Exposure vs Shutter Speed

Brief anecdote, just one. I bought the Alpine because it looked sharp and I was overseas and saw a sports car in my future. White with red interior. My fiancee loved the look and the rasp of the exhaust. that kind of stuff. So dissolve to the day of my marriage. Heading down the highway 40 miles to the chapel. White steam from the hood and the temperature goes into the red sector. Pull over ( on a Saturday morning) and the attendant says " you got a cracked radiator manifold. " Well ok let us go to a radiator fixer. "Oh, one of those things," says radiator guy..cluck cluck.. Do all the cars like that have hoods that come off hinged from the front- duh, beats me dude.. Finger biting but successfully done... Off to ceremony. Sweating and stressed, but we are young, under 30, Ben.Shoot everybody has a story about the big day. ...I got a few more but not today. Ending later on after a few mishaps on honeymoon natch...Yep, I sold it off to some guy who liked fiddling, enjoyed the roar of the exhaust. I hope he had no reason to cuss yours truly..I hid nothing. ( Company redesigned things after I did their quality control on Mark I model. They eventually popped a V 8 Ford engine in the car and sold it as Tiger. Now if someone gave me a deal on a Miata, I could be sold again, well maybe. I think I could just rent one and be satisfied you know.) postscript. Why do I remember little stuff like Zenith Downdraught Carburetors when I cannot recall where I last set my reading glasses? No do not answer. Edited January 15, 2018 by GerrySiegel

Ok Ben Hutcherson:

Naked Eye Vs Auto Focus so which is really better I have a Nikon D70 DSLR I have never used an AF Lens before I ordered one

Nikon 35-80mm 1:4-5.6D AF Nikkor Lens I do not have it in my possession till Jan. 22 Monday 2018 I do not have $500.00 to $1000.00 to spend for a Lens right now so what are your remarks about this Lens?

That lens will serve you fine on your D70. It gets a bit iffy at higher resolutions, but you should be fine.

 

Also, be aware that you lose autofocus on a lot of newer low end bodies. The D70 will be fine with it, but the D40, D50, D3000 series, and D5000 series are not capable of operating the autofocus on that lens(it requires an in-body focus motor, something that Nikon has steadily been eliminating from lower end cameras).

I'd really recommend a 18-55 or the AF-S 18-70 f/3.5-4.5 (which used to come as kitlens with the D70) rather than a 35-70 for a D70. These lenses cost nowhere near $500, closer to $100 in fact, and optically and functionally they're miles better than the 35-80 zoom.

Another very affordable good lens is the Nikon AF-S 18-105mm VR lens - it can often bve found 2nd hand at very good prices, and it's a very credible performer.

I'd really recommend a 18-55 or the AF-S 18-70 f/3.5-4.5 (which used to come as kitlens with the D70) rather than a 35-70 for a D70. These lenses cost nowhere near $500, closer to $100 in fact, and optically and functionally they're miles better than the 35-80 zoom.

Another very affordable good lens is the Nikon AF-S 18-105mm VR lens - it can often bve found 2nd hand at very good prices, and it's a very credible performer.

 

Very much agreed on these suggestions.

 

The 18-55 in particular is such a great lens for such a great that any DX shooter should have one. The only thing to watch is to make sure you're not getting the newest AF-P version, as it can not be focused(automatically or manually) on a D70.

 

Plus, as you said, a 35mm-xx lens is pretty cramped for DX.

Where do I find Info on the Web what lens not to buy for my Nikon D70 DSLR?

Search for "Nikon Lens Compatibility Chart". Thom Hogan and Ken Rockwell both have decent ones.

 

Here's your short answer:

 

1. Non-AI lenses can not be safely mounted

2. Manual focus AI and AI-S lenses will mount and work, but do not offer metering.

3. AI-P lenses(manual focus with a CPU) offer full metering and automatic exposure. Be sure the aperture ring is set to its smallest setting or the camera will blink FEE and not work.

4. All AF, AF-D, AF-I, and AF-S lenses are fully compatible including metering, exposure, and autofocus. If the lens has an aperture ring (type G lenses do not) you must set the ring to the smallest aperture. Most lenses have a lock you can engage for this.

5. Type E lenses(not series E, the manual focus 1980s lenses) are not compatible. The D70 is not capable of controlling the aperture in these lenses, so they can only work at full aperture. Do not use.

6. AF-P lenses can not focus on a D70. Neither autofocus nor manual focus works on the D70. Do not use.

Sorry to to be unlearned this is my first Digital Camera the only thing I can say about it is there a Manual Focus Macro Bellows that will fit this Nikon D70 DSLR Camera.

Or any AF Macro Bellow that will fit this Nikon D70 Camera Marco can`t be beat I have a Vintage Nikon Nippon F Marco Bellows but I need a 1 1/2" Extension

to make it work do they make anything like that?

Ben:

A AF Lens is better than no AF Lens at all true fact!! I am looking to buy a better AF Lens the 18-55mm has no 28mm setting no 50mm setting so I will look at other lens like a Nikkor AF, f/3.5 28-70mm maybe I can Buy it in Feb.

I'm not following your comment about not having a 28mm or 50mm setting. Zooms are more or less infinitely variable. Even if the setting isn't marked on the ring, you can still set the ring to any position between. Most lenses will even register small changes in the zoom setting.

 

 

Note that the above shows "38mm"-this was a 24-85mm lens, and it registers even single digit changes in the zoom setting.

 

Also, it's worth mentioning that the 18-55 is really like ~27mm-82.5mm lens on a 35mm camera.

Ok I did not know that Thanks!!

what do I use instead of Marco Bellows they will not fit my D70 Camera unless I have a 1 1/2" adapter?

I am not sure what the OP is talking about but I have used the D70s (which isn't much different from the D70) with the Nikon PB-6 bellow and use no adapter. Pre AI lenses are not recommended but I have use them on the D70s without problem. In fact with the D70s Pre AI or AI lens works the same.

The fact that the OP used to use a plain prism Nikon F and a 4x5 then no AF and no meter shouldn't be a problem.

The bellows should mount without a problem. AFAIK, they DON'T have a coupling ridge at all, and don't present a problem.

Genuine Nikon bellows have a revolving mount. To use them on a DX camera, you have to mount them 'sideways' and then rotate them into their normal position using the rotating mount. Otherwise the prism overhang gets in the way.

 

OK, it's not straightforward, but easily doable. No need for any extender tube.

 

There's no such thing as an AF bellows, BTW. However, you can get AF coupled extension tubes for both 'screwdriver' and G type lenses.

 

FWIW, I used a set of Pentax bellows for years on my Nikon cameras. The rear thread of the Pentax bellows detached, allowing a Nikon T-mount to be fitted. At the front end I used an M42 fit macro lens, or various 39mm enlarger lenses via a thread adapter.

Edited January 20, 2018 by rodeo_joe|1

My AF Lens arrived today Jan 20/18

 

35-80mm 1:4-5.6D what good are F-Stops if I can only use f/22 use any other f-Stop, FEE appears and shutter is locked

 

Is there any way to bypass this mode?

My AF Lens arrived today Jan 20/18

 

35-80mm 1:4-5.6D what good are F-Stops if I can only use f/22 use any other f-Stop, FEE appears and shutter is locked

 

Is there any way to bypass this mode?

 

Please read your manual. When you mount a lens with CPU like the one you have on the D70 you have to set the aperture at f/22 and lock it there. You will then set the aperture using the sub command dial (the front control wheel just under the shutter release button). You will see the aperture that you set displayed in the viewfinder and the LCD panel on top.

As BeBu said(and as I mentioned a couple of times previously, CPU lenses MUST be set to the smallest aperture. You can use the lock or not, but leave it there.

 

On higher end cameras you can use the ring if you want, but this does NOT work on the D70. As said, in A or M mode use the front dial to set the aperture and read it off the top LCD.

Rodeo_Joe:

I used Marco Bellows for over 10 years on my 35mm SLR and never knew they had a, Genuine Nikon bellows have a revolving mount.

That issue is resolved now they fit Ok thanks

"..what good are F-Stops if I can only use f/22 use any other f-Stop, FEE appears and shutter is locked."

 

Yes, that's normal. The lens aperture is adjusted from the camera body. The aperture ring on the lens must be set to its minimum aperture to allow this. Otherwise, as you've seen, you get an 'FEE' error message. The FEE message is replaced with the selected aperture number when the lens is set to minimum aperture.

 

All this is explained in the manual. You just have to get used to controlling everything from the camera body without touching the lens aperture ring. There should be a lock 'switch' on the lens to prevent accidentally moving the aperture ring.

Ben H.

Sorry to be such a pain I did not know that I was unable to get the F Stop I wanted in Auto setting but in Manual I can and AF works good.

I been looking in Menu and find no place to disable TTL Metering. Flash will not work in Manual mode using TTL metering.

And thanks to all for you help.

Ben H:

 

Here are two quick pictures I took on a cloudy day. 35-80mm f/4.5 CPU Lens at 80mm f/16 1/125 sec. Secong Mankion 80-200 f/4.5 Manual Lens

 

200mm f/16 1/125 Sec

 

I see my problem was a shutter speed Issue had to adjust my Gossen Pro Light Metter for this Camera now every picture comes out good

 

Over Exposed need to hold Lens open longer.

 

Guess over the years I forgot what I once learned. Question why will a Vivitar 2X-3 Teleconverter not lock in place on a Nikon D70 and a Vivitar 3X will lock in place?

Edited January 23, 2018 by miss.annette_leigh_haynes

Don't go F16 on digital, I think F11 is max you can go, because diffraction will reduce sharpness. Go higher shatter speed instead, 1/250 and up on sunny day.

"I been looking in Menu and find no place to disable TTL Metering. Flash will not work in Manual mode using TTL metering."

 

- Custom ('Pencil' icon) menu item 19 allows you to adjust the flash mode.

Don't go F16 on digital, I think F11 is max you can go, because diffraction will reduce sharpness. Go higher shatter speed instead, 1/250 and up on sunny day.

 

There's no hard and fast rule, and a D70 is low enough resolution that you're PROBABLY splitting hairs.

 

I'm not afraid to go to f/32 on my D800 if I need it for DOF. I can certainly see the loss in sharpness, but the net gain is worth it if it makes the picture work.

You can often compensate for diffraction with digital sharpening - it's easier to deal with than insufficient depth of field, since that is dependent on depth (which isn't recorded in the photo, obviously). However, sharpening operations do increase noise, so I'd still prefer to avoid it where possible. The D70 has much larger pixels than more modern, higher-resolution cameras, which makes diffraction less relevant, but to counter that the pixel accuracy is a bit lower as well.

 

Remember you'll get an extra stop or so of depth of field from a D70 compared with a 135 film camera with the same field of view and f-stop because of equivalence due to the sensor size. A D70's f/16 is a film body's f/22(ish).

 

The main reason I try to avoid small apertures is that it shows up any dust on the sensor, which is annoying. Unlike film, dust sticks to a digital sensor between frames, so hiding it with a larger aperture can be useful.