Thing to Check on a 500C

I came home from the camera store yesterday with a 500C outfit-50mm, 80mm, 150mm, and 250mm along with two backs(12 and A12) and a few other odds and ends. It's "on loan" pending me firmly committing to buying it. I really need to let them know by 3:00(EST) but can probably get an extra day or two(especially with the impending weather that also has me home from work today).

 

All the lenses are chrome with Synchro-Compur shutters, and the body is from 1960. So far, I know the 80mm needs a service as the focus feels like it has peanut butter in it and the slow speeds are dead. Otherwise, all the glass is clear.

 

I ran a roll of Delta 100(a film I don't normally shoot, but had a bunch of expired stuff sitting in the freezer) through the A12 back with the 50 and 80, and I'm going to develop that in a few minutes to check registration.

 

Is there anything else I should be aware of before I firmly commit to it? At $1200, the price, IMO, is more than fair considering the condition(nice, but used and all the lenses are engraved). It's also going to mean that I'll be selling my SQ-A outfit on Ebay pretty quickly to buy it.

 

Any advice? Thanks.

Frame spacing and exposure look good-at least the ones where I managed to get it right...

 

I "burned" the first frame by inadvertently mounting the back with the camera not cocked and thus having to advance it.

 

Aside from that, the frames spacing is fine with no overlap and there was definitely room at the start for the first exposure. The only possible concern is that I seemed to have a bit of a light leak at the end of the roll, but it doesn't go into the frame.

 

Looks clean and clear through the images you posted. The light leak at the end of the roll is probably from removing the film from the back and getting the "exposed" tape back onto it and tightly sealing it. I often think I am going to have fog in the beginning as I struggle to get the film on the spool in the beginning of loading it into the back. The usual suspects are the light seals for the dark slide and the best way to test those is to shoot a roll in bright sunlight where you remove the dark slide and replace it after every shot. You'll know in a hurry if those should be replaced once you process the film. Just don't load or unload the film backs in bright light if you can help it. Nice to see you using this classic equipment. BTW, I had my 500C proactively serviced in LA and it cost me as much as the price of another used body! The one downside to owning this stuff is the high cost of maintenance. The other issue I've noticed is that in dark studios it's tough to see all the controls on the lenses and film shot indicators on the backs (but I use 220 backs for 120). I just kept moving into the modeling lights to see it, but it was kind of a pain in the arse.

Thanks Phil.

 

I'm going to get it. Like I said, though, this is going to mean a quick trip to Ebay for my SQ-A.

So, I've just finished shooting my 3rd roll of film and developing my second. The second was also done in the A12 back, the 3rd in the 12 back. I pulled out the "good stuff"-in date FP-4+-for the second and third roll. I've also tested all four lenses, although I didn't get to the 250mm until the 3rd roll. The second is now drying, so I'll take a serious look at it later. It looks good, although I seem to have overexposed it a bit(I went down to EV 14, which is probably a bit low for an ASA 125 film on a snowy day).

 

BTW, looking through the kit, I have some fun other stuff. There's one of the little bubble levels that clips onto the side-something that's already found a home on the camera(after scrubbing off the case foam). I have the sports finder that clips in the same spot and a speed grip.

 

Also, the system came with a Polaroid back, and it's honestly the nicest I've ever seen. It's branded Arca-Swiss, but the entire half of the back looks like it was transplanted straight off a higher end folding Land Camera and says "Polaroid" on the end. It's a shame that my stock of FP-100c is dwindling and I hate to waste it making 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 photos.

 

The system came into the local shop in a hard metal case that I passed on because it had made a mess of the stuff. I have a nice Zero-Halliburton that came with my first SLR(a Canon A-1) and I'm tempted to refoam it and cut it for this outfit.

At $1200, the price, IMO, is more than fair

 

I would agree.

Thanks.

 

My SQ-A(needed to make the money come together for this) is on Ebay at the moment. I'm sorry to see it go as it's served me well. I always was dismissive of mythical qualities that some folks ascribe to them, but there are just so many nice touches on the whole thing that set it apart from my SQ-A. It's hard to describe, but the whole thing just feels more refined.

 

So, out with the old and in with the...even older :)

 

Congrats Ben.

The Hasselblad was a grail camera. It was so far up there that I did not even dream about owning one.

And with digitals, the dslrs have killed the resale price on them.

I picked up a 500c/m + 80CF + A12 back for less than I paid for my D70. I was both happy that I could finally get a Hasselblad, but sad that the resale value of this of all film cameras had dropped so much.

 

The C lenses are cool to look at, but the CF is easier to turn the focus ring, even without a CLA.

 

BTW DIY reseal kits are available for the backs, which should take care of any light leak issues.

As counter intuitive as it may sound.

Always COCK the shutter.

You CANNOT remove the lens if the shutter is not cocked.

 

Similarly, if the shutter on the lens fires while not on the camera, you NEED to recock the shutter on the lens, to be able to install the lens on the camera.

 

The shutter cock coupling on the lens is the round pin with a slot on it.

It mates to a round pin with a screwdriver-like blade on it.

Unless BOTH are horizontal, the lens cannot be removed or installed.