Konica Auto S2 repair question-- aperture is trying to freak me out

I picked up this Konica for cheap and now I realize it needs hopefully minor surgery. I need to reglue the

mirror, at least, and probably. The other problem puzzles me...

Turning the aperture ring has no effect on the aperture scale inside the viewfinder. However, I opened the back

and fiddled with the aperture, and I can see all the blades moving really smoothly-- everything looks perfect. Is

this a wiring problem, perhaps something to do with the battery-light meter connection? Or is a tiny gear in

there acting up? I have deduced that something is not connected to something else, does anyone have any ideas where?

I've fixed a lot of stereos, but never a camera before, so please bear with my ineptitude and point me in the

right direction... I'm wary of taking apart unnecessary stuff inside it-- especially the lens and shutter

mechanism-- thereby destroying the fabric of time and space itself.

If you turn the aperture to any value on the aperture dial you are no longer in auto exposure mode. The needle on the

aperture scale in the viewfinder will only move in auto exposure mode and will indicate the aperture selected by the

lightmeter. The values shown will change when you change the shutter speed.

 

It is pretty normal that the needle does NOT move when the aperture is set manually. It will ONLY move when the

aperture dial is set to auto mode and when you change shutter speeds. On many S2 the battery test contact is

corroded and then the lightmeter will not work, this is an easy fix: remove the battery compartment, disassemble it

and clean the leaf contacts (or replace them by some nickel plated steel sheet).

 

BTW the return spring of the aperture on the S2 is rather weak. Rebending it usually does not help too much as it

will disturb the matched set of springs in the aperture setting mechanism. The aperture blades have to be very clean

for easy movement.

Winfried, my light meter needle in my KAS2 viewfinder definitely moves in manual mode, It IS the setting when the light meter would be needed most by the user.

Oops read that a bit too fast, sorry.

 

The needle in the viewfinder will indicate the required aperture you will have to set the camera too manually for the selected shutter speed when not in auto mode, Bonnie. It will not change when you turn the aperture ring, only if the light conditions change.

Turning the shutter speed ring changes the iris in front of the cds sensor above the lens, allowing more or less light through. The needle will point to the best aperture opening required with the new shutter speed selected.

Rick, you are right - the aperture needle moves in front of the aperture scale in manual mode - but it will NOT indicate the aperture set manually on the aperture dial.

 

Actually I was a bit puzzled since there are not too many auto-exposure cameras where the lightmeter works (and suggests an aperture setting) in manual mode. The S2 obviously is one of them. On the Olympus 35RC, for example, the lightmeter is switched off when an aperture is selected manually.

Oh, obviously I misunderstood what that was supposed to be doing... I've never even used a camera with auto exposure mode before, only an elderly Fujica, and I think the ancient manual for the s2 overestimated future clueless people who might try to use it someday. I'm so relieved I don't have to muck about with the blades or anything-- thank you much for the meter wiring tip-- hopefully I will soon be posting triumphant trial shots and asking more questions!

What the others said. In addition, you will most likely need to replace the rear door light seals. Jon Goodman (eBay ID, "interslice") sells an excellent light seal kit. The auto S2 is a great camera with an awesome lens. You'll enjoy using it.

Bonnie, the auto S2 is a shutter priority camera in auto mode. You set the shutter speed and the camera selects the f stop. The S2 is a wonderful camera.

When I test a camera, I like to open the back and observe shutter and aperture functions through the film

opening. Adjusting settings or changing the ASA/ISO dial and aiming at bright or dim objects should show the

camera stopping down, choosing a slower shutter, or whatever automation system it uses. Also a great way to see

how using flash at incorrect sync speeds clips off part of the picture.

 

Some metering systems won't activate until the frame counter has advanced to 1. You may need to use a toothpick,

a fingernail

or something to depress the little lever that's operated when the back is closed, then crank it to frame 1 and do

your tests while holding the lever in. Fun, huh?

 

From the front side, you can select a fairly slow shutter speed to give you time to observe it. Aim it at

yourself, with your face in shadow and maybe place a lamp somewhere behind you. Fire off a few frames at various

apertures or shutter speeds or change the ASA. Now tilt the camera towards the lamp or aim a bright flashlight at

the lens or the sensor itself (if the camera doesn't have through the lens metering). You should see the camera

adjust exposure to the bright light, changed aperture/shutter or increased ASA setting.

 

Keep in mind the limited sensitivity of some cameras to low light. The meter may not be accurate or be out of its

range and won't show you much. Do your tests outdoors in open shade in this case.

 

Another test is to shoot a setup photo series. Place a card listing the camera's settings in the frame, written

boldly with a marker. Shoot several frames, changing one thing or another a stop at a time. Make a new card for

every change. For automatic cameras, just halve or double the ASA setting. The negatives should clearly show the

difference in exposure using

various ASA numbers and the writing on the card easily readable with a loupe. You can dispense with the cards if

you keep a frame log in a notebook. Frame logs are good to keep track of all sorts of things while learning.

 

Someone gave me a Canon AE-1 recently. I thought it rediculous that the meter didn't work in manual mode. I

guessed it was broken till I read the manual, LOL! None of my Nikons have this affliction.

 

-Ed

It's your camera, do what you're comfortable doing, but if the aperture works and stops down to where you set it on manual, and also stops down in auto to where the auto metering system indicates, I would not mess with it at all. it is a very nice camera with an excellent lens, no sense in ruining it by trying to work on it. Mechanical cameras are nothing like stereo or other electronic gear, but more like movement watches. Trust me, I tried once with an S2, and it's now in a ruined heap. Shoot it in manual, enjoy the nice results. Good luck.

<p>I have a Konica s2 Auto and no matter what I do the meter stays on showing readings with the lens cap on, I even sat the lens face down on the table and it still will not go off</p>

<p>I have a Konica s2 Auto and no matter what I do the meter stays on showing readings with the lens cap on, I even sat the lens face down on the table and it still will not go off</p>

My problem was a chaffed wire beneath the lens bezel that houses the CDS wires. It simply grounded out the circuit and kept the meter fully active