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Canon Thursday #22


Nick D.

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I was going to do a red rose.

I've been playing with exposure on the red roses. My in camera jpg always have the red channel overexposed if i have a rose big on the photo.

So i've been underexposing up to 2 stops and then trying to correct in ps.

Still not to my liking, and composition is way off.. this one is exposed to meter, and tweaked in ps.

 

roos_IMG_4800_ps.jpg.487bc98256c16961d02f080f5aa0e378.jpg

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I was going to do a red rose.

I've been playing with exposure on the red roses. My in camera jpg always have the red channel overexposed if i have a rose big on the photo.

So i've been underexposing up to 2 stops and then trying to correct in ps.

Still not to my liking, and composition is way off.. this one is exposed to meter, and tweaked in ps.

 

[ATTACH=full]1190193[/ATTACH]

Exactly the problem I have encountered: all the Canons I had/have are overexposing red, so when I photograph something red I underexpose too.

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I was going to do a red rose.

I've been playing with exposure on the red roses. My in camera jpg always have the red channel overexposed if i have a rose big on the photo.

So i've been underexposing up to 2 stops and then trying to correct in ps.

Still not to my liking, and composition is way off.. this one is exposed to meter, and tweaked in ps.

 

The "blinkies" in the in-camera preview are not accurate and tend to overstate over-exposure. I tend to expose with some in-camera blinkies lit up, but, of course, not the entire subject. I find that RAW conversion does not require much, if any, red channel correction. 2-stops seems like way more than I adjust. Rather than pull up, I'm pulling down Highlights or Reds.

 

It's a shame that we can't opt to see the RGB histogram and/or blinkies of the RAW file, instead of the stupid, almost useless, in-camera JPG histogram.

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I've been experimenting a bit, cr2 to PS, about 1/3 to 1/2 stop underexposed does the trick most of the time. (depending how big the flower is in the immage)

Looking at the histograms in ps-raw.

 

Started off with the way jpg from camera looked, that i didn't like,

the cr2 looks a lot better in windows..

then i open the cr2 in photoshop, it looks different again.. but tweaks easy to what i want.

The slightly under cr2 are about what i want in ps. (with the flower taking up over 50% of the immage)

Just needs a little upening up the shadows.

It saves to a nice jpg.

 

Now trying to even out the prints..

printing from ps gives a slightly different color from saving to jpg and printing that with the canon printer utility.

(canon 8050 printer)

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I've been experimenting a bit, cr2 to PS, about 1/3 to 1/2 stop underexposed does the trick most of the time. (depending how big the flower is in the immage)

Looking at the histograms in ps-raw.

 

...

 

Now trying to even out the prints..

printing from ps gives a slightly different color from saving to jpg and printing that with the canon printer utility.

(canon 8050 printer)

 

Okay, -1/3 to -1/2 EV is, indeed, consistent with my experience.

 

I use Canon's Print Studio Pro with my PRO-100 printer, printing out of Lightroom. PSP will plug-in to PS also, I believe. Anyway, with my calibrated NEC 4k monitor, getting a great match is easy as pie.

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I find turning the red saturation down a bit in Lightroom works for me. But in some photos with bright red and faces it can be tricky and I have to use the saturation brush to turn down the red of bright red objects only and not touch the skin so I don't effect the skin color.
Cheers, Mark
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