Rapid Focusing Handles and Filters-More Hasselblad Newbie Question

I apologize for posting so many Hasselblad questions over the past few days, but I really feel like I'm in a different world even though I've had 120 SLRs for years. I'll also say that, coming from Bronicas and Mamiyas, the aftermarket cost of some Hasselblad stuff is eye popping.

In any case, all my lenses are the earliest C Chrome lenses. Per the date codes, they range from 1961 to 1964.

My 80mm focus ring is stiff. It's not terrible and is smooth, but the sharp flutes can make it uncomfortable to focus. I had a rapid focus handle for my S2A and liked it, so I'd like to find one for my 80mm(and possibly also my 50mm).

My problem is that when I go hunting for one, it seems a bit daunting to find the specific one needed for a chrome 80mm. Can anyone point me to the part number for this?

Also, once again I'm finding that most Bay 50 filters are Hasselblad branded, and equally expensive. My 50mm, fortunately, uses Series VIII filters. I also have an adapter-not sure if it's home made or not, but it's well executed and nicely parallel-that goes from Bay 50 to Series VIII. I've done done it intentionally, but have picked up a few Series VIIIs over the years from the 72mm drawer at the local camera shop. Considering that basically no one cares about series filters anymore, I think the shop where I bought the camera will more or less give me all I want.

With that said, I'm wondering about a polarizer. Should I just break down and buy a Hassy Bay 50 polarizer, or are there good quality Series VIII polarizers available? Also, please forgive the probably stupid question, but how easy are series Polarizers easy to manipulate? It seems that it would be a constant battle to get them turned correctly, and then risk moving them when you tighten the retaining ring.

Focusing handles are made for C lenses. AFIK lenses with the fluted focusing rings are all the same.

A bayonet filter for Hasselblad is the easiest to use. If you use an adapter, you can't use a lens shade. Bayonet filters fit inside the lens, lens shades on the outer bayonet. The filter doesn't unscrew. You press and turn about 45 degrees.

In general, you must remove the lens shade (or tilt a compendium shade) to manipulate the polarizer. Otherwise, it's easy to set. A B50 filter will fit most C lenses, and a B60 most CF lenses.

Thanks Ed.

Apparently the PO wasn't big on buying the hoods as I I got a nice Kodak Series VIII hood with the outfit. Of course, that's nice for the 50, but it seems a pain for the others.

Polarizers are mostly used for landscapes, and a lens hood improves contrast and saturation when used outdoors. I have a collection of solid lens hoods, but I find the infinitely adjustable compendium hood is more effective, as easy to carry as a single solid hood, and not hard to use in the field. I have adapters for B50, B60 lenses, and even a CF40 (93 mm). It is easily adjusted to accommodate a digital back (1.5x) by setting it to 120 mm rather than 80, for example.

I don't think a polarizer would work well as a drop-in filter. They are threaded (or lugged) with a slip joint so they can be rotated while attached to the lens.

I used an Hasselblad for landscapes for nearly 10 years. Compared to fumbling with threaded filters, I greatly appreciate attaching and detaching filters with a simple twist. I wish more lenses had that feature. Hasselblad filters (actually B+K) are expensive, but only moderately more than threaded filters of that quality. It's fairly easy to find used B50 and B60 filters in excellent condition.

C lenses were last made about 1980, and shutter parts may be hard to get. The focusing ring improves after a CLA, but is never as smooth as in a CF or newer lens. I think they look cool and retro, reminding me of years of ads in National Geographic and Scientific American. However I replaced them all in time, with no regrets.

I apologize for posting so many Hasselblad questions over the past few days, but I really feel like I'm in a different world even though I've had 120 SLRs for years. I'll also say that, coming from Bronicas and Mamiyas, the aftermarket cost of some Hasselblad stuff is eye popping.

 

In any case, all my lenses are the earliest C Chrome lenses. Per the date codes, they range from 1961 to 1964.

 

My 80mm focus ring is stiff. It's not terrible and is smooth, but the sharp flutes can make it uncomfortable to focus. I had a rapid focus handle for my S2A and liked it, so I'd like to find one for my 80mm(and possibly also my 50mm).

 

My problem is that when I go hunting for one, it seems a bit daunting to find the specific one needed for a chrome 80mm. Can anyone point me to the part number for this?

 

Also, once again I'm finding that most Bay 50 filters are Hasselblad branded, and equally expensive. My 50mm, fortunately, uses Series VIII filters. I also have an adapter-not sure if it's home made or not, but it's well executed and nicely parallel-that goes from Bay 50 to Series VIII. I've done done it intentionally, but have picked up a few Series VIIIs over the years from the 72mm drawer at the local camera shop. Considering that basically no one cares about series filters anymore, I think the shop where I bought the camera will more or less give me all I want.

 

With that said, I'm wondering about a polarizer. Should I just break down and buy a Hassy Bay 50 polarizer, or are there good quality Series VIII polarizers available? Also, please forgive the probably stupid question, but how easy are series Polarizers easy to manipulate? It seems that it would be a constant battle to get them turned correctly, and then risk moving them when you tighten the retaining ring.

As a new Hasselblad user myself (and frequent question asker :) ), I've done quite a bit of research lately, and also wanted one of the focusing handles for a 50mm C Distagon.

There appear to be two versions called, reasonably enough #1 and #2 :). I needed a #1, which I believe is appropriate for lenses through the 80mm, with the #2 for the 150 and 250. I think :). There's several open eBay right now ranging in price from $29 to $139.

Thanks guys.

A Hasselblad-brand bay 50 polarizer and hood are on the way-neither was terribly expensive on Ebay, although I settled for some external wear on the hood. I'll stock up on Series VIII for color filters since-as I said-I have the bay to VIII adapter, and I don't seem to have any other option on the 50.

My 80 is definitely in need of service, and as soon as money allows I'm going to send it off. The slow speeds are dead. I'd like to have all of them serviced. I know the 80 is probably the least expensive to replace, but I can't afford some of the others(esp. the 50) right away. Plus, I'd want to have any lens serviced.

I will still need to get a Series VIII polarizer for my 50mm.

A lot of my smaller series filters are Kodak branded, and I've always taken them to be good quality although they are uncoated. Are there other brands I should look at? I'm guessing that most are older so I may not be able to get coated B+Ws or even Tiffens.

BTW, landscapes are my main interest, so polarizers are a must as are the 81 series filters for slide film(I'm a Velvia nut) and at least the basic yellow/orange/red for B&W.

Chinese hoods are much cheaper than Hasselblad branded hoods.

But I found QC and design can be ify with some of the Chinese stuff. I had to shave the hood to fit the school's Canon 18-135 lens, despite the hood being label FOR the Canon 18-135 lens. That was irritating. The hood as delivered could NOT be installed at all :mad:

For an alternative to the series filters, try a B50 -> 52 or 55mm adapter. Then you can use much cheaper and easier to find 52 or 55mm filters. Then you can use your Nikon 52mm filters :)

For my CF lenses, I went the adapter route of B60->67mm filters, to get a basic set of B&W filters quickly. 67mm filters being easier and cheaper to find than B60 filters.

Then I, S_L_O_W_L_Y collected the B60 filters that I wanted, over about 2-1/2 years, when/as I could find them at good prices.

Maybe on a CLA of the lens(es), the tech can use a lighter modern grease on the focusing threads, so that the focus ring will turn easier. Talk to him about this. I've never handled a C lens that had an easy to turn focus ring. Yes it is old, but my similarly old Nikon lenses turn much easier than the C lenses. So I have to think it is the grease on the C lens that is just stiffer, hence the need for the focusing levers.

Ben,

That was only THREE question posts.

I don't consider 3 to be "many."

And I would expect a LOT of questions from anyone changing to a totally new system.

Gary,

Thanks again. Funny enough, even though it is a totally a new system, I've owned and used 3 other leaf-shutter MF SLR systems. Even though they are all different(except for the Bronica ETR and SQ, which are more or less the same camera in different formats) the overall operation feels like they looked at a Hasselblad and said "make it work like this." I think that WAS the goal with the Bronica leaf shutter cameras, especially given their popularity with wedding photographers. The Mamiya RB67 is a bit different, but still things like not removing the lens before cocking the shutter and making sure the cocking state matches on the body and lens is the same as on the 'blad.

In any case, funny enough my 150mm and 250mm are fairly easy to turn. They don't turn as easily as a good, clean Nikon MF lens, but I'd put them about on par with my Bronica lenses. I'll have the 50 and 80 serviced.

Also, I've ordered light seal kits for the backs.