Manually tripping shutter on RB67 lenses

So, I just acquired a pretty full set of Mamiya gear, consisting of the RB67 with W/L and prism finders, 4 lenses (65, 90, 127, 180), the dual cable release and the original metal attaché case to carry it all. It all seems to be in good condition (aside from the foam on the mirror and, maybe, the light seals), but I have a "new to this gear" question.

 

I found the manual online, and learned that I can cock and fire the shutters in the lenses manually, and it works, but I'm not sure what the expected results are. Sometimes, when I do this, the shutter trips as soon as I press the release button. Other times, it "unlocks" the pins, but I have to move the pins by hand to make the shutter fire. It doesn't take much force, but it seems odd that I have to do so, at all.

 

So, the question is, is this normal or a cause for concern?

 

Thanks!

I have a similar complement of lenses as you-65, 90, 127, 150, and 250. Some of mine will trip as they should, while others are "sluggish."

 

Ultimately, I find testing on the body to be the best way to test the shutter. It's easiest if you just remove the film back completely, but flipping the multiple exposure lever works also. Since these are mechanical shutters, I use a Calumet shutter speed tester to check lenses. Most of mine are within 1/3 stop at all speeds, but a couple are pretty far off(esp. at lower speeds).

I forget now and my equipment isn't handy. Does the mirror up selector switch on the lens change the effect you're getting?

There are some YouTube videos showing RB67 lenses being actuated while detached from the body. It shows the behavior you are describing.

So, it sounds like it's pretty common, so I worry about it. Thanks, everyone!

Well, I'm bummed. I finally got my first roll of 120 scanned and discovered that, out of 12 possible frames, 4 were accidentally double-exposed, 2 were shaken/out of focus (apparently I really suck at using this camera), one was just a crap image, and one was not too bad. Here's the one half decent one.

 

I still double expose shots on my RB67 after many years. As far as shake, I always use a tripod. But then I usually shoot landscapes. You didn't mention what film you use. But you could try Portra ISO 400. If you insist on hand holding, you'll have to shoot faster film. Even then, the max speed of the RB67 is 1/400 which might not be fast enough for hand holding the longer lenses. Back to tripods. Nice shot. Where was it taken?

I still double expose shots on my RB67 after many years. As far as shake, I always use a tripod. But then I usually shoot landscapes. You didn't mention what film you use. But you could try Portra ISO 400. If you insist on hand holding, you'll have to shoot faster film. Even then, the max speed of the RB67 is 1/400 which might not be fast enough for hand holding the longer lenses. Back to tripods. Nice shot. Where was it taken?

Yeah, I used a tripod for all my shots. It's a pretty sturdy one, too, but they were long twilight exposures and it was windy. Not ideal circumstances, but I wanted to finish the roll up. I don't remember what the film was. It was literally a year ago, and I didn't keep notes, but it was probably a 100 speed.

 

Thanks. This is Creek Street, Ketchikan, Alaska. It's one of the oldest streets in the city, and it's really a pedestrian-only boardwalk, but still officially a street. The second building used to be a bordello, and I imagine many of the other buildings were saloons at one time.

go to a proS to avoid double exposures and to get the fully enclosed WLF

I am never without a monopod when using my RB67's, and the tripod (Husky 4) is nearby if needed. Aloha, Bill

go to a proS to avoid double exposures and to get the fully enclosed WLF

Okay. You have one you want to trade for my camera, I assume.

Okay. You have one you want to trade for my camera, I assume.

On eBay the Pro S bodies go for around $100, and up. The original RB's were great, but the Pro S and SD are the way to go.

On eBay the Pro S bodies go for around $100, and up. The original RB's were great, but the Pro S and SD are the way to go.

Actually, mine IS a ProS. Just goes to show that nothing is foolproof if the fool is determined enough.

if you have the proS an older back is attached.

Using this camera takes some getting use to. After awhile you will find it all becomes automatic and find those interlocks annoying. One word of caution... if the camera wont fire, dont force anything... thats what causes damage.

 

Sometimes its something as silly as the palm of your hand, in the shooting position, leaning on the little tab of the revolving back that will give you the symptom of only firing at certain angles. Forgetting to advance the film is the most common mistake. YOu'll shoot an entire roll only to find the spool was never advanced or still on one frame when you open the back. Forgetting to take the lens out of mirror up mode... etc etc etc.

 

Read the manual and practice practice.

 

Oh and dont forget to cock the lens and body before mounting or dismounting a lens.

 

BTW, check all your lenses off camera to see if the shutter is opening properly at all speeds? A typical problem with shutters that have been in storage for a long time is they get lazy. another common problem if its been dropped or banged a tiny spring can dislodge that controls the shutter blades. Dont snap the advance lever as if it were a 35mm camera... it cracks the cast metal stop in the insert.

 

Check the seals if they are dry rotted or gumm... replace them yourself... a kit is very cheap adn its an easy DIY project.

if you have the proS an older back is attached.

That's certainly possible.

Using this camera takes some getting use to. After awhile you will find it all becomes automatic and find those interlocks annoying. One word of caution... if the camera wont fire, dont force anything... thats what causes damage.

 

Sometimes its something as silly as the palm of your hand, in the shooting position, leaning on the little tab of the revolving back that will give you the symptom of only firing at certain angles. Forgetting to advance the film is the most common mistake. YOu'll shoot an entire roll only to find the spool was never advanced or still on one frame when you open the back. Forgetting to take the lens out of mirror up mode... etc etc etc.

 

Read the manual and practice practice.

 

Oh and dont forget to cock the lens and body before mounting or dismounting a lens.

 

BTW, check all your lenses off camera to see if the shutter is opening properly at all speeds? A typical problem with shutters that have been in storage for a long time is they get lazy. another common problem if its been dropped or banged a tiny spring can dislodge that controls the shutter blades. Dont snap the advance lever as if it were a 35mm camera... it cracks the cast metal stop in the insert.

 

Check the seals if they are dry rotted or gumm... replace them yourself... a kit is very cheap adn its an easy DIY project.

Thanks for all the advice! I replaced the light seals before I even attempted to use it. They were in really bad shape, especially the mirror bumpers. And, yes, the interlocks drive me crazy! And even more so now that I've seen that they don't prevent me from doing stupid things.

 

I actually have read the manual, more than once but, until I've used the camera enough, the details are going to keep slipping out of my memory. I need to practice more, as you said. And one of my To-Do List items is to learn how to use the dual cable release that came with it. That thing is really counter-intuitive, for me.

you dont need a duel cable. when tye lens is in mirror up, you fire the camera as usual and the lens will wait for you to trip the shutter via a cable to the lens.

 

once you get the hang of the beast, you'll really enjoy it. oh, and lets not forget those beautiful negatives. are you setting up a darkroom?

 

have fun and i hope you'll be posting some of those masterpieces here?

 

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you dont need a duel cable. when tye lens is in mirror up, you fire the camera as usual and the lens will wait for you to trip the shutter via a cable to the lens.

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Sorry. I don't understand what you mean. Maybe if I'd used it more recently, it would make sense to me.

once you get the hang of the beast, you'll really enjoy it. oh, and lets not forget those beautiful negatives. are you setting up a darkroom?

 

have fun and i hope you'll be posting some of those masterpieces here?

Yes, I think I will. I've really enjoyed playing with it. If I can get the hang of it, I think it will really suit me. And, of course, I'll post my messterpieces here. :D

 

I'd like to set up a darkroom, if only to make it more affordable, but it may be beyond me. I haven't even been in a darkroom since the early 70's and I've never worked in one. I wouldn't even know where to start.

screw a cable into the lens. set that knob for mirror up. when you're ready to take the picture, use the regular fire button. that will bring the mirror up. now use the cable to fire the lens

 

 

you really dont need much to do your own negatives, just a daylight tank and the chemicals. load the tank at night in a closet or a bathroom.

 

one the film is in the tank, lights on and get to work.

 

scan your negatives so you can play with them in photoshop to clean m up a bit. you can always take the scan files to wallgreens to print on their $100,000 printer for $2 a pop.

screw a cable into the lens. set that knob for mirror up. when you're ready to take the picture, use the regular fire button. that will bring the mirror up. now use the cable to fire the lens

Ahhh! Now I get it. Thanks!

you really dont need much to do your own negatives, just a daylight tank and the chemicals. load the tank at night in a closet or a bathroom.

 

one the film is in the tank, lights on and get to work.

 

scan your negatives so you can play with them in photoshop to clean m up a bit. you can always take the scan files to wallgreens to print on their $100,000 printer for $2 a pop.

That's what I was thinking, regarding film processing, but it's still a little daunting. And I can't scan anything but 35mm on my scanner. There is a pro shop in the next town over that does scanning, but only at 300 ppi. I'd really like a much higher resolution. Otherwise, what's the point? But, I can print up to 13x19 at home (and I really need to do more printing, to keep my printer working).