Early No. 1 KODAK JR. (non-autographic) Help!

Greetings ... I came into the possession of my grandmother's (I'm guessing) Kodak Jr. camera over the weekend. Its last patent marking is for July 8, 1913. As such, it seems to predate most info i've found online re: this model. I've posted numerous photos of the unit on my portfolio (which may not be available as yet - just joined). If anyone knows of an actual manual for this particular unit, that would be amazing... but more important, the view finder mirror is screwed up. There is a blob smack dab in the middle of the mirror that was likely caused by the sun or something (?) Any chance of replacing this perhaps from another similar model on ebay?

thanks....

Photos related to post are included here.

If you're planning on using the camera, I hope you will have checked the bellows and basic lens and shutter functions before you worry with the viewfinder. Those viewfinders are almost the least useful part of those old cameras and adequate workarounds can be improvised.

That said, you might be able to find a similar parts camera or even the same one cheap online. The 1A looks like it uses the same VF. Since the VF is rivetted onto the mounting plate, replacement, though perhaps not trivial, should be possible by drilling out the rivets and remounting the replacement with small screws and nuts.

The manual for your camera is available on BUTKUS.ORG under orphan cameras. At least you should be able to get film, since the camera should be 120 format.

Also, the aperture settings in the old Kodak format (1, 2, 3, 4) translate roughly to f11, f16, f22, f32. As forgiving as BW negative film is, that's close enough.

Happy shooting

The manual on Mike Butkus' site is for the Kodak Junior 1A, the Autographic model, which is otherwise the same as the same as the Junior 1. (Send Mike the $3 donation -- his site is a unique, valuable resource.) The camera takes 116 film, close to but not the same as 120; this Google page lists various ways of adapting 120 film:

Google

Thanks folks! I understand about the view finder. The bellows appears to be in fine shape ... it actually even has a piece of tape where it was most likely previously repaired. I'm curious that it has written in pencil on the inside of the film side, "No. 2 Brown 120". I'm almost guessing it actually does take 120 ... but we'll see...

One thing I do need to address, I suspect, is the little orange (in my case) covering to see the number of the exposure you're on. It's been torn about 50% off. Should I simply apply some clear epoxy carefully to the edge to secure that perhaps?

Actually, there is a manual on Butkus.org that covers both the no.1 and 1A Junior.

I'd go with the actual ID plate to determine what the camera is.

Don't think I'd use epoxy on the red view port. A less aggressive contact cement might be better for later removal if it finally gives up the ghost.

I used #106 primary red gel filter available in 10 x 10 in. Sheets from Amazon to repair the one on my no. 2 folding cartridge premo. With modern film, you still need to put a piece of black electrical tape over the window when you're not winding the film.

The manual on Mike Butkus' site is for the Kodak Junior 1A, the Autographic model, which is otherwise the same as the same as the Junior 1. (Send Mike the $3 donation -- his site is a unique, valuable resource.) The camera takes 116 film, close to but not the same as 120; this Google page lists various ways of adapting 120 film:

Google

Good catch on the film size, and good info on the adapters.

With some metal bending, you can get the mirror out of the finder and replace it. Spread the sides enough to swing the top lens up. Then bend up the two tabs holding the mirror.

Note that the meniscus lens in this camera isn't very sharp. Expect fuzzy corners at any aperture. Really barely good enough for contact prints.

Use Portra 160 film in full sun, aperture 3 or 4, shutter speed 1/50. Or use T-Max 100 at aperture 3 if you can process B&W film.

Okay ... so a couple of questions that admittedly I should probably know already, but I'd like your recommendations on film speed and brand of B&W film one might use on these devices. I suspect I'd be taking a few shots of people, and some objects, as opposed to scenery. But in any case, I'd probably be outside. Based on most of the photos that I believe came from this camera, they were pretty much all taken outdoors. SO should I just stick to ISO 400 or use something slower? And brand-wise, Kodak Ektar or Fujifilm?

John, you mention the need to mask the view port. Is that because the speed /sensitivity of modern film is such that too much light enters the camera via that opening than would would have caused issues back in the day? interesting....

With some metal bending, you can get the mirror out of the finder and replace it. Spread the sides enough to swing the top lens up. Then bend up the two tabs holding the mirror.

 

Note that the meniscus lens in this camera isn't very sharp. Expect fuzzy corners at any aperture. Really barely good enough for contact prints.

 

Use Portra 160 film in full sun, aperture 3 or 4, shutter speed 1/50. Or use T-Max 100 at aperture 3 if you can process B&W film.

you beat me to this ! thanks...

Okay ... so a couple of questions that admittedly I should probably know already, but I'd like your recommendations on film speed and brand of B&W film one might use on these devices. I suspect I'd be taking a few shots of people, and some objects, as opposed to scenery. But in any case, I'd probably be outside. Based on most of the photos that I believe came from this camera, they were pretty much all taken outdoors. SO should I just stick to ISO 400 or use something slower? And brand-wise, Kodak Ektar or Fujifilm?

 

John, you mention the need to mask the view port. Is that because the speed /sensitivity of modern film is such that too much light enters the camera via that opening than would would have caused issues back in the day? interesting....

Ilford Pan F Plus 50 works nicely in these old cameras. It's probably more in lone with the film the camera was built to use. These cameras are best at deliberate photography. I always shoot either off a tripod or braced against a wall or a tree. Aperture 1 or 2 at 1/50 in bright sun. If you have a light meter, it helps. Be really careful to svoid flare. Without a lens shade the lld lenses are really subject to flare. Keeping the sun over yojr shoulder is an old rule that works.

The film view window needs to be covered because modern films are way more sensitive to red than the old films. So, it's best to do film advances with the window uncovered in the shade. Then replace the black tape over the window. The film backing paper will help against light leak onto the emulsion. But bright light could still cause a problem even with the red filter.

I have never had problems with a red window, even though films are now red sensitive. I have some cameras with a green window. Also, some with a metal door that covers the window. Yes films are more sensitive, but black paper is better, too.

But you shouldn't expose the window, whatever color, to sun for a long time, and try not even for a short time. I wouldn't bother with the black tape, but it is your choice.

No. 1 is usually 120 film, and 1A is 116. In many cases, the same camera comes both ways.

Yes, don't worry about the viewfinder. They aren't all that good when they are new.

Just to be on the safe side, I'd recommend putting some black tape over the red or green window when you're not winding.

Almost ALL current films are way too fast for these early cameras. The shutter speed (I="instant") is usually 1/30 or even 1/15 of a second. Use the slowest film you can find and accept vast over exposure in sunlight. When they have waterhouse stops, use the smallest aperture.

Modern films are too fast if you follow the old instructions. The ones I remember say never to use the instantaneous (I on some cameras) shutter speed with the smallest aperture. I is somewhere around 1/25 or 1/50, an minimum aperture might be f/22 or f/32, but you can use those with ISO 100 or so films.

The recommendation for indoor photography is small aperture and B or T shutter speed, maybe 1/4 to 1 second.

With ISO 400 film, you could do some indoor photography at 1/25 and full aperture.

I have been fooling with my Autographic of similar vintage. The finders are hopeless, but an idea occurred to me to resolve the problem. I assume they are fit with silvered mirror glass. I have seen a very mirror like paper used with wine bottles to avoid dripping after pouring. I think you can cut this to size and insert it.

There is a hole for a cable release just below the shutter release . Mine takes a standard threaded cable release. Seems to work ok!

I have a 1A, and some rolls of VP116 to use with it.

The viewfinder works, not great, but then I don't know that it ever did.

I believe the above is aluminized mylar, which is pretty shiny, and might work.

So ... Here are 2 scanned photos that I had processed at Dodd Camera in Dayton OH. Using "Arista EDU" 100 size 120 film, it worked perfectly ... no issues (though I had a hard time remembering advance the film !!)

Because of the format, the lab had to use a bed scanner to make the finished prints. Of which they made 4 or so out of 8 possible. The metal thistle was taken at F "3", shutter 50, at 8ft. The house print was F "4", shutter 50, at 100 ft. I had done another house print at F "3" instead of "4" and it was noticeably lighter, but not washed out. All in all, I'd say it works rather well!

Many cameras from about this time us the US (Uniform System) aperture numbering, which is inverse proportional to the area, instead of diameter, of the hole.

But some use the 1, 2, 3, 4, system, and I don't know the right way to indicate them. You could find the equivalent f/ number and use that.

My favorite of the folding cameras is the first one I ever had, which my grandfather gave me when I was 10 years old, not so long before I inherited most of his darkroom equipment. It is an Autographic 1A junior, and still works fine. I had a roll of VP116 for it when I got it, it was much easier to find in 1968. I had another roll when I was in high school in 1975, from the outdated bin at a nearby camera store. For those, I had a Kodak tank with an apron instead of a reel.

I have most of my old 35mm negatives, not so many of my old 120 and 116 negatives.

More recently, I have bought more (old) rolls of VP116 for it, and now have a Nikor 116 tank and reel.

I also have a plastic 116 tank/reel.