Nikon F5 will not start up

<p>Hi I have come across a Nikon F5 And a Nikon F3. Both of them appears to be completly dead. I have installed new and fresh batteries in the cameras but noting happens, nothing to see in the LCD panels or in the finder and the shutter cannot fire. Anybody got an idea to where to start looking a solution.<br>

Otherwise The cameras seems fine and in really nice condition<br>

Thank's<br>

John E</p>

<p>Check/clean corrosion in the battery contacts inside the battery housing. This use to be the first step.</p>

<p>The F3 should function on a manual shutter speed, should wind and fire on that setting. If it doesn't I suspect it will need service. I wonder if these two cameras got dropped in water or rained on at some point.</p>

<p>Rick H.</p>

<p>The F3 emergency manual shutter works fine. I dont know if the cameras has been in water, they look really nice and clean both inside and outside.<br>

John E</p>

<p>The F3 needs to be on frame 1 for the meter/electronic shutter to work and to fire on anything other than default shutter speed. If the battery and power switch contacts are good, the lcd should show something when the shutter button is depressed half way to turn on the meter.</p>

 

<p>On the F5, also remove the viewfinder and then clean the electronic contacts between the viewfinder and the body, on both sides.</p>

<p>Does the F5 work with the viewfinder removed?</p>

<p>I have now checked and cleaned the battery contact's. The viewfinder has been removed and all contact points cleaned.<br>

It is still dead, not working with the viewfinder taken off.<br>

John</p>

<p>To the best of my knowledge, the F3 has no tricks; if the battery is fresh, polarity is right and contacts are clean, it should fire.<br /> Make sure the camera switch is in "on" position, and the self timer deactivated (anyway, if activated, it should work with a blinking light before the shutter actuation). Load the shutter.</p>

<ul>

<li>Set a manual speed, like 1/125, and press the shutter release button. If after that, the camera doesn`t fire,</li>

<li>Check the LCD display: Set the speed wheel slector to "A" mode; Is there any speed displayed when you half-press the shutter release button?</li>

<li>If not, we have a real problem.</li>

</ul>

<p>What seem specially odd is that it happens to both cameras, F3 and F5. Where did they came from? Are them from an "As is" list...</p>

<p>It does seem odd that both of these cameras have the same problem. Does the F5 use the 8 AA holder if so check voltage at contact points at the holder. The F5 is power hungry and does not like low voltage or amps. I know you said fresh batteries just an easy simple check though.<br>

With the F3 even though meter dos not function until frame 1, a lcd shutter speed readout should still be visible in the viewfinder when turned on. Aperture setting is visible through a transparent window to the lens. No power needed. Shutter release does require power. Unless you use the mechanical back up shutter release.<br>

With both of these cameras not powering up. It does seem possible that there could have been water damage even if they look clean. Wish I could be of more help. I used to own the F3 and still own an F5 but never had this problem from either camera.</p>

<p>Now the F3 came to live, I little peace of feathering metal in the battery compartment that was to "flat" I pulled it up a bit and now it seems that evrything is working. :-))<br>

The F5 is still dead. :-((<br>

John</p>

<p>Congrats... at least you have saved the good one... :D</p>

<p>And Why would an F5 be the bad one ? </p>

<p>I have both of these cameras since they were new. And if I have to choose only one I would pick the F3 but I feel both of them are great cameras and both have pros and cons. The F5 is certainly not the bad one.</p>

<p>I was just kidding. I also keep the F3, which I like a lot.<br /> The F5 was the first Nikon with a built-in battery grip, and the most powerful driver for AF lenses. But I still prefer the "short body" models.</p>

<p>Hi Interestingly I recently dug out my F5 unused since 2003 or so and it was dead. New AAs nothing, newly charged Annsman NiMH batteries still dead, then I tried some ancient Sanyo NiMH AAs and lo and behold it shows a full charge and works fine!<br>

I think it is fussy about voltages and not all NiMHs are equal. Anyway I ordered some NiZn cells which are 1.6V and will try these also. Anway I expect you have a similar voltage issue. I seem to recall that I could never get it to work with Duracells before, but some NiMH were OK.<br>

It does not seem to be seeing my SB900 except to fire it. The other setting do not seem to be speaking, maybe a clean will help.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>That sounds interresting, I have ordered som NiZn cells. They should arrive in a couple of weeks.</p>

<p>Charles, thanks for posting this no power up issue caused by batteries. I have been searching and searching until i came across this discussion. UNBELIEVABLE how ONE comment might save one's life :) <br>

I am buying a F5 tomorrow and the guy tells me that the camera does not power up, even after installing new AA batts. He doesn't know anything about cameras whatsoever. Would you please be kind to tell us especifically what type of batteries, MODEL number and specs are those Sanyo's that work in your camera?<br>

Thank you so much.</p>

<p>Charles, sorry, i also ment to ask you if you did verify that the batteries were the issue. Did you by any chance try to RE-insert the previous batteries to verify that, that was the case, then when you re-inserted your Sanyo batts the camera kept working okay? Otherwise it would just have been a false contact in the battery compartment.<br>

Thanks again!</p>

I am encountering the same problem with an F5 as OP described now and wondered if the battery update can be posted from anyone here who has tried and succeeded with NiZn or Sanyo (Panasonic) AA batts? Btw, I've tried Sanyo's rechargeable and Duracell regular batts fresh and no luck. The VF is functional and battery tray's no issue whatsoever as tested, and without VF body won't power on either (first thing first, "E" does not appear on top LCD panel before power switch being turned on).

I used to own the F5, and if memory serves, Nikon recommends Ni-MH, Lithium, or alkalines for the power source. And mine was extremely touchy about clean contacts. I kept them clean, and used a fiberglass contact cleaner, and it helped a great deal.

 

Don't know if you'd want to use rechargeables in it, since those voltages vary from nonrechargeables, and the amperage may be incorrect.

 

Just a thought.

If I recall correctly, there is also an issue with the size of the positive end of the battery - some won't work at all. Can't find that in the manual - just says turn the camera off, install Alkaline, Lithium or NiMh. Suggests you should always install an complete set of new batteries.

My F801s (N8008s) apparently died after the batteries went flat. New batteries and cleaning the contacts didn't help.

 

What eventually fixed the problem was to leave the batteries out overnight and insert fresh ones (the same ones I'd tried previously) the next day. Lo and behold the camera sprang to life as if nothing had been amiss.

 

I can only surmise that the low voltage had put the CPU into hibernation, and only a complete drain of voltage was able to reset it.

 

Whatever. Leaving the batteries out for several hours worked for me. YMMV.

I always use the Lithium AA in my F5. Longer lasting, and loghter than Alkaline.

I also use lithium (because when you've got eight, it makes a huge difference to the camera weight). Having seen some batteries drain over time, I leave the battery compartment out for storage, though. So far (not that I've checked for a few months) no problems.