Jump to content

Experienced photographer.. want to get into Medium Format


Ray S

Recommended Posts

I'm not sure if you'll find anyone who likes the stock Epson medium format holders.

 

 

Here is one next to the Canon 2400f that I bought brand new in January of 2011 for around $200.

 

 

IMG_4399.thumb.jpg.316c52bb11b87ecd54763ded2c6eec5a.jpg

 

 

My Canon holder originally came with a black card like you describe, something which I've unfortunately misplaced. I bought my V700 used(and it wasn't cheap at that) and I suspect that such a card might have been included. It certainly helps on the Canon, which is why I 'm using an index card in the photo.

 

 

Here's a close-up of the Canon. Notice the two "hooks" for the film and the relatively wide ledge. I've never had a problem with it intruding into the image area.

 

 

IMG_4400.thumb.jpg.a939c1e3ef3fc5873b08431604a2278d.jpg

 

 

Compare that to the Epson. It sometimes takes me 5 minutes to get a cupped strip loaded, where it would have taken 30 seconds on the Canon.

 

 

IMG_4402.thumb.jpg.a163090ff1ef7a9fe67dc872cf096667.jpg

 

 

Fortunately, the 4x5 holders are quite good IMO

 

 

IMG_4404.thumb.jpg.8294b185dd4f2574abf966d38dfabb24.jpg

 

 

When I get serious about getting a good MF scan, though, I often have to do this

 

 

IMG_4405.thumb.jpg.ace9582c818929971c913569c4f5c796.jpg

 

 

I'm not showing any mounting fluid here, since it's a messy job and I wanted to just show this for demo purposes. Aztec sells high quality wet mounting products, but I make do with spectroscopic grade Heptane and a sheet of optical glass. It's supposed to be easier to work the bubbles out when you're using mylar, but again I didn't want to buy the Aztek get to get the correct quality. I can usually do well on one frame at a time with glass, although I have to remount each subsequent frame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks again everyone for their help answering all of my questions. Rather than buy something too expensive, I figured it would be better to buy inexpensive to get my feet wet then if I elect to really move forward full tilt, I can buy something better.

 

With that said, I went with a Bronica S2 with an included Nikkor 75mm f/2.8 lens (not the S2A with the newer & stronger winder mechanism). Now the long wait for my camera to arrive as it's shipping from Japan.

Photog enjoying my various lenses, bodies, & media.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ray, has your S2 arrived yet? I'm "late to this party" but like Ben am very fond of the Bronicas.

 

I started shooting MF (only as a hobbyist) with an S2 that I got from Jimmy Koh. He is a great Bronica resource if you need information or servicing. I recently moved up to an SQ-Ai with an 80mm and picked up a 110 macro and 50mm from Jimmy. On my own I found a 150mm for it. They are all PS lenses. Earlier in this thread there was much dread mentioned about lugging a MF system around. Honestly, I picked up a compact Canon backpack designed for a DSLR but it securely holds my SQ with the meter finder, back, and 80mm mounted. It was easily set up to arrange padded compartments for the three other lenses, filters, a lens hood, my light meter, a spare back and still have some room in the padded section if I added another back. Its really easy to carry the whole system around on a hike.

 

I am sure there are a lot of benefits to a Hassy system but the Bronicas - either with Nikkor lenses or the Zenzanons have been crisp performers. I probably have my system for what you would have to pay for a Hassy body and back. Next though is a film scanner. Thanks to those who have been relating their experiences with the Epsons. I probably will hunt down a V700 since I also will need to scan 4x5.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Andy,

 

Yes it arrived yesterday! This camera came in truly mint condition!! There are no scratches or signs of wear/tear! It is literally in "like new" condition.18921113_10155744749996686_2069083777572894599_o.jpg?oh=acabf3b6ef5a76c88c0a028182110a3d&oe=59DEC761

I already ran a roll through it and tried to develop it but discovered you have to be careful when you open it and use tape to secure the film so it doesn't unwind on you!

 

So that roll was nice and white LOL!

Photog enjoying my various lenses, bodies, & media.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like a nice, solid camera.

 

Did you make sure that the film was all the way on the take up spool and use lick and stick tab to secure the backing paper end(be sure you tuck the end under)?

 

I guess I take this stuff for granted, but I've never had a roll spontaneously unroll when I was taking it out of the camera. On SLRs, I usually pull the insert out and then pull out the take-up spool before sealing it up.

 

BTW, tucking the tab and then licking and sticking becomes habit when you shoot a lot of MF, but it can get some funny looks out in public also :) . At least with Fuji you just have to stick the tab.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL... I just learned that it's a lick and stick end on Sunday. I was carrying rubber bands with me before I learned that.

Here's a pic from Sunday. (Using Kodak Ektar 100 @ 1/500 sec & f8, developed @ home, scanned then post processed in PS).

 

 

19024890_10155756399581686_1055777289367354477_o.jpg?oh=0a468290d19f0590cc9a90998e76e93f&oe=59D1C9A1

  • Like 1
Photog enjoying my various lenses, bodies, & media.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great!

 

Kodak and Ilford still use the "lick and stick" system. Fuji has the "easy end seal" where it's a sticker that you pull apart and the wrap it around the film.

 

Also, one of the other nice things about Fuji film is the "Easy Load" spool. Basically, there's a hook molded into the center of the spool and a hole punched into the leader. Once you put the leader through the spindle, you know it's attached and you don't have to wrestle with holding it while you make the first turn to make sure it's going to hold.

 

Before I started doing my own E6, I use to ask for the Fuji spools back when I had them processed, or at least until I had enough of a supply of them to keep me going. Fuji film will, of course, work on any spool and the Quick Load spools work with any film, but it's a nice enough feature that I like having it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all!

 

Ben, yes, I see how that works with the Kodak film. I'll still carry rubber bands just in case. As for the spools, I haven't tried any Fuji MF films yet but I'll keep your comments in mind for when I eventually do.

 

Andy so far, I've found the Bronica film back pretty straight forward to set up. I like the way the camera is set up. Externally I t is a copy of the Hasselblad, however, my understanding is, the internals are much improved and the available Nikkor lenses are pretty sharp.

 

Wil, to be frank, I had to do a bit of post processing to get them to look like this, but that may be because I need new chemistry. I've developed more than a dozen rolls of 35mm film with this batch which is when you should be considering replacing the chemistry, then I developed several rolls of 120 MF film. Because of this the images appear overexposed before being processed.

Photog enjoying my various lenses, bodies, & media.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think most of us who do color are guilty of stretching our chemistry to the limits just for cost reasons. I don't do C41 myself(I can get it done locally for $4.50 a roll and don't shoot a lot of it) but do E-6.

 

That reminds me that I shot a roll of Ektar in my S2a this past weekend and need to run it by the lab-I have a couple of rolls of C-41 piled up.

 

BTW, I agree that loading the camera is straight forward, but it doesn't change the fact that looping the film over the insert and back is a pain compared to the "straight shot" of TLRs :) . Also, I ran into an interesting problem this weekend where I didn't have the insert fully seated and couldn't figure out why the counter wasn't advancing. I bit the bullet and opened the back, and fortunately the film hadn't advanced any.

 

Just go gentle on winding these-as you've been warned the winding system is the weak point in the system. I'd go so far as to encourage you to resist the temptation to fold out the winding crank and only wind it by the knob.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know what you mean with regards to the winding Ben. I find it winds easily until the last part then the action is 'brutal' on mine and this looks to be a 'minty' camera with little or no sign of wear.
Photog enjoying my various lenses, bodies, & media.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know what you mean with regards to the winding Ben. I find it winds easily until the last part then the action is 'brutal' on mine and this looks to be a 'minty' camera with little or no sign of wear.

Ray, that last bit of rotation is definitely hard on both of mine (S2 and S2a). I think its the nature of the beast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well glad to hear I'm not the only who's getting that Andy!

 

BTW, based on the way the Shutter Speed Selector Dial is designed does anyone know what else connects to it?

 

Again, TIA!

Photog enjoying my various lenses, bodies, & media.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...