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Nikon FM2 eyecup fitting


josephcollins

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I saw an old thread that came close to this issue. I have an FM2 and I would like a rubber eyecup for it. I purchased the DK-3 but cannot get it to install. Further inspection shows there is no ridge on the camera to fit into the slot on the eyecup (please excuse the overly technical language :-) ). See the attached pictures please and give me some advice if you can. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I'm certain that I am missing something.IMG_4202.thumb.JPG.98699fcfc606f6ff0f2215f6964037ad.JPG

 

IMG_4201.thumb.JPG.75fa4e4e59db80221b5342229adadaa4.JPG

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Yup. You need the blank (0 dioptre) eyepiece glass to hold the DK-3 in place. All modern ones have a rubberised surround, but the early ones had a knurled metal rim.

 

Anyhow. After obtaining your eyepiece glass - fits FM, FE, FA, FE2 and FM2 to name just a few - you offer the DK-3 up to the camera 'spout' with cutout downward, and screw the glass eyepiece cover in to hold everything in place.

 

The flap at the bottom of the DK-3 can be folded up to allow the back of the camera to be opened without removing the eyecup. It has to be oriented quite accurately before this can happen.

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In the posted photo(s) I see a camera with no eyepiece installed. Nothing is "backwards" except for the image of the backside of the eye cup. Joseph did not mention having an eyepiece at all so my guess is that is what is missing here.

 

It looks to me like he has a "blank" ring that could be fitted with a rubber bumper or whatever that's installed backwards.

 

Normally you have bare chrome threads.

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For whatever reason, I had the stupid idea stuck in my head that the threads were on the outside of the eyepiece...

 

Yes, as others have been saying, what you have now is a "naked" eyepiece. Don't try to remove it(despite my earlier advice).

 

You need SOMETHING to screw into it to retain the eyecup. In the past, Nikon made a plain ring with a rubber bumper that could be used.

 

The part you need now is a 2925, which is a plain screw-in eyepiece(with glass). Do NOT get a DK17 or 2424. The latter is for the F3HP, F4, F5, D1 series, N90, and F100. The former is meant for round eyepiece cameras from the F6, D2 and later series cameras(they are both larger in diameter than the 2925, and the DK-17 has a locking mechanism to keep from coming out.

 

Alternatively, you can use a screw-in diopter if you wear glasses, need simple vision correction, and want to avoid wearing them with the camera. Be sure you are buying diopters meant for FM and FE series cameras(ones indicated for the F, F2, low eyepoint F3, and Nikkormat series will also work). The correct diopter to use is the number on your eyeglass prescription for your shooting eye -1-or in other words if your glasses specify +3 in your right, and you shoot with your right eye, get a +2.

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A bit of trivia that may be of interest to some: A "blank" eyepiece is not the same as a zero diopter eyepiece, as was implied by a poster above.. A zero diopter eyepiece has a diopter factor that, when combined with the built-in diopter of the camera, equals zero. I found this out the hard way when using FM2's and FE2's back in the 80's and 90's. With my new and very strong prescription eyeglasses, I could not see clearly enough to focus with my Nikons. At the advice of my ophthalmologist i bought "zero diopter" eyepieces for my cameras (the cameras that did not have adjustable diopters) and that solved the problem.
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  • 4 months later...

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