Frustrated trying to roll 120 film around stainless steel real

WRT to stainless-it's one of those things that once you "have it" you never want to go back to plastic reels.

 

I'm in the camp that never uses the clip. I just tuck the first little bit in the center and go from there. 120 film is short. It takes me probably 30 seconds to load it on the reel. Once you have the motion down, the reels just sort of load themselves.

 

I'll add the caveat that you MUST have straight, unbent reels. Bent ones will never load correctly.

 

Good fresh plastic loads easily enough, but I find that it picks up chemicals and it never gets completely clean. Also, as others have mentioned, the reels must be absolutely bone dry. After a few loading sessions, you'll probably want to use a toothbrush with some soap to scrub them, then rinse in warm water to get all the soap off to keep things loading smoothly.

Here's something that I found that I don't like about the plastic reels in the plastic tank.

 

The plastic wheels are much larger than the stainless steel reels it takes 590 ccs to develop one roll of 120 in the plastic tank with the plastic real it only takes 300 cc's in the stainless steel single tank with a stainless real that's a lot of difference in chemicals alone.

 

I'm returning the plastic tank and I'm going to learn how to load the stainless and just not use the clip.

You've seen the light :)

It depends which tank system you are using. The Jobo 1510 has a 250ml volume for one 135-36 film. The 1520 has 485ml volume for 2x 135-36 or 2x 120 roll films. Further you have to take notice of the minimum amount of concentrate necessary for developing one film. So a very small volume tank is not always an advantage.

Suggest using Rokunar plastic reels. Best I've found, seems much easier to use than other plastic reels or stainless." Adjusts to 35mm, 126, 127, 120 & 220 film sizes."

SS 120 reels that I know of are close to 500ml.

 

Some plastic reel/tanks need a little more, but not a lot more.

 

My first tank, a Yankee II, is also close to 500ml for 120.

 

I also have a plastic reel that can load inside out (it has a

metal hook on the inside) or outside in (usual plastic reel

way). I used to use it for 116, but I now have a Nikor 116 reel.

I'm completely happy with my plastic reels and plastic tank I'm not going to even mess with stainless steel I find plastic ones very easy to load.

I'm completely happy with my plastic reels and plastic tank I'm not going to even mess with stainless steel I find plastic ones very easy to load.

 

Whatever works for YOU, is the best solution.

Now go shot and develop :)

Years and years and years ago I used to develop film I used to be able to load 120 reels like it was nothing 25 years later I can't even do it it's like don't even know how to get it underneath the clip looking for tips and advice.

 

I've been using Nikor tanks (and reels, of course) since 1970 for 35mm. I haven't had a bad reel load for a very, very long time (read 10 years).

 

I find that I am completely (perhaps, congenitally) unable to load 120 film into a Nikor reel without ruining one or more frames with kinks/halfmoons.

 

I've gone over to Paterson-type plastic reels for 120mand my loading problems have gone away. I've processed roughly 200+ rolls of 120 without a bad load. (I don't do things blindly, if it seems the reel load had a problem, I remove the film and load it again).

Wendell,

It is trickier because the 120 film is wider, it will flex easier than 35mm film.

- Is the reel a Nikor or 3rd party reel?

- How smooth is the finish of the wires?

- Could the reel have been dropped and knocked out of alignment?

- Were you using the center clip? I do not use the clip on 35mm nor 120 reeks, as it gives me more centering and kinking trouble than it is worth.

 

In the end, use what works for you.

I love the plastic reels, but as stated, you need to have them completely dry when you load the film. Over time they will build up an invisible layer of developer, photo flo, whatever, and you will need to take a tooth brush and some vinegar and clean them up. You'll know when it's time to clean them.....it usually happens when the film wants to stop going onto the reel about 3/4 through.

 

Most plastic tanks have the fill levels for different formats on their bottom. If you aren't doing stand development, you want to load a 35mm reel onto the top of the 120 reel so that the chemicals don't slam over the film during inversions and cause streaks and worse.

When loading a stainless reel, without the curved metal load device, you should be able to feel when the film goes the wrong way.

That is, when it crosses over the wires to the wrong track.

 

Using the curved loader, it is easier to keep the right amount of curve, but harder to feel when it goes the wrong way.

I've been doing it wrong for years :D ! I simply push the 120 film in from the outside and tap the roll any time it

hangs up , lord knows , if I can do it anyone can and it's really simple by feel ! Peter

Years and years and years ago I used to develop film I used to be able to load 120 reels like it was nothing 25 years later I can't even do it it's like don't even know how to get it underneath the clip looking for tips and advice.

 

I have been getting back in the swing of doing this as well, although to me the 120 film is far easier than the 35mm stuff. Seems the big trick is to make sure the film is clipped in the center of the roll, and isn't pulling off to an angle. Two tricks I use to try to get this right: once I think I have the film end clipped in place, I use my thumb and middle finger to feel along the outside of the reel to try to tell if the amount projecting out from the spirals is the same on each side. In addition, I will try to unroll about 10-12 inches of the film off the spool and see if it feels like it's pulling or angled off to one side or another. I also listen carefully for little "snaps" which can indicate a kink, and if I think I have one, I gently feel the film surface (which should be the backing side) of what's already rolled to make sure there are no kinks in place, otherwise I will unwind it at least one revolution past the kind and start again.

SS 120 reels that I know of are close to 500ml.

 

Based on my 32-oz (~1.8L) stainless steel Honeywell Nikor tank, I use 4 of the 120 reels then throw in an empty 35mm on top to keep them from banging around during my agitation cycles. That comes out to about 400mm volume for each 120 reel.

Exactly what Stan said. Also, when feeding the film on, pinch it very gently so it forms its own curve when going on. After a couple of turns, if its not loading properly, you can wind it back on to the film spool and start again. Hewes tanks take 425ml of solution from memory for 120.

Do NOT use the clip.

The problems is, you MUST position the film perfectly under the clip, or it will roll at an angle and kink.

I put the film in the center, not using the clip, hold the film with a finger and the film will self-center as I start to roll. It takes a bit of practice but once you get it, it works for both 35mm and 120/220 films.

 

He he, different strokes. I find plastic reels harder to load than stainless steel reels.

 

My advice as well. I avoid the clip on a 120 Hewes reel and just drop the film down into the center.

120 reels have thick enough wire that they aren't all that hard to get the film in the right path.

 

220 reels, which have wire the size of 35mm reels, are I suspect harder.

 

I never had a 35mm reel with a clip, so never had that problem.

My first try with a 120 reel I didn't use the clip, but during development the film

started to move into the center. After that, I used the clip.

Many years ago, when I used a plastic JOBO, we used to rub a wax candle on the rails. It worked very well

Many years ago, when I used a plastic JOBO, we used to rub a wax candle on the rails. It worked very well

Silicone furniture polish works well too, and might be a bit quicker to apply.

 

However, I find Jobo reels among the best for ease of loading, especially the larger diameter ones.

 

WRT stainless reels, there are some very poor designs out there. If possible, audition your reels before buying. Some have the 'pusher' of the clip positioned so that it's under the film, and the film has to be kinked over it. This is a very bad design IME. I've found that versions where the clip can be easily operated from the side opposite to the film feed are much better and easier to load.

 

Also, there are clip-less designs of 35 mm reel that just have two prongs to catch a pair of sprocket holes. These are an absolute joy to load and use. The ones with clips, or worse, slots and spikes, are to be totally avoided.

Edited March 14, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

The trick is to hold the film several inches from the end and bend it slightly so the rails will position end of film in the middle when sliding it toward the open clip.

 

Yes. The question is, how much bend (curve). There are metal guides that put the right amount of curve in the film, but they tend to get lost. As explained by my grandfather 50 years ago, once you get used to it, it is better not to use the guide. I used it a few times, got used to it, and it is now lost. My 120 reel didn't come with one, but I have a 116 tank that has one. A little too much curve usually doesn't cause problems.

 

Just to be sure, you hold the film in a curve shape the whole way in, not just when putting it in the clip (if any).

I bend the film (so the apex of folded film pointing away from center of reel) to pass it to reach the clip. Yes, I hold the film in a curve shape the whole way in, not just when putting it in the clip.