How did this happen; I think I know the answer

I developed a roll in Ilfosol 3 (1-9) and the negatives came out very thin. I know they were exposed properly and have no issues with the camera. I think the problem is that the chemicals are old. However, I developed a roll of 35mm last week with the same batch of chemicals and everything was fine. To scan the negative I had to adjust the levels to bring out the picture. It came out ok but very flat. I can hardly make out the writing on the edge of the negatives. Just to be sure, I shot a roll yesterday and developed with Ilfotec DD-X (1-4) with normal results. If chemicals past the shelf life is correct, how can I know this before developing? I did notice that the Ilfosol was dark yellow. Is this an indicator? Here is an example of what I'm seeing with a shot of the negative and the resulting scan.

Read the labels & instructions which come with the chemicals to determine if they are past shelf life. I prefer one shot developing and have assembled the proper chemicals to facilitate that. My Rodinal seems to last forever.

If the writing on the film edge is faint then the film is underdeveloped. +1 for 1 shot developers--developers degrade much more quickly than any other photo chemistry when mixed at proper strength and used to develop film unless properly replenished. Replenishment only makes sense for high volume usage, like a commercial lab. The yellow color you mention, if that is different from the way it looked when first mixed, is probably a good clue that it is near exhaustion and won't work well. In the long run, photo chemicals are cheap compared to the cost of film and the value of your time and the possibly unique images that you won't be able to retake.

My experience as well.

If you are not going to use the developer in the next 1-2 days, get rid of it. Compared to many other things Developer is rather inexpensive.

A LOT can change from one week to the next.

Ilfosol is infamous for 'going off' quickly and without warning. It used to be my favourite developer until I had a couple of experiences like yours. The dark yellow colour should have been a warning though.

 

Ilford (Harma) are supposed to have re-formulated it to prevent the sudden death syndrome - apparently not.

 

I'd abandon it in preference of HC-110 or something else more reliable.

Thank you for the advice. I was expecting a slight decline and not a sudden death. I generally only develop 1-2 rolls a week. Guess I'll start mixing less and more often. I've only had experience with three developers; D-76, Ilfosol 3, and now trying Ilfotec DD-X.

The only reason i switched from ID-11 (D76) to Ilfotec HC was the ease of use. I think i prefer the ID-11, but time will tell.

Anyway, i mixed up the 1 Gallon/5 Liters of ID and had no problem storing it for 6 Months.

I THINK they sell a 1 liter bottle.?

You should be able to store that 1+1 for many months.

Sorry if i missed it, but make sure you use distilled water for the developer.....paper and film.

Good Luck

The only reason i switched from ID-11 (D76) to Ilfotec HC was the ease of use. I think i prefer the ID-11, but time will tell.

Anyway, i mixed up the 1 Gallon/5 Liters of ID and had no problem storing it for 6 Months.

I THINK they sell a 1 liter bottle.?

You should be able to store that 1+1 for many months.

Sorry if i missed it, but make sure you use distilled water for the developer.....paper and film.

 

I have never used ID-11, but I've found that D-76 ages pretty gracefully and gives you plenty of warning if it's going to die.

 

BTW, I've never bothered with distilled/DI for mixing chemistry. I only use it for the final Photoflo rinse.

Developers are reducing agents with an affinity for oxygen. The developer is mainly water and water always contains dissolved oxygen. The natural tendency is for the developing agents to take on oxygen. All developing agents are a cousin of benzene. This chemical was initially extracted from coal. When the developing agent oxidizes it reverts to coal tar and the solution darkens, maybe turns black. This should cause an alarm bell to sound in your head. Dark developer fluids are likely expired. The developer formula contains a preservative that slows down oxidation. Further, the preservative reacts with staining compounds and neutralizes them. After a time the preservative gives up the ghost. Now you need to discard and max a fresh batch. You can always test. In the light cut off a snippet of film, perhaps the tongue. Swish it in small sample of the developer. You can watch as the test film develops and turns black. If this happens in the time normally allotted, the developer is likely OK.

I'll have to keep a close eye on my new batch of developer. I'm trying Ilfotec DD-X for the first time. I'm quite pleased with the results. I had almost no white developer spots. This could be due to the longer developing time (12 min vs. 5 min) and more agitation. Regardless it looks good to me.

 

I have never used ID-11, but I've found that D-76 ages pretty gracefully and gives you plenty of warning if it's going to die.

 

BTW, I've never bothered with distilled/DI for mixing chemistry. I only use it for the final Photoflo rinse.

It PROBABLY varies from one locale to the next. I do not know if the Developer actually goes bad faster, but it Does Look Better, for longer, when i use distilled water.

Plus, at 93 cents for a gallon, just for the developer mix, the price is a non-issue.

Is it needed.? You might be right, it might not be. But it is so cheap, and like i say, it takes longer for the developer to get Dirty/Orange when i use distilled, that it is just a habit at this point. :)

"Sorry if i missed it, but make sure you use distilled water for the developer.....paper and film."

 

I've always used particulate filtered tap water with no negative (pun intended) results.

 

Many of Kodak's developer formulae contain(ed) a sequestering agent specifically to deal with dissolved water hardness and other contaminents.

 

IME, it's particulates - i.e. dust and other suspended insoluble material - that's the major issue. The slight change in pH caused by hard or soft tap water and its additives causes no real problem. Most water authorities carry out regular checks to ensure the pH of their public supply stays very close to neutral.

 

In short, fit a <5 micron particle filter on your darkroom tap and you'll be fine. Using distilled water for the wash gets tedious and expensive!

Remembering back, I bought these chemical bottle that were expandable. As you used the chemicals, you collapsed the bottle removing air. I know 35mm has pre-exposed film maker marks. If they come out light, then the chemicals or developing was not right. That was proof of the camera stores' correct developing, and a problem with the exposure. Not totally sure about 120 film. Even one-shot developing from a liquid can cause problem from oxygen in the bottle, hence the collapsible ones. But they should last a few week in a light tight bottle.