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How can I make my prints look AGED and YELLOW?


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So most people try to avoid faded prints and yellowed photos, But if I wanted to make my B&W print look aged and yellow how could I do it? Ive heard acid can cause yellowing, so anyone know some solution that could yellow my print fast?

 

Thinking of getting a few luster/glossy B&W prints and trying to "age" them. My film photo's alredy look 60 years old- I just need that yellow tinge.

 

 

 

Thoughts??

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So most people try to avoid faded prints and yellowed photos, But if I wanted to make my B&W print look aged and yellow how could I do it? Ive heard acid can cause yellowing, so anyone know some solution that could yellow my print fast?

 

Thinking of getting a few luster/glossy B&W prints and trying to "age" them. My film photo's alredy look 60 years old- I just need that yellow tinge.

 

 

 

Thoughts??

 

I have a thought. Environmental pollution naturally tarnishes silver gelatin prints to yellow over time. H2S is likely to be a major contributor. If the prints are submerged in a very dilute solution of H2S (few ppm, also concentrated H2S is poisonous, it can kill you!), they may show some accelerated deterioration, although the exact effect would be hard to guess a priori.

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Assuming, as others seem to have assumed, that you are talking about B&W fiber prints created in a wet darkroom, bleach and sepia toner are the best bet to get what you want.

 

Make a number of identical prints, vary the amount of time in the bleach and then redevelop them in the toner. You can easily get an old, mottled, look by under bleaching.

 

The print may not LOOK old . . . some physical damage will also help . . .

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It would seem that some of this could be done manipulating digital image data.

 

Much of the 'old' look comes from randomness in the effect. Also cracks and scratches with age.

 

Find some old yellowed prints, see what look you want, then figure out how to digitally

create that look.

-- glen

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When I was in fourth grade, we had a project to make pirate treasure maps.

 

The last steps were done by the teacher, as they could be too dangerous for us.

They involved some amounts of coffee, linseed oil, and finally burning of the edges.

 

But this works for non-coated paper.

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-- glen

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