Rollei Infrared processing, anyone?

Hello

 

I want to get my hands on some Infrared film, there are 3-packs of Rollei infrared 400 for as low as 24$ and I thought it would be good for a start - a couple of rolls always get busted when I'm trying to learn something new. Anyway, let's get to the point. As far as I've dug into the details, if I am to use a 720 nm filter, I'll have to shoot not at ISO 400, but at ISO 12.

Since there are only two processing labs in my country that can process black and white film and both of them process only films shot either at ISO 100 or ISO 400 (I know, it sounds ridiculous, don't get me started on availability of E-6), I'll have to develop it myself. I have found the chart, which states that I can dilute D-76 at 1+1 ratio and develop the roll for 9.5 minutes if I retain 20 degrees Celsius. But have any of you people developed aforementioned film? What will happen if I change dilution or temperature? Needless to say that I'm a complete zero in chemistry, so any tips? Or should I do this one by the book?

 

Cheers

 

M.

EI changes with filters don't change the development methods.

 

If they can develop it at 400 without a filter, they do it the same if you use a filter.

 

Though you normally don't use an ISO value with infrared film. I suppose for sunlit subjects, it can work.

The Rollei film doesn't go far past 720nm, which is why the low value.

 

However, the development times for different ISO 400 films are different, so they can't really say that they do ISO 100 and 400 without specifying the films.

 

But most likely, it will do just fine, if you really don't want to do it yourself.

 

I have a roll of this film that I haven't tried yet, and also a 720nm filter to try it with.

 

Even more fun, I have some 5R flashbulbs. (But those might be too far for this film.)

Based on what I've read IR films truly aren't any ISO rate-able, but still with different filters one should shoot with different ISO settings. At least Rollei specifically. If I shoot without any filters, I should set it at 400, if I use deep red filter, I should go lower and 720 nm filter requires ISO 12/25 and anything beyond 780 nm is not suitable for Rollei at all.

I shoot Rollei IR film at EI 6.

 

When I develop it, I do 6.5 min at 20º in straight D76. This is a pretty standard set of conditions that will give a useable(if not optimum) image on most B&W film. 9.5 min in 1:1 is effectively equivalent.

 

I prefer to use straight D76 with this film as it's fairly grainy anyway. D76 1:1 does lower contrast, but at the cost of grain.

 

BTW, if you're serious about this film a good filter is a must. I use a Hoya, but a B+W or any other big name filter will work fine. This isn't a "real" IR film, but rather just a film with extended red sensitivity. Generic Ebay filters are questionable. I check all of my filters with a spectrophotometer(I know not everyone has that luxury) and many of the bargain-brand deep red or IR filters are effective from 720nm or whatever their stated cut-off is up to about 500nm then become effectively transparent again-not something you want considering that this is where ALL B&W films are most sensitive.

 

Also, one last thing on filters-since this is an expensive filter, I'd suggest buying it in the largest size you see yourself needing and buy step rings for all of your other lenses. I bought my Hoya R72 in 72mm, and wish I'd gone for 77mm instead.

 

I'll also add that the "buy the biggest size you need" advice is something generally applicable for pretty much all filters, especially other expensive ones like polarizers. If nothing else, it cuts the bulk.

Edited December 25, 2017 by ben_hutcherson

Thank you for your response. I have Neewer filter which performed pretty well on digital camera (with hot mirror removed), but I will consider buying Hoya for the film.

Digital sensors are sort of the opposite of film in that they tend toward IR sensitivity and need "help" to get UV sensitivity.

 

I think this is more true of CCDs than CMOSs, but I haven't actually extensively studied it. My only IR-converted digital is a Nikon D80, which I think is the highest resolution CMOS Nikon made(also used in the D200).

 

Of course, the strength of the IR filter does make a difference. I know that I can get workable IR images out of my D70 with nothing but an R72, although the exposure time is long. I tried several other cameras of the same general age, but couldn't get anything.

I was using several Olympuses (Olympai? Or whatever), from point to shoot to E-620, all were pretty good, once I got rid of hot mirror, I had shutter speeds between 1/15-1/60 in a normal sunny day. Then I switched to Pentax, but kinda started to miss IR again and thought of trying IR film instead of stripping down my digital in order to remove one tiny piece of glass.

Ilford SFX film

Ilford SFX film

And what are objective reasons for using it over Rollei?

And what are objective reasons for using it over Rollei?

 

As a panochromatic film, it has a bit less grain and I think is a bit better behaved.

 

As an almost-IR film, it's splitting hairs but I prefer the Rollei since it has a BIT more deep red sensitivity than SFX 200.

As a panochromatic film, it has a bit less grain and I think is a bit better behaved.

 

As an almost-IR film, it's splitting hairs but I prefer the Rollei since it has a BIT more deep red sensitivity than SFX 200.

 

Well, grain is of no concern, since I'm just an amateur and want to do it merely for fun. But if it becomes an issue I can always shoot on medium format film. And I reckon Ilford will need longer exposures than Rollei.

 

(snip)

 

BTW, if you're serious about this film a good filter is a must. I use a Hoya, but a B+W or any other big name filter will work fine. This isn't a "real" IR film, but rather just a film with extended red sensitivity. Generic Ebay filters are questionable. I check all of my filters with a spectrophotometer(I know not everyone has that luxury) and many of the bargain-brand deep red or IR filters are effective from 720nm or whatever their stated cut-off is up to about 500nm then become effectively transparent again-not something you want considering that this is where ALL B&W films are most sensitive.

(snip)

 

If the filter transmits around 500nm it will be easy to see through.

 

(Note that the eye is sensitive, but at a lower level, down to about 780nm or so.

 

I used to work in a lab with 760nm lasers, and they were easily visible in the scatter off surfaces.

 

And yes, there are many Chinese made filters on eBay for very reasonable prices.