Comments on the Nikon SB - 28

Just picked up a nice clean SB 28, mostly for use on my F 4 (and previous film cameras) but also, in Manual mode on my DF & D 750. Have spent about an hour on it with the manual. Seems a compact, powerful (for its size) unit. With a 96 page manual, it will take a while to work through. I have ni cads,and am intrigued with the repeating flash mode.

Tricks, tips, comments?

I guess it will also work in non-TTL auto mode on the dSLRs?

I guess it will also work in non-TTL auto mode on the dSLRs?

Yes, tested last night on the D 750 -- excellent! According to the very knowledgeable camera shop owner, it will work on any Nikon DSLR.

For some reason I couldn't use it in TTL mode with a D3, nor an SB-80. I was limited to an SB-800 and SB-900. That was 2010, and I don't have the specifics in hand. Older flash units work very well in auto mode, which uses a sensor on the flash to determine exposure.

For some reason I couldn't use it in TTL mode with a D3, nor an SB-80. I was limited to an SB-800 and SB-900. That was 2010, and I don't have the specifics in hand. Older flash units work very well in auto mode, which uses a sensor on the flash to determine exposure.

 

One cannot use the SB-28 or SB-80, or earlier flashes in TTL mode with digital cameras because of the different methods of TLL metering between film and digital cameras. Film cameras meter the main flash reflected from the film surface and issue a quench command when the film has received sufficient light. The digital sensor does not lend itself to this type of metering; DSLR cameras instruct the flash to emit a pre-flash meter the reflection of the pre-flash off the closed shutter, compute the flash duration, and then open the shutter and fire the flash for the correct duration. The SB-80, and previous flashes, are not able to emit this type of pre-flash, so they cannot work in TTL mode with digital cameras. They do, however, have a built in sensor and can work in "Auto" mode on either film or digital cameras.

If one uses both film and digital Nikon SLRs, the best flash to have is the SB-800, which is compatible up and down the SLR line from the FE2 all the way to the D850.

If one uses both film and digital Nikon SLRs, the best flash to have is the SB-800

You have to remember, I have a tendency to try and get it done inexpensively, that and in the recent past I haven't used flash a great deal. I do appreciate your advice, always, many thanks, If I am satisfied with results of this experiment I will upgrade.

I agree with Shun. I purchased a used SB-800 to use with my D750 and my F100. One additional advantage of the SB-800 is it has an SU-4 remote mode which allows me to use the SB-28 on my F100 in master mode and the SB-800 in remote mode for a multi flash setup. I have not tried it yet, but it should be interesting. The SB-800 works beautifully with the D750.

have a tendency to try and get it done inexpensively

 

 

The fact that you have a Df would tend to contradict this statement. <Big Grin>

 

I have had my SB-28 for years. I bought it when I purchased my F100. The first time used the combination, I though it was magic.

The fact that you have a Df would tend to contradict this statement. <Big Grin>

Yeah, well -- it is the only New camera (other than P&S) that I've bought in decades. Talked myself into it 'cause my son was getting married,

I had a little extra cash, and a pile of great old film era Nikon glass.,

Just about everything else, I waited for a price point / condition and pounced. In no way regret the DF -- have much enjoyed it. With no DF2 in sight, except a new rumored mirrorless with the name, I might go for a D500.;)

The SB-28 is just as powerful as the latest and "greatest" (ahem!) of Nikon's speedlights Sandy.

 

It has a great range of manual power settings, and AA mode works totally reliably with any of Nikon's (D)SLRs.

 

Only one peculiarity; unlike its SB-24/25 predecessors, the ISO speed can only be changed immediately after power on. Once "set" has been pressed there doesn't seem any way back to select and change ISO again without switching off and on again.

 

Apart from that quirk it's very straightforward to use. Enjoy!

 

BTW, I'd be interested to know if the Df recognises the SB-28. On my D700, the shutter speed changes automatically in A mode when an SB-25/28 is fitted. The flash head automatically zooms with the lens too. Not so with the D800. That nice backward compatibility has been removed by Nikon.

 

WRT SU-4 mode - or optical slaving in plain English - that can easily be added with a cheap optical trigger device. Or better yet with a set of radio triggers.

Edited September 28, 2017 by rodeo_joe|1

The fact that you have a Df would tend to contradict this statement. <Big Grin>

 

I have had my SB-28 for years. I bought it when I purchased my F100. The first time used the combination, I though it was magic.

 

I have a Df too and I don't have any new flash with it. I use a bunch of old flashes (that is older than even the SB-28).

You have to remember, I have a tendency to try and get it done inexpensively, that and in the recent past I haven't used flash a great deal. I do appreciate your advice, always, many thanks, If I am satisfied with results of this experiment I will upgrade.

The most expensive option is one that doesn't work in the way you need.

Sandy, I have 3 sb28s for off camera use. But I really need a speedlight with swiveling head for bouncing and the ttl ability. I can usually dial in placement of the shadow and exposure in 2 pops and while adjusting the read and compensation, the flash is usually fully charged. With the high iso's our cameras have, cranking iso really makes that flash act like it way more powerful.

But I really need a speedlight with swiveling head for bouncing and the ttl ability.

bob, you have to remember that I am an amateur / hobbyist -- I probably don't need the one I bought. However, am looking forward to playing with it in conjunction with my older flashes. I have a remote trigger for the 283, and thinking of doing some night / architecture, Have also tracked down a very inexpensive Norman Studio setup from a photographer that is leaving the business. I should have plenty to figure out on that over the coming winter.

 

The most expensive option is one that doesn't work in the way you need.

Right on target, Ed -- the old 80-400 got me some very good shots when conditions were just right, other times not what I needed. I'll probably drop that onto Classified.

"Sandy, I have 3 sb28s for off camera use. But I really need a speedlight with swiveling head for bouncing and the ttl ability."

 

- I don't see how that rules out the SB-28 Bob. It tilts 95 degrees and swivels through 270 degrees. It has film compatible TTL, and IME using Auto Aperture mode gives more consistent results than i-TTL. You just need to keep the sensor pointed at the subject.

 

Its measured output is also within a tiny fraction of a stop of any of Nikon or Canon's latest top-of-the-range speedlights at a like "zoom" setting - about 75 watt-seconds. You even get HSS with a compatible camera.

 

As far as power is concerned, there's almost nothing more powerful available in a hotshoe mount. And those few 120 w/s bare bulb designs have a much lower light efficiency that takes away what should be a 2/3rd stop advantage.

 

As you say; pumping up the ISO on a modern DSLR gets you to the point where 75w/s per unit is about all that's needed these days. Unless you want to have a light-fight with the sun of course.

If one uses both film and digital Nikon SLRs, the best flash to have is the SB-800, which is compatible up and down the SLR line from the FE2 all the way to the D850.

 

After owning and using both, I'm convinced that the SB-800 is the best flashes Nikon has made to date, and the SB-600 is not too far behind it.

 

The 800 gives automated flash exposure on EVERY Nikon SLR ever made, although admittedly on non-TTL cameras you do have to manually transfer the aperture setting on the flash to the lens. Aside from that, though, you get TTL, D-TTL, and iTTL and even nifty modes like reverse GN with AF-D lenses. Plus, it can do the same things as the nearly as expensive SU-800.

 

The only camera on which I DON'T use my SB-800 is my F3, and that's because it needs the $$$(relatively speaking) AS-17 get TTL on that camera. I opted to spend ~$15 on an SB-16 with an F3 foot instead.

 

With that said, I do like the SB-28 and it is nice for use on the F4, F5, and F100.

I've never been a heavy flash user but did continue to use an SB-28 after buying a D2X in 2006. It worked surprisingly well in its Auto mode (no reason it wouldn't). Within a few months I did purchase an SB-800, though.

Joe, you are absolutely right, it does swivel. Like I mentioned in a prior post, haven't used them in years so should sell them.

The only camera on which I DON'T use my SB-800 is my F3' date=' and that's because it needs the $$$(relatively speaking) AS-17 get TTL on that camera. I opted to spend ~$15 on an SB-16 with an F3 foot instead. . [/quote']

 

Would that vivitar flash adapter possibly also drive the SB-800 on your F3 ? ,

You find it on Ebay at cheaply all over the place . , or is that something different altogether ?

 

Some info on Mir : Flash Photography with Nikon F3 ..

Edited October 2, 2017 by c.p.m._van_het_kaar