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Using only 500ml instead of 580 for 2 135 reels in Paterson tank?


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I am in the planning process of developing my own 135 film and I am wondering if it's okay to use only 500ml of developer in a paterson tank with 2 135 reels, instead of the 2*290=580 as it says in the instructions?

Can I just prolong the development time by 10% and be fine?

 

It would make it so much easier to split up a 1 liter Tetenal Colortec C41 chemical kit.

I don't take that many photos and would like to extend the shelf life as much as possible.

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I think you're likely to get one slightly less-developed edge in the top film, and maybe you'll see the effect of surface foam.

 

I think a better approach might be to take that 500 ml, and dilute it up to 580 (or for easier maths, maybe 600 ml), and then allow extra time for the bigger dilution. As a first guess, I'd multiply the time by 6/5.

 

I find the times for C41 a bit short anyway. I always use the kit at 30 deg. C; the longer times are easier to keep to accurately, and the temperature control is much easier.

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Does 500ml physically cover the top reel? If not, you will have a roll with the top part of the top of the roll on the top reel undeveloped or only partially developed.

 

Given the cost of film and chemicals today, it is a false economy to skimp on any part of the process.

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I agree with the others-you'll want to look at things VERY carefully. I'd put the reels in the tank and pour 500mL of water in with the lid off. If you don't have at least 1mm or so of space above the top of the reel(preferably more than that) you're likely to have edge problems. I don't use Patterson so can't say for sure if that will cover it.

 

I also agree that upping the volume to 600mL is likely the best way to go. It WILL slow down the developer(rxn rate α concentration) but with color negative film I doubt that small dilution will change it by a huge amount. I've not actually dug into the kinetics of film development, but just as some anedotal numbers when D76 is diluted 1:1 the development time is 1.3x-1.4x.

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there is a very good chance you will not have enough developer in the tank to cover the top reel. as such your top roll will have development issues, as in only partial development and it will ruin 1 roll. I use 600 ml for 2 35mm rolls in the tank as developer is cheap, re-shooting shots is not
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I don't take that many photos and would like to extend the shelf life as much as possible.

 

Eight 35mm 36xposure films is a safe quantity for one litre of C41 over a period of 6 to 8 months. If you can manage exposing eight films in that time, mix the whole one litre of chemicals and ensure the liquid is right to the brim of the containers before fitting the cap each time you use them

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Buy a stainless steel reel and tank. For those, 500ml is plenty.

 

I thought C41 was supposed to do 12 36exposure rolls/liter. E6, last I knew, is eight.

 

But you do have to increase the development time according to the given schedule.

 

But otherwise, I agree with the above. Mix the whole liter, keep it in appropriately sealed bottles,

use 580ml and return to the bottle. This changes the increase in time schedule, but in the

end should do the same number of rolls.

-- glen

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A quick check with my Paterson system 4 tank showed that it takes 575ml to just cover 2x 35mm (empty) reels. So, yes, you need approximately 580ml as Paterson recommends.

 

I wouldn't use more, since overfilling a tank reduces the airspace and hence reduces the efficacy of inversion agitation.

 

You might want to consider getting a Jobo 1520 Uni-tank that only requires 485ml of solution, or as previously suggested, a double 35mm stainless tank.

 

IME, both Jobo and stainless reels are easier to load than the 'sticky' Paterson ones.

 

I'm not entirely convinced that the steel ball-bearings in Paterson reels don't adversely interact with the blix bath either. The BBs have a polished finish when new, but come out of any colour process with a satin or matt finish.

Edited by rodeo_joe|1
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(snip)

I'm not entirely convinced that the steel ball-bearings in Paterson reels don't adversely interact with the blix bath either. The BBs have a polished finish when new, but come out of any colour process with a satin or matt finish.

 

The usual one for Blix is ferric-EDTA, so a little more iron shouldn't hurt it.

 

Or maybe you were wondering about the balls themselves.

 

Nikor tanks have a recommendation for cleaning and passivating with nitric acid.

That might work on the balls, too.

-- glen

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