Mamiya C33: How do I change lenses from 80mm to 180mm?

I've been able to remove the 80mm but it seems the 180mm won't go on correctly. Am I missing something?

TIA!

Ray

There's a very specific order for changing the lenses on the C33/C330's.

Insure the focusing knob has been turned so the lens mount is completely retracted into the body. Be sure the rewind crank is turned so it's completely in the body. Be sure the dial on the left side of the body is set to "Unlock". Press the locking lever back and down to release the current lens. Once removed, the 180mm lens should set completely in place. Just reverse the locking lever, reset the dial to "Lock", and you should be in business.

Are you sure you have the correct lens for the C33?

Follow this link and scroll down to the section headed compatibility.

It's widely reported that all C lenses fit all C bodies, but I don't think this is correct.

Are you sure you have the correct lens for the C33?

 

Follow this link and scroll down to the section headed compatibility.

It's widely reported that all C lenses fit all C bodies, but I don't think this is correct.

Thanks for the link. It appears that the lenses with Seikosha shutters aren't compatible on the C33 and later. I'd only used the C33 and C330 models with "black" (Seiko shutter) lenses.

Hi Rodeo_Joe, Unfortunately your link is not active/there. :(

Here is my camera... The small tab on the right side of the taking lens (next to the 1/60 second mark) is what is interfering with the 180mm lens.

Here is the 180mm lens. Dennis do you know if this is one of the 'black' seiko shutter lenses that should work?

I've been doing more research and I think the lens I purchased unfortunately is definitely incompatible with the c33. Instead I really need this kind of lens...

It's too bad there isn't a chart somewhere with this info along with an easy method to identify the different kinds of Mamiya TLR lenses.

Hi Rodeo_Joe, Unfortunately your link is not active/there. :(

 

Here is my camera... The small tab on the right side of the taking lens (next to the 1/60 second mark) is what is interfering with the 180mm lens.

 

Here is the 180mm lens. Dennis do you know if this is one of the 'black' seiko shutter lenses that should work?

The 180 pictured has a Seikosha-S shutter. I believe that's one of the earlier 180 lenses, not compatible. The nomenclature states 18CM. The compatible lenses will be marked 180mm

The 180 pictured has a Seikosha-S shutter. I believe that's one of the earlier 180 lenses, not compatible. The nomenclature states 18CM. The compatible lenses will be marked 180mm

Hi Dennis,

I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge about this. So I checked the pictures of the he 2nd lens I posted, and it also has 18cm in its name rather than 180mm, but yet it has that tab for the shutter lever. That won't work either?

Also, I noticed they sell 180mm masks. Are those necessary to use a 180mm lens on the c33?

TIA again!

Ray

The mask is only needed if you often use the "sportsfinder" direct-view frame embedded in the waist level hood (the front cutout folds down and you look thru the little square opening in back for unreversed framing). The built-in cutout is for the 80mm lens, Mamiya sold smaller masks that fit over it for the tele lenses (and glass wide-angle masks). I don't think anybody uses these today: if you need to cover fast action sports, you're probably not using a TLR. The mask is unnecessary for normal viewing with waist level or prism finders.

The auto-cocking bodies like the C33 cannot use every 180mm lens ever made for the system, because certain older versions foul the shutter cocking lever (as is happening in your case). The C330 was modified to be slightly more compatible, but it too has problems with older 180mm lenses and they should be avoided.

The lens you have now is an ancient manual-cocking 18cm with no provision for auto-cocking at all, so the barrel base cannot fit past the body cocking lever. Return it or sell it. You need a version like your second example, with a cutout in the right side of the barrel with silver cocking extension arm. Even with these, you can run into issues because the first auto-cock versions didn't work quite right, and tended to drift out of alignment long before you got your hands on one. The only 180mm lenses I'd recommend for a C33 or C330 are the final all-black versions (with shutter speed set by black handle on the right side, shutter speed and aperture markings NOT visible from the front, NO chrome ring marked "Seikosha").

There were two variations of black 180mm: one is simply marked "180mm", the later improved version is marked with a red "SUPER" next to the 180mm. The Super is a fantastic piece of glass: many feel it equals the hideously expensive Hasselblad Zeiss 180mm. Because of this reputation, it commanded a premium over the "plain" 180mm, but in recent months I've seen prices crater thru the floor- they're going for a pittance now on eBay (often for the same price as the plain 180mm). The Super is less common so you might find more listings for the plain 180mm: this can be a great bargain (many clean ones go for $50 or even less). The non-Super 180mm is a perfectly fine lens, just a different formula (similar to how Nikon changed the formula for their legendary 105mm f/2.5 from Sonnar to Gauss: most people can't tell them apart).

Examine any Mamiya lens you acquire very carefully for fog, haze and fungus: the interior surfaces of the 180mm are especially prone to this (I need to clean my 180mm of a weird accumulated haze every six months to a year). Mamiya TLR glass finds ways to self-decay that I've seen with no other camera system: you really need to keep on top of them and clean any fog or haze as soon as you notice it. Mostly its harmless, but if left too long the haze destroys the coatings. Note I'm not speaking of fungus but haze from shutter lubricants, which typically deposit on the glass as a pattern of streaks. A 105mm DS or 180mm Super can go from crystal clear to milky in a matter of months, Fortunately they are easy to open and clean.

...the later improved version is marked with a red "SUPER" next to the 180mm. The Super is a fantastic piece of glass: many feel it equals the hideously expensive Hasselblad Zeiss 180mm. Because of this reputation, it commanded a premium over the "plain" 180mm, but in recent months I've seen prices crater thru the floor- they're going for a pittance now on eBay (often for the same price as the plain 180mm). The Super is less common so you might find more listings for the plain 180mm: this can be a great bargain (many clean ones go for $50 or even less). The non-Super 180mm is a perfectly fine lens, just a different formula (similar to how Nikon changed the formula for their legendary 105mm f/2.5 from Sonnar to Gauss: most people can't tell them apart)...

Well stated!

Thanks all. I will be selling the one that doesn't fit. It is literally in Mint condition & includes a leather case if anyone is interested. :)

I already purchased a 180mm Super (just $75) as soon as I discovered it was an incompatible lens and figured out the difference. I did not see a red SUPER next to the 180mm marking so I hope the one I'm getting is in fact the Super model as the listing indicated.

Also the new one I've purchased with the cocking lever does say 18cm versus 180mm so perhaps it's an older version although the seller (reputable camera shop) indicates it is a Super version.

.

The Super lenses are all marked 180mm, never 18cm, have the word SUPER engraved in red on the front rings, and the top of the viewing lens barrel has "180" engraved in red. The all-black "18cm" is the same as the later all-black non-super 180mm. At this late date, condition/clarity of the glass is more significant than super vs non-super (a very clean non-super will out-perform a dodgy super). Assuming the lens you bought for $75 is all-black and really clean, you will be happy with it.

Well the seller (roberts camera) did not know what they were talking about. It is certainly not the SUPER model. But that said it was inexpensive for even the non-super 180mm lens which I'm seeing are all going for more than what I paid for this lens.

What's involved with removing the rear element on the viewing lens? This one appears to have some fungus in that lens. None in the taking lens fortunately.

TIA!

Ray

Two of the best things about Mamiya TLR glass: A) its dirt cheap and B) its (usually) very easy to open up for DIY cleaning.

The rear element modules simply screw off, as do the front, but the front can be a little harder due to the plastic figure-8 friction bracket bracing the two front barrels together. Of the many lenses I've owned and sampled, I'd say roughly 70% were easy-peasy to unscrew, 30% were moderately difficult, and only one (a nice 105mm DS) had front barrels that were utterly impossible to remove.

Given how old most of them are, and how prone they are to fogging etc, I'd estimate more than half have already been opened previously for cleaning. In such cases, simply grasping the barrels firmly with your bare fingers should be enough to unscrew them. Barrels that resist your bare hands will require more gripping force: here you'll need rubber or silicon grasping tools to provide more leverage without scraping or scratching the barrels. More often than not, the cheap clear latex utility gloves you can buy at the dollar store in pkgs of 50 will offer sufficient grip.

Start with the rear barrels first: you turn the outermost cylinder, NOT the flange on the lensboard each cylinder screws into. Once removed, any fog-haze-fungus is usually located on the exposed inner surface of the rear module, or the inner surface of the front module. If its simply debris in the front part, hold the shutter open on "B" setting and use a blower to clear it out. If its something more sticky like haze, you'll need to remove the front barrel to get to it. Of all the TLR lenses, the 180mm has the easiest front barrels to get off, but if they're super-tight you may want to consult a professional repair tech.

Unfortunately, haze frequently accumulates on elements sealed inside the front or rear barrels. The only way to get to it is to disassemble the module to remove each individual element. This is doable, but requires great care and sometimes an adjustable spanner wrench. If you're lucky, the dirty element is just inside the outer retaining ring, which you can typically unscrew with a gloved hand and no tools. If the haze is deeper in, access depends on the lens optical design. With some, like the teles, you can get to the inside of the front element simply by unscrewing the element in back of the module and reaching thru the opening. The more complex wide angle lenses are more difficult, requiring retaining rings be removed with the spanner wrench so you can pull out each layered element. It takes skill and steady hands to do this without scratching the glass, and you need to carefully note EXACTLY how each element was positioned.

I've found a microfiber lens cloth dampened with hydrogen peroxide will get nearly anything off Mamiya glass without damaging the coating. Be sure to dry the glass with another cloth, gently wiping away any streaks from the peroxide, before re-assembling the lens module.

Once had a C330, only for a short period though

As I failed to get sharp images with it, and it was in the pre digital era with far less resources to find out why

sold it, and got a Haselblad instead

Did get sharp images with that one, but never liked the camera/system

As a result it has been collecting dust n the back of my closet for well over three decades now

Anyway, back to the original question

Can't answer it from personal experience, but I have a scan of the manual of the C330S on line

Mamiya C330S by Paul K

perhaps that will help you