Linear Polarizer damages DSLRs? How?

I never use P and have pretty much abandoned A and S nowadays too. Simply for lack of some control features for either (because Nikon doesn't think things through all the way). Nowadays, I am always in M with AutoISO on. I am free to choose shutter speed and aperture the way that suits the situation at hand best. AutoISO makes sure I get the correct exposure (which I may modify using the exposure compensation button (like I did before with A and S, generally also with AutoISO on). The one issue with AutoISO is the lack of an option to change the minimum shutter speed without digging into the menu! I am almost always in matrix mode, occasionally I need spot. Never needed the AE-L/AF-L button.

 

I really start to resent Nikon moving more and more crucial controls to the left of the camera where they are impossible to reach especially when using long lenses. Try to change between different AF modes with a button on the left when hand-holding a 200-500 lens! On the D7x00 and D6x0/D750, they couldn't possibly have put the ISO button in a worse position even if they tried! Luckily, on some cameras, it now can be programmed to a button that can be reached with the right hand.

 

The one thing Sony got right with their A7 Series is to have the controls reachable with the right hand. Not that there's still plenty of room for improvement. Try to locate the AF-ON button on either battery grip by feel, for example.

I have to admit I also like the ability to control the settings, that's one reason why I haven't "upgraded" to a more modern system with multiple Totally automated preset modes.

I have to admit I also like the ability to control the settings, that's one reason why I haven't "upgraded" to a more modern system with multiple Totally automated preset modes.

 

Along those same lines, if I'm using a camera with a good "match needle" type meter I'm unlikely to use any auto settings that may be present on the camera. Along those same lines, I like a real moving meter needle so that I can see just how far off I am by the deflection of the needle(not just a +/-/correct indicator). I'll certainly use an LED or LCD, though.

 

Although this is ancient technology, I was taking pictures at a Mother's Day breakfast my church had yesterday. I was using Tri-X in an F-2 with a DP-1 prism(first generation metered prism for this camera).

 

I have a lot of experience photographing this particular room, as I was there documenting it when they built it and have photographed I have no idea how many events in every lighting condition imaginable with about every type of camera imaginable. That runs from Rolleiflexes to Digital P&Ss, iPhones, and DSLRs(although probably the bulk has been with 35mm SLRs). In any case, I set the shutter speed to 1/125 and took a couple of quick meter readings around the room to get an idea of what aperture I needed for various spots then just went to work without paying much attention to the meter.

 

One of the particular challenges of this room is that one wall is entirely windows, and either the buffet line is set up along it or if there's some sort of "head table" it will be there. On a bright day, it will throw off any meter no matter how good, and sometimes the typical +/-2 exposure comp. dial isn't close to enough to get you right. Yesterday, I kept the exposure where I was when turned around without my back to the windows when I was facing them and the negatives looked good.

 

Unfortunately, I get a bit annoyed at having to twiddle dials on a "modern camera" to get the exposure where I want. IMO, Nikon got it right on the F4. I've never played with a Df, and although I've heard mixed things on them I'd really like to give one a try.

The key to using a metering system, internal or hand-held, is to know its limitations. Backlight from a bright window is always a problem, as are bright faces against a dark background. Metering still works in manual mode, which is often the best choice in these situations.

With regard to Auto ISO, I would just mention that for some of the low end Nikons, like the D3200, there is an undocumented feature (or bug), as well as a built in inconvenience. First of all one cannot toggle auto ISO without going into the menu, which is cumbersome. Since the exposure compensation is also disabled in manual mode, you can't override the meter in M mode with auto ISO on. It's actually easier to do in an automatic mode. Second, when Auto ISO is enabled, the maximum setting for Auto ISO cannot be overridden manually. The display shows a higher ISO, but the EXIF shows that it tops at the preset maximum. I found this annoying, since the D3200 is a bit noisy at higher ISO, and I would have liked it to float between 100 and 400 or 800. But then in order to make a brief foray into higher ISO when needed, one has to disable Auto altogether. I just left it off. The Fn button is well placed for manual ISO changes. The two dial setup on the D7100 is easier, since it allows you to toggle Auto ISO without the menu, and also allows manual setting above the Auto maximum while Auto is still on.

 

On the other hand, the manual meter bar display in the viewfinder of the D3200 is fine, and much nicer than the mere plus/minus LED found in some old film cameras. In manual mode one can set the aperture and speed, and then dial the ISO to taste.

On the other hand, the manual meter bar display in the viewfinder of the D3200 is fine, and much nicer than the mere plus/minus LED found in some old film cameras. In manual mode one can set the aperture and speed, and then dial the ISO to taste.

 

I do not particularly care for the meter displays on older Nikon SLRs. The moving needle ones are okay, but I don't like the LED ones. Of the F series, the F3 is probably my least favorite with the(hard to see) +- in the top left LCD to show correct exposure.

 

By contrast, I consider the meter display on the New F-1 to be what a manual light meter SHOULD be. The aperture scale is shown on the right side of the viewfinder, and a "lollipop" indicates the currently selected aperture on the lens. When the meter is activated, a second needle shows what the meter thinks the correct aperture is(based on the ISO and shutter speed). If you agree, just line up the meter needle and lollipop. If you don't agree, you can easily see just how much you are underexposing or overexposing. In addition, unlike the F3, you can set the camera to illuminate the meter window for a few seconds when you half press the shutter button(there's no three handed pushing the little button on top of the finder that's not that bright anyway).

 

Quite a few other Canon cameras, including the original F-1 and the FTb, use the same general type of meter but don't show an aperture scale. You can still judge the amount of overexposure or underexposure by the spacing between the two.