mark_stephan2 Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Can I remove the camera battery from my F-1N and let the AE Winder FN advance the film and provide power to the light meter? I'm thinking about adding one to my camera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member69643 Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Nope, it doesn't power the meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_stephan2 Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 So that means one in the body and 4- AA' batteries in the grip. Thanks for the info, I was hoping I could stop using and buying the LR-44's because my camera may have a fault as it drains batteries quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwmcbroom Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 What, are you stacking LR-44's in your F-1N's battery compartment? The New F-1 takes a single 6v PX28, same as the A-series Canons. If you're stacking 1.5v LR-44s, maybe that's your problem -- especially if they're alkaline (wrong discharge profile). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 What, are you stacking LR-44's in your F-1N's battery compartment? The New F-1 takes a single 6v PX28, same as the A-series Canons. If you're stacking 1.5v LR-44s, maybe that's your problem -- especially if they're alkaline (wrong discharge profile). The New F-1 is fine with any discharge profile battery-it will meter and function correctly up until the battery no longer has enough power to activate the power/shutter release. Over the years, I've run my fair share of alkaline, silver, and lithium batteries in my New F-1. All of them work equally well, although I prefer the lithiums as the F-1 uses so little power that in my experience batteries tend to perish from age rather than use. Please note that this is only applicable to the New F-1(F-1N), not the original F-1(aka F-1 and F-1n). The original F-1s DO require a battery of the correct voltage with a stable discharge curve-in the old days this was a mercury battery. Now, you can have a zener diode installed to use silver oxide, use a Wein cell, or if you're a cheapskate like me you shove a #625 hearing aide battery(~$10 for 8) in the battery compartment and use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck909 Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 if you're a cheapskate like me you shove a #625 hearing aide battery(~$10 for 8) in the battery compartment and use it. You mean a #675, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 You mean a #675, right? You're right. I just remember "blue tab" when I go looking for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 One last thing-there is only one common way to power the New F-1 via anything other than an internal battery. If you use the Ni-Cd pack on the motor drive, there is a cable which replaces the battery door and allows you to power the camera from the battery pack. These aren't super common, but do show up. Back about 10 years ago, I rebuilt a couple and sold them on Ebay. I have one I rebuilt for myself that's still going strong. I hate to make a C vs. N comparison and overall I consider the New F-1 a better camera than the contemporary F3, one thing I do have to give Nikon credit for is that the MD-4 for the F3 will automatically power the body when attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now