jack_welsh Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Has any one ever tried to use 2 framing squares for an easel? With the cost of the 4 blades being so high. (what isn't in photography) Thinking about using 2 framing squares. Attaching them when they are set is no problem. The only problem i could see, is, since they are not hinged to a base. To get the paper under it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Easels are pretty expensive new. There are plenty on eBay for reasonable prices. You might also find some on craigslist (usually along with other darkroom supplies) or even freecycle. Even more than easels, though, big trays are pretty expensive new, considering that they are just plastic trays. Again, finding used ones is the best way around that. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 thanks the 4 blades seem to be 100.00 and up on ebay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJG Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Compared to the amount of money you're likely to waste on paper and chemicals with a jury rigged system a used easel is likely to pay for itself pretty quickly, to say nothing of the increased satisfaction from making prints that look good. Glen's suggestions are good--there is still a lot of older darkroom equipment going for low prices on craigslist, etc. and it is easy to tell if an easel is in good condition. My 30+ year old Saunders easels still work like new, after thousands of prints made with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jose_angel Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 A top brand 4 bladed easel is not a must. Actually, I far prefer three bladed ones, which are also cheaper. You can also work with two bladed ones, most of us started with them. Not the best for DW FB papers, but far better than anything else, and probably cheaper, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 I never had a four blade, but the two blade ones that I have allow moving the stop, such that you can change the margin on all sides. Also, I notice the Speed EZ Els are reasonably priced on eBay. I have one of those. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 Thanks, adding Carbros to my carbons. having a wide border on all 4 sides is helpful to prevent frilling and such. Have a Saunders 2 blade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_hoyt Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 I made my own using 3/4" no voids plywood 18X22; I never printed larger than 16X20. I glued a thin piece of metal over the top of plywood, and attached two aluminum L brackets to two edges of the plywood making a 90 degree right angle. The L brackets [top and one side] over hung the top of the easel about 3/8" and were raised just above the metal top. My paper could slide under the L Brackets [not too much play] and Al-Ni-Co magnets held the other two sides. This would work for any size print up to 16X20. When making test strips, a series of magnets could be placed on the edges of the paper to indicate each increasing exposure strip. I painted the metal top "middle gray" to keep any reflections at a minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 Thanks, Paul! Would much rather make my own, so I can use the money towards a larger enlarger than my B-66. having to use that for my 6x7 and 6x9 negs is a bummer.i print those in square format. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akocurek Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 I have a bunch of stuff in storage that I should try selling. That will be my project once I get caught up with things! Are you in the Chicago area, Jack Welsh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PapaTango Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 While two carpenter's squares would work, I am surprised that no one commented on the issue! The metal on these is thick enough to cause a significant gap from the overlapping points to about a third of the way down. As such, one will get a light bleed and not a fine, crisp edge line. Second, you will need a third (pun intended) alignment device--such as a drafting triangle or small square to ensure that your 'frame' is square. Tape will keep it that way until a size change is required. An "ell" of thin cardboard taped along the top inside bottom left angle will also provide a convenient paper stop for positioned alignment. A lot of jury rigged work... Stock size fixed frame easels are pretty cheap. These old frames often have three sizes on one side and an 8x10" on the other. I bought my Saunders/Omega blade easels long ago on Fleabay--and they were not cheap then. But I look at the cost across time. 15 years later and they are still in fine shape--and will still be when my heirs have to deal with all of the stuff I leave behind. Get the best you can afford, and move forward. Frustration and darkrooms should be mutually exclusive! :cool: "I See Things..." The FotoFora Community Experience [Link] A new community for creative photographers. Come join us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Thanks for all the responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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