Rank beginner with two good TLRs needs help

Hi everyone. My father, who was a professional portrait and wedding photographer, just gave me two of his old cameras: a Mamiya C220 with a couple of additional lenses and a Rolleiflex 2.8f. I've long had an interest in photography, and I'm keen to learn using a fully manual camera, but I'm rather at a loss. I'm interested in landscape and architectural photography mostly, using natural light as I have no flash or other light equipment. Which camera should I focus on? What film do you recommend and where should I buy it, have it processed, etc.? Should I start with B&W or does that not mater in terms of learning? I'm just outside Hartford, CT, if that matters.) What tips do you have for getting started and learning?

Though I like the C220 & 330, I'd start with the Rollei -- it is handier, IMO.. I would definitely start with B&W, more affordable so you can take more pictures. Film can be had from B&H, Adorama, or others. No longer familiar with Connecticut, but I'd wager there are still camera / processing shops near Hartford. Have fun!

What lenses for the Mamiya?

The Huge difference between the Rollei & the Mamiya is the ability to interchange lenses.

Does the Rollei have a light

meter? (either built in or separate), actually is there a separate meter for the Mamiya for that matter.

The Rolleiflex has a built-in light meter. I don't see any meter for the Mamiya. The Mamiya lenses are 80, 180, and 250.

 

The Rolleiflex only has, what I think is called a prism viewfinder. It does not have the normal waist-level viewfinder. The Mamiya has both.

 

I'd bet he has a light meter for the Mamiya as well as the missing viewfinder for the Rolleiflex, but for now, this is what I have.

 

Given the lack of light meter for the Mamiya, is my choice made for me?

Edited August 27, 2017 by bob_cleary|1

My envy on the Rollei! - I'm very pleased with the Mamiya kit I own. I recommend warming up with the Mamiya while you are still eager and young enough to carry it wild enough to change lenses etc. and switch to the Rollei when you got lazier and believe that it's fixed lens will cut your cake.

Sorry I am European. - I could drop color film at a drug store in walking distance and either mail order it or buy it at the next pro-shop. IMHO it makes sense to have color processed out of house. It is a standardized process and DIY might be already more expensive than outsourcing before you add the time spent on the chore. Decent B&W gets really expensive if you outsource, so I absolutely recommend getting into home processing B&W. You don't need a darkroom to do that; a changing bag is enough. - I don't know the next step. - You could scan negatives at home or print them in your wet darkroom. I'd prefer darkroom, but that 's just me.

Film: B&W for darkroom: Either Tri-X, TMY or HP5 plus in the Mamiya. Maybe TMY or FP4 plus in the Rollei, but the faster (ISO 400) ones recommended first are a good choice! I am not familiar with the current crop of exotic or budged brands (are Foma &/ Forte still around?)

For out of house processing you could use Ilford XP2. I have no clue about color beyond "buy something ISO 400 and let the lab goof things up anyhow..." A serious warning: Shooting medium format isn't cheap. A roll of film with 12 frames costs almost as much as 36frames of 35mm. -Processing will most likely cost at least the same; printing will be more expensive. - Back in the 80s labs charged per print by the width of their paper roll. That means: You 'll pay as much as for a postcard for a 10x10cm proof and those are almost too tiny to enjoy. - Better get a darkroom and some 8x10" paper to print B&W on.

I wouldn't get started without a light meter. - I read rumors smart phones could be used as such? - Do you have one?

Not really -- I'd wager that your Dad has several hand held meters that aren't currently in use. You have all the lenses ex a 65, (I think) for the Mamiya,. lenses add to both fun and complexity. I'd still start with the Rollei. I'm not a Rollei guy, but doesn't the prism just detach, with the ground glass still underneath? If I am right, what you'd be looking for is a folding frame with door and flaps that replaces the prism. What a fun decision -- and one you can change at any point. I would stick to one for a bit so you can judge your progress.

A used light meter shouldn't run you a lot of money, and the Rollei would have come with a waist level finder when it was new, so your father might still have that. +1 for starting with the Rollei--nothing against the Mamiya, but I still remember picking up my first Rolleiflex and feeling like it just fit my hands perfectly, with all of the controls where they should be. +1 also for the advice to start with B&W--it is easy to process film at home and get good results. If you can find a decent one hour lab that still processes 120 nearby then color would be a good option.

Bob -

The C220 meter finder is called a CdSPorro Finder. A somewhat rare bird.

I agree on starting with the Rollei.

 

The Mamiyas are excellent, but to me I find Rolleiflexes to be some of the most comfortable and natural handling cameras I've ever used. Most of my medium format photography these days is done with SLRs, but I have a hard time picking up one of my Rolleiflexes without having the desire to run a roll of film through it. You have the last model Rolleiflex, which some folks also consider to be the best.

 

Exposing without a meter-at least outdoors-isn't that difficult but as said your dad probably has a few lying around.

Bob -

The C220 meter finder is called a CdSPorro Finder. A somewhat rare bird.

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I have one of those.

Exposing without a meter-at least outdoors-isn't that difficult but as said your dad probably has a few lying around.

 

Doesn't the Rolleiflex have a built-in meter?

 

I wouldn't necessarily trust the meter in the Rolleiflex, esp. if you don't necessarily have a feel for what is "correct."

 

The meter has a selenium cell. These meters don't require a battery, but also have a finite lifespan. They are hit or miss as to being accurate or not after 40+ years, and even at their best the ones built into cameras are not that sensitive.

Hi, congratulations. I've also spent a (smallish) bit of time shooting weddings with the same basic cameras. I think either camera is fine - they're just different. One is heavy and loud, but gives you alternate lenses and the ability to focus much closer (this is best done on a tripod - frame and focus carefully, then raise the camera by the spacing between lenses). The other camera is lighter (prism hood aside; I don't know how heavy they are) and quieter, plus has the crank for quick, easy film advance. The Rollei is more delicate on a tripod, and has to be removed to change film.

 

I'd suggest to find a manual for both, at least to learn how to load film. The Mamiya, as I recall, needs film wound to a mark, then close the back and wind. The Rollei, on the other hand, feeds between two rollers, then you just close the back and wind; it finds the starting point by itself.

 

Regarding film, I dunno. I think, that unless you want to start developing and printing your own B&W (you'd need a darkroom with enlarger) you're probably better off to shoot color, sending it off for processing and scanning.

 

I'm more of a Rollei guy, they've been my main film cameras since the late 1960s, but for architectural details the longer lenses and closer focusing will let you do things that are beyond the Rollei's capabilities. I'd also want a separate exposure meter. Best of luck with the gear.

Given the extra info I'd go with the Rollei.

The prism head slides off to the rear. There's a catch at the back that you push down to unlock it. The screen stays with the camera when you do so but can be pushed slightly forward then hinged up from the front to allow changing screens & cleaning the mirror & so on. If you do this be very careful its a front-silvered mirror & delicate. All you need for waist level viewing is the viewing hood.

You can do a preliminary check of the meter very simply. Just wave your hand slowly in front of the measuring cell at the top front while watching the thin needle.It should flick freely back & forth as the cell is covered & uncovered. If that works set an a.s.a. point ahead but slightly down & match the "lollipop" needle to the thin one. If it is basically correct the aperture should be between 8 @ 11 when the shutter speed is set to the same value as the ASA set in the meter knob..

Edited August 28, 2017 by chazfenn

While you're poking about looking for the focusing hood keep an eye open for a small, white curved bit of plastic. Its the incident light measuring cover for the light meter & clips over the selenium cell. Many think incident measurement is the way to go for accuracy with the old selenium meters. The biggest problem with the meter in Rolleis is the tendency of the photographer to tilt it up to see the settings better. This lets the cell "see" too much sky & under-expose. Consciously lean forward to tilt it down when metering. Edited August 28, 2017 by chazfenn

Since your father is still alive and these workhorses provided a living for him, I'd take the opportunity, if appropriate, to talk with him about both cameras, as well as quirks he encountered in using them. I'd also get a user's manual for each (see www.butkus.org) and familiarize myself with the basics. As far as the meter issue goes, learn the Sunny 16 application or something based on it, like the free Ultimate Exposure Calculator or New Jiffy Exposure Calculator (http://www.cppdh.org/download/jiffy-calculator-for-night-light-exposures.pdf). Then go out and have some fun with the cameras. Personally, I'd use the Rolleiflex initially, as it is less complicated to use than the Mamiya.

Apologies from me, the Rollei's release catch for the prism is a pair of latches on the sides direcly over the camera strap attachment. Push down to unlock.Not on the rear face. Sorry.

Apologies from me, the Rollei's release catch for the prism is a pair of latches on the sides direcly over the camera strap attachment. Push down to unlock.Not on the rear face. Sorry.

 

Not a problem. I had already figured that out. Thanks.

That Rolleiflex 2.8f is nice. I'd suggest Ilford HP5+ 400 pushed to 1600 for black and white film, and Portra 400 for color negative. I would use The Darkroom, they do a great job and give you scans.