Rolleiflex 3.5F meter not working

<p>I have a Rolleiflex 3.5F with a non-functioning meter. I do have a good hand-held meter (and I'm aware of the limitations of old selenium meters) but it would be nice if the Rollei meter could be got working. I know how to remove the meter unit and the sensing cell from the camera but how can I test each of these components to work out which needs replacing? Any constructive suggestions would be welcome.<br>

Cheers, TOM</p>

<p>My suggestion is get it repaired by a professional camera technician a quality camera like a Rolleiflex is worth spending a few $ on because of it's age it could probably do with a CLA anyway, don't tinker with it yourself, the World is full of unserviceable cameras that people have dismantled on their kitchen table.</p>

<p>Rollei made special testing and calibrating equipment for their meters. </p>

<p>When exposed to a known instensity of light the selenium cell produces a specfic voltage. I do not know what the spec is for the cells.</p>

<p>My advice is to send it to Harry Fleenor - Oceanside Camera repair.</p>

<p>Photo Paepke in Germany (Dusseldorf) has new photoelectric celss for Rolleiflex F models. Price makes sence, 120 € assembled if I remember right.</p>

<p>Kerkko. </p>

<p>I've sent two meters, one of which was a Weston Master V selenium cell meter, to Hollywood Light Metric for repair and calibrating. Interestingly, the meter in my Rolleiflex 2.8F version I matches the Weston dead on.</p>

<p>Not sure if they could work on yours. The suggestion to send to Harry Fleenor may be the best.</p>

<p>Whoa - wait before you send it off for expensive repairs. There are simple user maintenance tasks you can do.<br>

For some reason selenium cells got a bad rap. They are really excellent meter if maintained. I have a 3.5F I bought new in 1971 and it is as accurate as my Gossen Sixtar unit. Selenium cells produce tiny amounts of electrical current and it is absolutely essential that there is no resistance in the electrical circuit. Rolleis have gold plated contacts but even these need cleaning periodically.<br>

If you have your original manual it tells how to remove the meter. Its very simple to do: just remove two tiny screws. On the back of the meter you will find two gold posts. Clean and polish these with a clean pencil eraser - yes a pencil eraser. It has just the right amount of abrasiveness. In the recess in the knob you will find two corresponding gold recesses. You must sharpen an eraser to a point to fit into these recesses. After blowing out the ereaser dust put the meter back in the knob.<br>

Now take a stout sewing needle and unscrew the two screws that hold the selenium cell in place. On the back of the cell you will find two spring-loaded gold pins. Carefully polish these and the corresponding recesses in the camera body. Again clean out the dust and it back together.<br>

After doing this there is an excellent chance your meter will work. If not, then send it off to Mr Fleenor.<br>

I've also brought a meter on a 3.5E back to life but the procedure is a bit different. Same concept though: clean the contacts in the electrical circuitry.</p>

<p>Re the suggestion to send it to Harry Fleenor - He currently has my 2.8F and reports he cannot repair the meter because "parts are not available." So it is probably a good idea to contact him before shipping off your camera. N.B. I have the greatest respet for Mr Fleenor and his work. No criticism is intended. My camera's problems may be entirely different.</p>

<p>Just sell it to me for a lark, and buy one of those all automatic everything modern cameras. You deserve it.</p>

<p>;-)</p>

<p>Harry Fleenor without a doubt. His expense is worth the peace of mind knowing that the camera is working at its potential and not having to compensate for a less than perfect performing camera. He has serviced my 2.8F and I am able to concentrate on the subject matter in front of me and not on the cameras function.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for the helpful input.<br>

Following Al Derickson’s suggestion, I removed the meter unit and the light sensor (the owners manual shoes how) and cleaned the gold contacts with a pencil eraser. My multimeter showed the light sensor unit was generating a small voltage in daylight, and this was reaching the contacts in the meter housing. But still no movement of the meter needle. So now I know the meter unit is faulty, and I will have to find a replacement - probably wait patiently for one to appear on ebay.<br>

Oh, and thanks Brad, but after much agonising I have decided to keep the Rollei and use it.</p>

<p>I contacted Mr. Fleenor and George Milton at Quality Light Metric, and both said that they cannot service the Rolleiflex 3.5 F (or any Rolleiflex) meter. No parts, and no selenium cells in that shape. You may have to contact the people in Germany (in the post above).</p>

<p>I took the meter cell off, as per the instructions in the manual, and turned the little screw thingy. Set the ASA to 12, shutter speed to 500, and whatchamacallit to 0. Suddenly, my meter works, and is astoundingly accurate, despite all the stuff on the web about them not working properly if at all. Just goes to show... don't let the web do your thinking nor experimentation for you.</p>

<p>

Now take a stout sewing needle and unscrew the two screws that hold the selenium cell in place. </p>

The sewing needle part confuses me.

<p>Photo Paepke in Germany (Dusseldorf) has new photoelectric celss for Rolleiflex F models. Price makes sence, 120 € assembled if I remember right.</p>

<p>Kerkko. </p>

I think they closed down. Their email doesn't work.