rick_drawbridge Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Some great work being posted this weekend! I'm just back from a week in the electronic wilderness, so my contribution this week is a little late. Here are two images from a Mamiya 645 1000s with the 55-110mm Mamiya Sekor f/4.5 lens. The film was Bergger Pancro 400 developed in PMK Pyro. Fence Feels Like Summer Here's one from a Praktica BX-20 : 35-70mm Pentacon Prakticar f/3.5-4.5 : Arista EDU Ultra 100 : PMK Pyro Tangle Here are a couple from a CZJ Werramatic : CZJ 35mm Flektogon f/2.8 : Arista EDU Ultra 100 : PMK Pyro Much Good Advice in the Carpark A Game of Bowls 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossb Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Experimenting with HC110. Probably a bad idea to experiment with a new developer and then use a red filter. Anyway it's kind of prehistoric looking I suppose. I do not know the old couple and was just taking a snap. My problem with HC110 is to much grain. This one was B dilution for 5 min. Tri-X at 400. Pinnacles National Park. I use the red filter out there a lot because everything has the same shade of grey and the photos are boring. The red is pretty good as the rocks have a lot of red in them and it works out. No tripod. On Sunday I actually saw a guy hiking around with a Fuji 6x8 studio camera. I chatted with him and he said it weighed 15lbs. He said his Hassy broke and the Fuji was only $200.00 so he figured he should just tote it around. He had a nice carbon tripod. It's been years since I have seen a tripod in the High Peaks or a big camera of any type. Because of the red filter and I had to shoot at f5.6 is why the rocks are not in focus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossb Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) My latest attempt with HC110. I am satisfied I have a good system using the developer. This is HP5 at 800 and HC110 B dilution for 7.5min. I am using the twiddle stick instead of invert and turn. I thought one I did not need to spend time compressing the lid on and also the twiddle stick is completely controllable as far as agitation goes. Anyway I am going to just shoot HP5 at 800 for a while until I feel that I have it down and then I will move on to other things. I have a bunch of Tri-X and Acros in MF and I want to use the system for that also.. My data comes from the Illford site for HP5. They are nice enough to include data for Kodak along with their own. So now I only need 9ml of developer for a single roll of 35mm. Just dilute with each roll. I bought a baby feeding syringe at the drug store which lets me aspirate an exact amount of HC110. Anyway just a snapshot of a statue in the back yard. Grain and sharpness observation was my goal. Edited November 28, 2017 by rossb 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 From the Minolta SRT 100 and 50mm f1.9 MC Rokkor Some of my dad's old darkroom stuff- plastic Ansco tank, rubber stamp for photos, and empty paper box He always stamped the black & white photos he made for clients with "Photo by F.J. Gammill. I learned to develop film with a similar tank. For many years Medalist F2 was the paper we used for most of our own work. The single weight glossy would be dried on an electric print drier. The double weight matte finish would be placed between beach towels to dry overnight. quiet afternoon, Minolta SRT 100 with 50mm f1.9, Kentmere 100 A shot of the gear Basic but capable SRT- shot taken with Maxxum 8000i and 50mm f2.8 Macro, Kentmere 100 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Bryant Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 From the Minolta SRT 100 and 50mm f1.9 MC Rokkor [ATTACH=full]1221412[/ATTACH] Some of my dad's old darkroom stuff- plastic Ansco tank, rubber stamp for photos, and empty paper box He always stamped the black & white photos he made for clients with "Photo by F.J. Gammill. I learned to develop film with a similar tank. For many years Medalist F2 was the paper we used for most of our own work. The single weight glossy would be dried on an electric print drier. The double weight matte finish would be placed between beach towels to dry overnight. [ATTACH=full]1221413[/ATTACH] quiet afternoon, Minolta SRT 100 with 50mm f1.9, Kentmere 100 A shot of the gear [ATTACH=full]1221414[/ATTACH] Basic but capable SRT- shot taken with Maxxum 8000i and 50mm f2.8 Macro, Kentmere 100 Brings back good memories. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossb Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 I had a SRT for a while. I thought it was an excellent camera but it wound up moving on down the road in a closet cleaning thing.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald_miller5 Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 My latest attempt with HC110. I am satisfied I have a good system using the developer. This is HP5 at 800 and HC110 B dilution for 7.5min. I am using the twiddle stick instead of invert and turn. I thought one I did not need to spend time compressing the lid on and also the twiddle stick is completely controllable as far as agitation goes. Anyway I am going to just shoot HP5 at 800 for a while until I feel that I have it down and then I will move on to other things. I have a bunch of Tri-X and Acros in MF and I want to use the system for that also.. My data comes from the Illford site for HP5. They are nice enough to include data for Kodak along with their own. So now I only need 9ml of developer for a single roll of 35mm. Just dilute with each roll. I bought a baby feeding syringe at the drug store which lets me aspirate an exact amount of HC110. Anyway just a snapshot of a statue in the back yard. Grain and sharpness observation was my goal. [ATTACH=full]1221371[/ATTACH] I just discovered HC110 recently and for the same reasons you mentioned I can see amy reason FOR ME to play around with other products. I am sure others who are more sophisticated and for good reasons to snub 110 but not at my level Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now