Colin O Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 I just wanted to share a little experience of mine, which may answer a question for someone at some point... I recently ran a roll of Portra 160 through my Rolleiflex. Except...it wasn't Portra 160, it was Portra 400. But since I thought I had 160 in the camera, I exposed everything at EI 160 - 2 stops overexposure. I didn't say anything to the lab - they just developed it as ISO 400 film. Everything came out perfect. I can't post an example as they are all people shots and I can't really post them online, but if anyone does the same at some point, and is wondering what to do, well, I wouldn't worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Peri Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Actually, that's only a stop and 1/3 off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin O Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 Indeed, I knew that! Just wasn't fully concentrating as I was writing my post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Peri Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Indeed, I knew that! Just wasn't fully concentrating as I was writing my post The only reason that caught my attention is that I was checking the meter in one of my F2A cameras and I have to set the ISO at 160 instead of 400 LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karim Ghantous Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 That's what's great about negative film, especially professional emulsions. You can overexpose the living daylights out of them. Underexposure is okay too, depending on the native speed of the film. Pulling and pushing is an option, but not necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Yes, that is usual for color negative films. They have a fairly low Gamma, about half what would be usual for black and white films. This allows for about one stop underexposure, and 2 or 3 stops overexposure. It does mean that in printing, or scanning, you have to get the exposure correspondingly more accurate, and also the color balance. When selecting filters, you select the filter of half the optical density and opposite color needed to correct the print. Kodacolor was very popular with simple cameras going back many years, and through the instamatic and pocket instamatic years. When cheap point-and-shoot 35mm autoexposure cameras came out, and then autoexposure SLRs, such as the Canon AE-1, many people bought those that previously would have used simpler cameras. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy_d Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) I have done that as well and the results were good. They develop it at box speed . Edited July 12, 2017 by eddy_d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeBu Lamar Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 With Portra it would come out great even better than if you had set it at 160. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazfenn Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 You cant (effectively) push or pull C-41 negative film because it has to "develop to finality" for the remainder of the process to function normally. I wouldn't be too concerned though as it has about a 7-stopover exposure range! You may even find the extra strong super saturation attractive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Luttmann Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 I normally rate Portra 400 at 100 to 160 depending upon contrast in the scene. That said, one can also get great results at the opposite end of the scale. Rate at 3200 with a 1 stop push works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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