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2 framing squares for make shift easel?


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Has any one ever tried to use 2 framing squares for an easel? With the cost of the 4 blades being so high. (what isn't in photography) Thinking about using 2 framing squares. Attaching them when they are set is no problem. The only problem i could see, is, since they are not hinged to a base. To get the paper under it. Thanks
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Easels are pretty expensive new.

 

There are plenty on eBay for reasonable prices.

 

You might also find some on craigslist (usually along with other darkroom supplies)

or even freecycle.

 

Even more than easels, though, big trays are pretty expensive new, considering that

they are just plastic trays. Again, finding used ones is the best way around that.

-- glen

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Compared to the amount of money you're likely to waste on paper and chemicals with a jury rigged system a used easel is likely to pay for itself pretty quickly, to say nothing of the increased satisfaction from making prints that look good. Glen's suggestions are good--there is still a lot of older darkroom equipment going for low prices on craigslist, etc. and it is easy to tell if an easel is in good condition. My 30+ year old Saunders easels still work like new, after thousands of prints made with them.
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A top brand 4 bladed easel is not a must.

Actually, I far prefer three bladed ones, which are also cheaper.

You can also work with two bladed ones, most of us started with them. Not the best for DW FB papers, but far better than anything else, and probably cheaper, too.

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I never had a four blade, but the two blade ones that I have allow moving the stop, such that you can change the margin on all sides.

 

Also, I notice the Speed EZ Els are reasonably priced on eBay. I have one of those.

-- glen

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I made my own using 3/4" no voids plywood 18X22; I never printed larger than 16X20. I glued a thin piece of metal over the top of plywood, and attached two aluminum L brackets to two edges of the plywood making a 90 degree right angle. The L brackets [top and one side] over hung the top of the easel about 3/8" and were raised just above the metal top. My paper could slide under the L Brackets [not too much play] and Al-Ni-Co magnets held the other two sides. This would work for any size print up to 16X20. When making test strips, a series of magnets could be placed on the edges of the paper to indicate each increasing exposure strip. I painted the metal top "middle gray" to keep any reflections at a minimum.
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While two carpenter's squares would work, I am surprised that no one commented on the issue! The metal on these is thick enough to cause a significant gap from the overlapping points to about a third of the way down. As such, one will get a light bleed and not a fine, crisp edge line. Second, you will need a third (pun intended) alignment device--such as a drafting triangle or small square to ensure that your 'frame' is square. Tape will keep it that way until a size change is required. An "ell" of thin cardboard taped along the top inside bottom left angle will also provide a convenient paper stop for positioned alignment. A lot of jury rigged work...

 

Stock size fixed frame easels are pretty cheap. These old frames often have three sizes on one side and an 8x10" on the other. I bought my Saunders/Omega blade easels long ago on Fleabay--and they were not cheap then. But I look at the cost across time. 15 years later and they are still in fine shape--and will still be when my heirs have to deal with all of the stuff I leave behind. Get the best you can afford, and move forward. Frustration and darkrooms should be mutually exclusive! :cool:

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