How to get maximum grain amount and enlarged grain size ?

Hi,

 

I'm looking to find ways to get more amount of grain , but also larger grain than usual you would get or want to get.

Before i did digital photography. But for the better grain capabilities i started Film photography.

 

As far i have read you can accomplish this with an amount of tricks and techniques.

 

• Developper: use of Rodinal ? Also for high contrast.
  
• developing temperature must be higher then indicated.
  
• Faster films such as ASA 3200
  
• pushing the film in film development
  
• ...
  
• ...
  

If you know other interesting developers, please let me know.

Also if there exist other techniques...

You could also try putting your film in either extremely hot (90 degrees F.) or extremely cold (40 degrees F) after processing. Thermal shock is a well known cause of increased grain.

shoot that new P 3200 asa film. see the thread about it with examples here..

 

And Kodak P3200 is now back

The ancient trick was to develop Tri X in Dektol - concentration / temp to taste by experimentation. Good luck!

TP has times for Dektol:

 

http://wwwru.kodak.com/RU/ru/professional/support/techPubs/p255/p255.pdf

 

specifically 3 minutes, and no dilution is specified.

 

No dilution seems surprising, but that is what it says.

Use Ilford Delta 3200. Grain the size of bullets with no special treatment!

 

Strangely, the usually grainy Rodinal developer didn't give the most obvious grain on this film. Of all the developers I've personally tried with Delta 3200, the most grainy was D76 at 1:1 dilution.

 

I doubt any amount of tinkering with the EI or development of Tri-X will come anywhere close to the 60 grit sandpaper graininess of D3200.

 

You could also shoot the subject small in the frame with a wideangle lens, so that it needed more enlargement.

 

Oh, BTW. This is what happens to a normal (monochrome converted) digital image if you push the sharpness sliders to the max.

Edited September 22, 2018 by rodeo_joe|1

Try TMZ exposed at EI 25,000 and processed in TMax for 34 minutes.

Try TMZ exposed at EI 25,000 and processed in TMax for 34 minutes.

 

The TMAX P3200 film you mean ??

Of course, it's "grain" in film, and "noise" in digital, but you can often make them come out somewhat similarly.

 

This is grain, as displayed in that marvel of film -- GAF 500 color slide film.

So help me, I love it! o_O

The TMAX P3200 film you mean ??

 

Yes . . . I'm old . . . TMax100's designation is TMX. 400's is TMY (now TMY-2) and 3200 is TMZ.

Here is in-date TMZ(Kodak TMAX P3200) shot at EI 3200 and developed at the recommended time/dilution in TMAX developer(I don't remember exactly what that is).

 

This, IMO, gives a nice balance of grain and contrast. Shooting at a higher EI also increases the contrast, and you can pretty quickly get past what is-IMO-desirable for a photo.

 

Of course, if you want more(apparent) grain you can always shoot a "traditional" film like Tri-X or HP5 in the EI 3200 or 6400 range.

 

Developers like D76 tend to "soften" the grain(D76 is a solvent developer, and as a consequence the edges of the grain are less defined and it looks smaller), while Rodinal tends to accentuate it. Diluting solvent developers also lessens the solvent effect somewhat-i.e. D76 at 1:1 will give results that are grainier but also lower contrast than the same film exposed the same but developed in straight D76.

 

If grain is the goal, though, I think a high speed T-grain film-whether TMZ or Delta 3200-is the way to go. They give you lots of grain while still keeping at least a decent handle on contrast.

 

Hmm... I took a photo of a

wheat field... there was so

much grain, it was incredible...

http://bayouline.com/o2.gif

Of course, it's "grain" in film, and "noise" in digital, but you can often make them come out somewhat similarly.

 

This is grain, as displayed in that marvel of film -- GAF 500 color slide film.

[ATTACH=full]1264071[/ATTACH]

So help me, I love it! o_O

Did you really have to remind me of that stuff?? :)

But GAF 500 was

Nowadays with Photoshop you can correct the brownish magenta color cast, but its unaltered form evokes times and places...

It just occurred to me that this thread asks for "grain size". Graininess can depend on both the size and shape of the grains. In addition, there is grain aliasing when scanning grainy negatives.

Did you really have to remind me of that stuff?? :)

 

Reminds me, I have slides on Anscochrome 200, I believe, from my last days in high school.

 

I bought the roll, processing included, for half price from the outdated bin at a nearby camera store.

 

Reminds me, I have slides on Anscochrome 200, I believe, from my last days in high school.

 

I bought the roll, processing included, for half price from the outdated bin at a nearby camera store.

 

[ATTACH=full]1264337[/ATTACH]

 

You should have paid less.

Glen . . . It looks like we went to school at about the same time . . .

Glen . . . It looks like we went to school at about the same time . . .

 

The picture is 1976, and our tassels were red, white, and blue.

 

I didn't get a yearbook, so this roll is my only memory for many of those people.

(We only lived there two years, so it isn't the people I went to school with for many years.)

I graduated in 1979 . . . Our tassels were silver and blue . . . I don't know where my yearbooks are. All of my memories are in my head . . . It's really noisy there . . .

hello everyone,

 

Thx a lot for your reactions. It helped me. What i was really looking for ways of getting pictures like Michael Ackerman.

You can see a screen shot. This photographer uses rather large grain as you can see.