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Film Camera Week for May 4


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Greetings everyone and welcome to our new thread. As always, post all the images you want from your film camera. I'll start with some images from a roll of Ilford HP5+ that I processed and scanned earlier in the week.

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Late afternoon outside bookstore, Minolta XE-5 with 35mm f 2.8 MD Celtic, deep yellow filter

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ready for trailer, XE-5 with MC Rokkor 50mm f 1.7

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late afternoon sun outside Olive Garden, XE-5 with 35mm MD Celtic

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iron pig, XE-5 with 50mm f 1.7

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Chevelle (a '72 I think) Parking so congested I couldn't get a view of whole car, XE--5 with 50mm

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First photo on an Agfa Billy Compur. Raw and out of focus scan made with an HP G4050 scanner (i plan to get an Epson V550). Development problems (plan to sell my stainless steel tank and get a Patterson - i have no talent for winding spools!). All photos on the roll seem under exposed. This was shot I believe at f/11 and 1/250. Other shots at f/16 1/400 have similar underexposure. I used a Nikon F2 with a 50mm lens as a light meter and distance checker. Ilford HP5+ 400 film (50 or 100 ASA film would be better). How many stops would you say that this is underexposed by? Thanks!

 

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Edited by escuta
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First photo on an Agfa Billy Compur. Raw and out of focus scan made with an HP G4050 scanner (i plan to get an Epson V550). Development problems (plan to sell my stainless steel tank and get a Patterson - i have no talent for winding spools!). All photos on the roll seem under exposed. This was shot I believe at f/11 and 1/250. Other shots at f/16 1/400 have similar underexposure. I used a Nikon F2 with a 50mm lens as a light meter and distance checker. Ilford HP5+ 400 film (50 or 100 ASA film would be better). How many stops would you say that this is underexposed by? Thanks!

 

[ATTACH=full]1243932[/ATTACH]

The way to deal with stainless steel reals is to sacrifice a roll of film and practice in the daylight. I am not sure about the exposure because if everything was working correctly you shouldn't be that far off.

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I'm also still using a HP Scanjet G4050 with Vuescan. I hated the HP scanjet software and could never get it to give me good results. Once I started using Vuescan I got much better scans.

Otherwise I'd guess your about 1 or 2 stops off...which is weird as shutters generally never get faster when they malfunction (with exception of some battery dependent cameras).

Maybe it was a development issue?

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Thanks James and Rick. James, I've done lots of practice with both 35mm and 120 film. Can't seem to get it right. I used a Patterson tank years ago when I was 15, I remember it worked then so it should I think be as easy for me now. Rick, due to the exchange rate here, the Vuescan software is almost a third the price of a new V550, plus my G4050, as of recently, is producing a long streak in the scans and is very slow, so i think it's time for an upgrade. All the best!
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Otherwise I'd guess your about 1 or 2 stops off...which is weird as shutters generally never get faster when they malfunction (with exception of some battery dependent cameras).

Maybe it was a development issue?

 

Perhaps and yes it is weird. I used the same batch of chemicals as with a roll of 35mm HP5+ last week and same development time (the 35mm roll showed perfect exposure). The only thing I changed was that I fixed for about 9 minutes instead of about 7 - I don't think that would do anything, would it? The developer was fresh and the Kodak fixer only used twice before. And the camera/light meter was definitely set at 400 ASA. Development time for this roll and the last was 14min 40sec for both (should be 13min but i increased to compensate for a 5% error in the developer dilution).

Edited by escuta
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Greetings everyone and welcome to our new thread. As always, post all the images you want from your film camera. I'll start with some images from a roll of Ilford HP5+ that I processed and scanned earlier in the week.

[ATTACH=full]1243915[/ATTACH]

Late afternoon outside bookstore, Minolta XE-5 with 35mm f 2.8 MD Celtic, deep yellow filter

[ATTACH=full]1243916[/ATTACH]

ready for trailer, XE-5 with MC Rokkor 50mm f 1.7

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late afternoon sun outside Olive Garden, XE-5 with 35mm MD Celtic

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iron pig, XE-5 with 50mm f 1.7

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Chevelle (a '72 I think) Parking so congested I couldn't get a view of whole car, XE--5 with 50mm

I've always wondered about those Celtic-badged lenses. Being a "Mick" and having grown up in the Larry Bird era in Boston, Celtic is a word that jumps out at me, but I don't associate it in any way with Japan. Seems like an odd choice of name on Minolta's part. But, mostly, I've wondered why they had the separate line, and if it was their budget line. It seems to perform well, though.

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Hello again. . from the romp thru China Town last Saturday. Fed-2 / Jupiter-8, UFX400, OA & V600 scan. Aloha, Bill[ATTACH=full]1243964[/ATTACH]

I like the photo, but I'd never have guessed it was Chinatown. I see nothing out of the ordinary.

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davecaz- Celtic lenses appear to have the same optical formula as the Rokkor versions, but exterior cosmetics are not as fancy. In some cases the Celtic lenses may have an older version of Minolta's lens coatings. The Celtic lenses were marketed to keep potential customers from going to Vivitar/Kiron/Sigma/Soligor etc. because the Rokkors were too expensive. Probably why Yashica offered the less expensive YUS lenses over the ML series.

A few older images to keep things moving.

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Hermione, Minolta SLR with 100mm f 3.5 MC Rokkor macro, Rolleipan 25 with flash

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high water from a few years back. Minolta SLR, same film

 

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Tesla coil at McWane Center, Olympus XA-2 (propped on chair) TMAX 400

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Thunderbirds, Yashica FX-3 Super 2000, Tokina 70-210, TMAX 400 (scanned from print)

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Some frames from a length of Arista EDU Ultra 100 through a Nikkormat FTn, using a Tamron Adaptall II 35-70mm CF Macro f/3.5 lens (Model 17A). The film was developed in PMK Pyro and scanned on an Epson V700 Photo using Silverfast SE software.

 

Pond

 

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Cottage

 

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Pioneer Cemetery

 

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Open

 

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Iron Work

 

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Falconers

 

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