Film Camera Photos Are Blurry

I expect he moved on.

Looks like low light camera movement to me.

I expect he moved on.

Looks like low light camera movement to me.

 

- Yep.

"samfreds was last seen: Sep 23, 2018"

 

So anything posted after that date is pretty much a waste of bandwidth.

 

It makes me wonder whether the replies posted have any effect anyway. It appears that if people don't like what's written, they just ignore it. Good advice or not.

 

Maybe the stock reply ought to be:

"Oh yes! What you're doing is marvellous! Keep doing exactly the same thing, and the outcome is bound to change for the better."

It makes me wonder whether the replies posted have any effect anyway.

 

Apparently the first two replies had the right effect if samfreds's reply to them is anything to go by - "Thanks for the help"

 

Future readers of the thread might get something out of the subsequent posts. That's always been my experience, and I'd be extremely reluctant to buy a OM10 after reading this thread

Other than any surprise caused by the dropping shutter speed in aperture priority (where a dSLR would presumably have boosted the ISO), I don't see anything for which the OM10 can be blamed.

 

On the "is something up with the shutter" argument: the first image shows a blur from roughly top left to bottom right, almost on the diagonal, although the trails from the lights on the clock indicate the camera shaking nonlinearly during travel. The second image is ghosted bottom left to top right, but more horizontal than vertical, and shows slightly more distinct overlays at the ends of the travel, which is a good example of typical hand shake as the shutter is pressed. The third image looks like a longer exposure, and has a more complex hand tremor. I don't think there's anything there which doesn't look like good 'ol "camera wasn't still during the exposure". Technically the film could have been moving behind the lens, but it would have had to be doing it quickly and in random directions, and I can't really see how an OM10 could possibly do that.

 

Now this, on the other hand, is weird. :-) (Since we recently discussed analysing film camera oddities.)

Doesn't the OP get replies in email?

Doesn't the OP get replies in email?

 

Only if the OP clicked "Watch Thread"

Doesn't the OP get replies in email?

Only if the OP clicked "Watch Thread"

 

To get an email advice there are TWO processes:

Firstly click on "Watch Thread" (as mentioned)

Secondly select "and receive email notifications"

 

The default selection to "Watch Thread" is without email advice.

 

I think that any OP (i.e. any "Thread Starter") is NOT automatically subscribed to "Watch Thread", as is the case in some forums.

 

Re "samfreds was last seen: Sep 23, 2018" (rodeo joe): It is possible that any OP could view the thread, without logging in: but I think that would be unusual.

 

Hopefully the OP read enough to acquire some useful information: certainly there was a lot of effort put in.

 

WW

Don't worry about no replies. There are people who throw a question at multiple sites on the net (and sometimes never check back). Heck, there are people who post the same question in multiple threads on the same site, they are a moderator's nightmare. I am not saying this is what happened here, but new users posting one question and never following up or coming back is a familiar occurrence on PN.

 

However, don't think your efforts got wasted. The posted pics were real, so were your diagnosis and solutions. In future, anyone with similar issues who searches these forums will thank you. May be it will spare them from starting yet another thread. This is an example of user created knowledge-base. Its always beneficial as a whole, if not to the OP.

he he he, similar problem

 

On Friday at a night football game, one of my students came to me saying that her football pix was not sharp.

She was in near panic mode, and was not able to think clearly to troubleshoot the problem.

 

I looked at the pix on the back of her camera. hmmmm, the camera indicated shutter speed for the pix was 1/125 sec. I was shooting at 1/500 sec. My immediate suspicion was subject motion, that the IS could obviously not compensate for. I took her off "scene mode" and put her on M and at a setting similar to mine, and all was well.

A long number of years ago Kodak, remember them, was getting a lot of complaints about heir films being blurry and mounted an investigation. The result was that the biggest culprit wa "camera shake". Either the photographer does not keep the camera still or the the shutter speed does not match the condiions susch as Gary Nakayama states abouve. The cure is fairly simple. If you have a 50mm lens then make sure your shutter speed is no slowwer that 1/50 second, 60mm lens 1/60 second etc etc. My solution which I have used for 30 years is a tripod. I can set a time of 10 minutes and get no fuzzy shots with a tripod. Another option is a monopod.

A long number of years ago Kodak, remember them, was getting a lot of complaints about heir films being blurry and mounted an investigation. The result was that the biggest culprit wa "camera shake". Either the photographer does not keep the camera still or the the shutter speed does not match the condiions susch as Gary Nakayama states abouve. The cure is fairly simple. If you have a 50mm lens then make sure your shutter speed is no slowwer that 1/50 second, 60mm lens 1/60 second etc etc. My solution which I have used for 30 years is a tripod. I can set a time of 10 minutes and get no fuzzy shots with a tripod. Another option is a monopod.

 

Man you had to see how some people SHOVED the shutter release down, so the camera moved down.

I was surprised if they got ANY sharp photos.

 

A relative once asked me why her pix were blurry.

hmm...P&S or phone camera held out at arms length (and wobbly), pushing down the camera when pushing down the shutter . . .o_O

Yes, proper shutter release is so important. Done correctly, 1/15th with a 50mm CAN be done - if needed.

There are things that help keep the camera more steady, and used to be taught, such as

in books or camera manuals.

 

Holding your breath, just before pressing the shutter release.

 

Without a tripod (or monopod) finding something to lean against, or even

better, set the camera on helps a lot.

 

I think in the Ektachrome 64 days, I used to take pictures in museums that

didn't allow flash, down to 1/15 or 1/8. Maybe two shots to improve the

chances of a good one.

Technique is lost to many.

At least for them, the old TLR, when used with the neck strap had a better chance at a sharp image then a purely hand held camera.

 

A problem is the parents do not know how to hold the camera, so they can't teach the kids.

Another is the phone camera and P&S with the LCD screen. They make the users stick out their arms, so they can see the screen.

Yes, I forgot to mention a shutter release which I often use with a tripod. I like and recall the comment on TLR cameras which I used many years ago, with a neck strap you can get very slow and sharp images.

 

Having said that tripods are not always allowed, such as in museums so learning to keep the camera steady with the appropriate shutter speed is key.

The biggest mistake I see most people make is punching the button with a quick release.

Let the camera do its job.

Follow through holding the release through the shot.