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What developer?


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Im still thinking.. what developer should I choose? Im currently using hc110. Been using that since I started developing my own black and whites. Im currently thinking of xtol and d76. I want something that gives less grain, and probably less contrast. Any ideas? Thanks
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Developer temperature and agitation technique have as much or more to do with grain as the film type.

Constant rotation with equal time in each direction works well for fine grain as does two turns after each inversion cycle reversing direction every other inversion.

Xtol will give finer/smoother grain than D76.

Some films show less grain if given an extra stop of exposure.

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HC-110 is really practical, so long as you mix directly from the syrup to make working solution each time. The syrup is essentially eternal, never goes bad.

 

If you want less contrast, check that you're agitating according to Kodak's directions. If that doesn't help, reduce your development time, but you may need to reduce your exposure index as a consequence.

 

If you want to see how developer can affect grain, do get one pack of D-76. Develop two rolls. One with 8 ounces (assuming stainless steel tank) of full-strength D-76, according to those times. Another with 8 ounces of D-76 and 8 ounces of water in a 16 ounce tank, and use the D-76 1:1 times. The full strength D-76 will have a strong solvent effect, and your grain should be softer. The D-76 1:1 loses it's solvent effect, and you will see "crisper" grain.

 

(You can also use 4 ounces of D-76 and 4 ounces of water for D-76 1:1, but you have to increase the developing times 10%. See the J-78 data sheet on D-76.)

 

Downside of D-76 is short life of stock solution.

 

For more detail on developers, see The Film Developing Cookbook.

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+1 on what John says about HC-110. What I'm going to say is probably heresy, but the differences between developers when film is developed to the same contrast, are very small. That also assumes we're within its correct temperature range and the rest of the process is done properly. Choose your developer based on convenience or any other thing that makes you think highly of it, then put your time into establishing the right exposure and developing times to get the results you want. I'm not a Zone System user, but the calibration done for that, or even making some "ring arounds" will go a long ways towards success. There are developers that can make a larger difference in grain and other properties, but they aren't off-the-shelf.
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I've tried a number of developers, but more and more come to the conclusion that getting a bottle of HC110 was a very good decision. I've not yet found a film that doesn't work well with it, it's reliable and easy to handle. I'm not expert enough (yet), so having something that simply works well and reliable is a sure plus.

 

Out of the other developers I tried, each powder-based one I have had to mix up, I ended up tossing out quite a bit, since the volume I shoot isn't big enough to consume all of it, and it expires. I really like Perceptol with Delta 100, and it looks different enough from HC110 / ID11 to my eyes, but since it expires quick enough, it becomes a bit costly to use compared to HC110.

 

Either way, without knowing which film you actually use, it's also pretty hard to recommend a developer, as not all combinations work equally well. My gut idea for less grain and contrast would be FP4 (in HC110, works fine).

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Chopping and changing film and developer is a pointless exercise. Stick with a combination - or two - until you know exactly what result you'll get.

 

If you want finer grain, then a change of film will do far more than any change of developer. FWIW, T-max 100 gives the finest grain I know of, without getting into unreliable combinations of copy film and weird developers.

 

As has already been said; too much contrast is down to overdevelopment, pure and simple. Check your measures, temperature, timing and agitation. Although agitation affects evenness of development far more than density IME.

 

Overdevelopment will also exaggerate grain.

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An observation that I've made (not everyone will agree) is that HC110 seems less affected by variation in the pH of the water you mix with. Of course, if that's an issue, just use distilled/deionized water. An with HC110 you're not limited to Kodak's dilution recommendations. Others have experimented and have come up with useful dilutions. I like dilution H for Ilford films, but tend to use dilution B with Kodak film. Also, HC110 usually produces less fog with expired films.

One plus for D-76/ID-11- you can find the formula to make this developer from raw chemicals and make only what you need so shelf life is less than a problem.

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Seems to me that D76 only makes sense if you use a replenisher.

 

The rated capacity without replenishment is one 35mm 36 exposure roll for 250ml, so four rolls per liter.

 

Rated capacity for HC-110 is one 35mm 36 exposure roll for 250ml of dilution B.

That makes 128 rolls per liter of concentrate.

-- glen

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