what kind of cement to use on Fuji viewfinder

My Fuji's viewfinder glass falls off, to be exact, it's a Fuji GS45S. See photo... I'm reluctant to use Super Glue, epoxy or any adhesive that would make the glass more or less permanent. Some folks have suggested rubber cement, but would like some other suggestions. The only rubber cement I have is the kind sold in stationery or art supply stores.

 

Thanks all!

 

Use double-sided tape. It's less messy and doesn't outgas.

 

Do not use superglue (cyanoacrylate adhesive). It outgasses and will cause a white deposit around itself that's very difficult to remove.

 

If you must use adhesive, use a contact adhesive such as 'Bostik'.

[uSER=2403817]@rodeo_joe|1[/uSER] Thanks... I like the idea of double-sided tape. It's readily available, simple and provides all the holding power I'd need. And if necessary for repairs, should be easy to remove. I'll for sure stay away from superglue.

 

(BTW, I'm relatively new here... when I put an "@" in front of your name, do you get an alert?)

I am considering RTV ( silicone rubber) for the same purpose. And let cure in open space for day or two. Edited December 21, 2017 by charles_stobbs|3

Thank you, Charles. Do you mean you also have a Fuji, or at least a viewfinder glass falling off on some other camera? Mine fell off with no warning, but luckily I noticed it was missing soon enough and found it amidst the stones and grass where I was shooting.

 

I looked up RTV on line, but it was fairly expensive for a small tube. Can you point me to where to get this at a reasonable price? Would it be in a hardware store, or automotive supply store, under a different name perhaps?

Use black silicone sealer.

Thanks, Fritz... is there a brand name for that sealer, is it in a tube or... ?

Paul, I am writing from South Africa so this may not apply to the US. Probably will to the UK. What I am referring to is made by BOSTIK. They make different grades of silicone sealer in tubes about the size of a standard toothpaste ditto. The black Bostik is called CAR and seems to be a little heavier than the clear or the white. I hope that helps you.

I have a similar problem with an old Mamiya Six folder. They appear to have used shellac to cement the viewfinder and rangefinder covers and lenses. When I get around to disassembly and cleaning I think I'll use small dabs of nail polish to refix the glass. Have to work quickly but should be easy to remove if I have to.

I've bought silicone sealer at Home Depot recently. I think it does outgas when curing so if possible I would try to put the glass in place dry and then put a bead of sealant on the outside of the glass and against the frame.

Fritz: That does help, thanks. I'll keep an eye out for it here in the US.

 

Charles: I've heard the term "outgas" before but I'm not sure what it means... can you clarify for me? Thnx!

The product gives off some gas (smells like vinegar, in this case) which may settle on the glass giving it a grey foggy look. You can clean it off if it settles on the outside but if any settles on the inside you have to start over.

Thanks, Charles... now I remember where I heard that term. My scanner was giving poor scans and I had it cleaned. The glass had that foggy look and the tech guy said the scanner had outgassing. Made a big difference in my scans.

Paul, the "rubber cement" sold in craft stores, etc. is not the same as "contact cement". Weldwood is the primary manufacture of this product. It does have the "same" liquid consistency as the "rubber cement" but is used as a two surface cement. Both sides of the object in question are given a "light coat" of the liquid, allowed to dry for 5-7 minutes & then "mated". You do need to be accurate with both parts but after the parts make contact, an almost un-removable bond is formed. I have several cameras with glass parts that have not fallen off for over 10+ years. Aloha, Bill

Thanks Bill, but I'm not sure I want a bond that's un-removable - or even close to that. I appreciate your suggestion.

the "rubber cement" sold in craft stores, etc. is not the same as "contact cement".

 

Strongly second that idea

 

Sometimes you have to trade off a little difficulty in removing it when it's done, with the more immediate problem of getting it to "stick" in the first place and staying "stuck".:oops:

 

For removal, there are varying types of solvents, ranging from ineffectual to the all-dissolving...

Thanks... I'll check the contact cement at my local hdwe store.

I found Weldwood Contact Cement at my local hardware store. But I'm having second thoughts. The more I examined the plastic viewfinder frame and the area on the body where it goes, I realize most of frame's tabs were broken off. That's how the frame was originally secured to the body. You can see some of the remaining tabs in the frame's opening in my photo.

 

Now I'm asking the members where I could obtain a new (or used) frame, with all the tabs. I did a quick search on the 'Net with no luck but perhaps someone here knows where to find a new frame.

I have a favorite cement that I use for things like leather coverings and other attachments that must be firm, but might at some time need to be removed again without damage. It''s a substance called "Allene's Tacky Glue," and it's similar to a white glue, but remains somewhat elastic, and sticks things together without clamping. It is not waterproof but it's reasonably strong, and if you need to remove it again, it's relatively easy to do so without tenacious residue. Leatherette coverings stay attached as long as you need, but can be peeled off again with a thin knife and cleaned right up. You can get it at craft stores like Michael's or Joanne, here in the US.

 

For things that can be really stuck down and never have to come off, the best stuff I've found is an auto parts item called 3M Plastic and Emblem Adhesive. It comes in a tube,and it's a bit unruly coming out, but it's very good at its job. If you've ever used "Shoe Goo," this is very similar and smells much the same, except that it is more liquid and keeps better. It will stick just about anything to just about anything else, pretty much forever. It does retain some elasticity, so it's possible to separate parts sometimes, but like rubber cement or shoe goo it may not be possible to do so without damage or to remove all the residue. Available at auto parts stores, probably in the section of paints and adhesives.

Thanks, Matthew, that Allene's Tacky Glue sounds like exactly what I'm looking for! We have both those stores where we live, right across from each other. I'll have to check them out.

Matthew: Just got back from JoAnn's... there was the original cement, kind of a dark tan color, and a clear. evidently newer, version. I opted for the clear. Even though the cement won't show, I thought the natural color was not very attractive. Do you suppose the clear is just as good? Hope so!

 

I'll do the job tomorrow am when I'm fresh and have a cup of coffee in my veins.

Echo the warning about using CA inside of either glass or plastic: you'll have a white mess inside.

Thanks for pointing out the warning. Was the warning you are referring to the one in the post right after my OP? I see two phrases that are CA, one is cyanoacrylate adhesive and the other is contact adhesive. You must mean the cyanoacrylate, right? I think I've answered my own question, but I just want to be sure. Thanks!