain to my students, beginning photography on film with a 1970's era Pentax K 1000 can seem like juggling 3 or 4 balls in the air simultaneously, but eventually with some practice most people can do this. I'm grateful that the cameras that my students use don't have the EV system to confuse them--it would add another ball to the juggling act.

 

Thanks for posting about the K 1000. It's clearer now how you're teaching your students. I imagined one or more students possibly owning a camera with an EV scale. But we agree on one thing and that is to learn basic manual exposure operation first. However, as I was saying, the EV scale is an extra, and really should be explained as such, and advised as to when it becomes useful for quick change of needed shutter speed or aperture opening as they're required.

 

A beginner starting off with a Minolta 7s or similar EV camera, would more than likely want to know what "EV" was all about since the meter/s reads in EV

 

Interestingly, the Keiv 60 with TTL meter (I just received one made in '86) has EV when you're not having EV. Set the aperture number on the meter's dial to the full open aperture number of the lens in use. Then when the second red indicator light comes on by turning the meter's speed dial, the rest of the speed/aperture readings can be read and used as an "EV" scale without any further ado. Of course, the combinations on the meter must be transferred to the camera as far as the Kiev 60 is concerned

 

I'm sure there are good and valid reasons for teaching a beginner about EV, but only after they've learned the basics of exposure. Your students who are "looking for the easiest way", to that I can only ask, what is the "easiest" way ?

Edited November 20, 2018 by kmac

The "easiest way" usually involves not having to learn very much and just getting something on film, and doing the bare minimum to complete an assignment. It also involves accepting the first thing that comes up in the print developer, regardless of a lack of appropriate contrast, etc.. Some students are remarkably creative in their efforts to avoid the actual work that it takes to make good photographs. If they applied their creativity to working rather than avoiding working their results would be far better. I would like to add that many of my students have worked hard and have the knowledge and the prints to show for it.

- How many professional 'blad users have you polled?

 

What, you expected me to poll 'blad users about the EV lock? Really? I used one for years on weddings and have known many others who used them, but ya know, I never asked that particular question. And believe it or not, they never complained about it on their own. Sorry, but I don't have an exact count of fellow 'blad users to verify my opinion.