TMAX Reversal Outfit Mixing

I found a bunch of TMAX reversal chemicals in storage at my school and would like to try my hand at them. I am exploring alternative processes to film making besides straight digital video for my senior thesis on Photography and Film so I would love to make reversals of 16mm movie film and 35mm stills. Problem is none of our faculty remember how to mix the chemicals or has any information on it. They come in parts A and B with no information on the label of how to mix or dilute them. Looking online for documentation I have found pdfs from Kodak on the development process but nothing on mixing them, it says to look at the packaging. Apparently that information came with the whole outfit but we no longer have that or any paperwork. I've inserted photos of the bottles as they are the only clues I've got to figuring this out. They come in all shapes and sizes. some of the Part A and Bs are different sizes and some are the same. Notice on the redeveloper bottles where Part A is 8 oz and B is much tinier. Both also say to make 1 qt. Obviously those two together will not equal 1 quart so do I dilute it with more water? And then what about the bleach where each bottle is the same size?

 

And yes I am aware that these chemicals are very old and the bleach is toxic but that's not going to stop me from trying. I know the Photographer's Formulary kit exists but I would rather use the chemicals we have. I also don't have the time and money to be

buying any more new chemicals or shipping my film out. I'd also rather not have to use a process that requires re exposing to light. Any help and experience using this process is appreciated! Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I would have thought it obvious that the A and B bottles should be mixed in whatever ratio the bottles contain, and the mixed parts diluted with water to the stated total quantity.

 

If the bottles are unopened, then the ratio of A to B will be the same as those of the bottle contents.

 

The reversal process involves a first development (much the same as standard negative developer), followed by a bleach process to remove the developed silver, then a fogging bath or exposure to light, then a second developer (to finality in a high contrast developer) and a final fix or stabiliser and wash.

 

There's probably nothing too exotic about the Kodak T-max reversal kit. Do your research and you should turn up some useable formulae for a generic B&W reversal process.

 

C.I.Jacobson's work "Developing" ; Focal press (several editions) - contains such formulae IIRC.

 

BTW, these solutions don't last forever. I wouldn't bet on them working correctly after lengthy storage.

Edited October 18, 2017 by rodeo_joe|1

J-87 gives the working volumes that the kit makes, so I assume you'd mix and dilute (if necessary) to get those volumes. My guess is the stuff is near shot by now. Also note that reduced EI is necessary. Even back in the day, very few people used this stuff. It was easier and more reliable to make contact prints on another piece of film, though admittedly you could get 35mm print film very cheaply. Kodak 5302 Fine Grain Release Positive used to be maybe $20 for 100' but now it's about $40. With the right development it could also be shot as a very fine grain neg film, albeit with an EI of about 6!

Here is J87: http://125px.com/docs/unsorted/kodak2/j87.pdf

 

it gives the mixing volumes and times for each step.

 

Note that this is a 1 quart kit, but the bleach makes 1 gallon.

 

Other than the bleach, the solutions are reusable for some rolls, but the bleach is used once.

 

(Or with a two-bath bleach, you reuse the second one as the first for the next roll.)

 

I have had old foil packaged developers already oxidized, though no visible leak in the bag.

When mixed, it made a dark brown liquid. If yours does that, expect bad results.

 

Don't be surprised if it doesn't work, but you might as well try it.

I would have thought it obvious that the A and B bottles should be mixed in whatever ratio the bottles contain, and the mixed parts diluted with water to the stated total quantity.

(snip)

 

That is why the Diafine directions warn multiple times that A and B are to be mixed separately.

 

Just about everything else, mix A, B, and appropriate water.

Just to be clear, you mix A and B together and then add the appropriate water?

 

All that the PDF says is to mix according to package instructions. The OP hjas no package instructions.

Just to be clear, you mix A and B together and then add the appropriate water?

 

All that the PDF says is to mix according to package instructions. The OP hjas no package instructions.

 

Yes, that is supposed to be the data sheet, not instructions.

 

For powders, mixing instructions are often pretty important. The right temperature and mixing order matters.

Most start out with somewhat less than the final volume, mix everything, then add water to the right total volume.

(I sometimes make a line on the bottle before mixing.)

 

For liquids, it shouldn't hurt to start out with some water, mix the different bottles in alphabetical order, then top off with water.

I still don't get it.

 

"Just about everything else, mix A, B, and appropriate water."

Do you mix A and B together, that is dump A and B into the same container together, stir them together and then add the water to the mixture that is made up of A and B?

I still don't get it.

 

"Just about everything else, mix A, B, and appropriate water."

Do you mix A and B together, that is dump A and B into the same container together, stir them together and then add the water to the mixture that is made up of A and B?

 

I would put some water into the container, maybe 10% less than the final volume minus the liquid chemistry volume.

 

I suspect that it doesn't matter, but it doesn't hurt, either.

 

Add A, stir, add B stir, when well mixed, add more water to the final volume.

 

This is pretty usual for much of chemistry lab work.

 

The extra water is especially important when the mixing is exothermic, as the mixture can overheat.

Perfect. That is a very clear explanation.