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How to reassemble a 135mm. f3.5 Canon new FD ?


audegabriel

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I got an old Canon FD lens from my father, but since it had a lot of dirt in it, i started disassembling it. It all went pretty good until I came to the reassemble part. Once I took of the metal part connected to the aperture opening and closing, I couldn't manage put it back. There are two metal "sticks" supposed to be plugged in the other part related to the aperture. I linked a screenshot of a video I watched in order to find answers but i'm stuck on the part where he is pulling the two pieces together as showed on the screenshot, it just won't fit right. Can you guys please help me resolve this probleme ?

 

Capture.thumb.PNG.8c614d19eef198c73fd2a00fd0fa209e.PNG

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It all went pretty good until I came to the reassemble part.

 

I think nearly everyone who has taken a lens or other complex item apart, has come to this point, exactly :)

 

It is sometimes said that if you take it apart and reassemble it enough times, you will have enough parts left over to build a duplicate. :confused:

 

As a general piece of advice, the time to worry about reassembly is when you are taking it apart -

 

take pictures of each step,

make notes and sketches of what went where.

keep parts labeled and in separate holders/containers.

 

There are, BTW, some of these on eBay and other online sites for under $US 25.

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Thank you for your answer, although it doesn't help me very much. I did note everything down and took a lot of pictures throughout the whole process of disassembling the lens, and even though I am reassembling it the way i wrote it all down, piece by piece, something just won't go right. I must have missed a step, or something might already have been damaged before i started disassembling the lens.

If anybody could help me fixing this probleme, by helping me find a solution or relate to a similar probleme you have had before and how you fixed it, instead of telling me how i should have done, tell me what i should do.

 

That said, I agree with you and would say to anybody wanting to start disassembling a lens to note everything down, and do your research BEFORE engaging in this particularly complicated adventure.

 

Thank you very much

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Cannot give you complete instructions but here are a few things to try / watch out for:

 

  1. Make sure the mount is unlocked (as if the lens was mounted to a camera). Try moving the levers to a matching position when installing the mount.
  2. The lever in the upper red circle is moved by the cam of the large ring one of the "sticks" hooks into. The lever easily snaps "behind" the cam when the ring is rotated to far. Double check.
  3. The stop in the lower red circle is attached to the aperture ring. If it is in the way, set a different aperture.

assembly.png.c7c30501cadd737c2cacf2ee57e40ac5.png

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  • 2 months later...

I have written a blog on the disassembly of a Canon 50mm f/1.8 FD SC (with notes on 50mm f/1.4 FD SSC). In the introductory section there are lots of instructions on the breech lock Canon mount. Look through that and you should be able to get your mount back together.

 

canon-fd-breechlock-nomenclature.jpg

 

180908_019_50f1-8-sc-i-fd-o.jpg

 

Things to note when lifting up the breech lock mount: (1) The AR coupler – the almost dark metal piece at 270⁰. This AR coupler would move with the AR, and is an important piece to reinstall the aperture ring detent ball bearings. Exact position of this coupler must be noted for correct setting of aperture as well as constraining the ASL to the correct position (previous photo). (2) Aperture curve – that controls the size of the aperture when the coupler moves with the ASL (pulled by the very long spring in the previous picture, but constrained by the AR coupler; so complex 3-piece movement with a spring!). In the method I disassemble the lens, the aperture is set at maximum, which corresponds to the flat part of the aperture curve. (3) At 100⁰ on the inner collar the EE switch pin sits. When the AR moves the metal strip on the outer collar moves, and towards the end at the minimum aperture the strip has a bump and pushes the EE switch pin up and thus will only allow the lens to be set to O or A when the camera has a corresponding hole to allow the EE switch pin to sit in. At this time remove and keep the EE switch pin save. Or it may launch itself on the crevice on the floor and defy the most ardent search party conducted to find

 

Hope this helps.

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