Density in a Print

When printing some of my photos, I notice that they are either too dense or not dense enough. The ones that aren't dense enough occasionally have a foggy appearance. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Any feedback would be appreciated.

The ones that aren't dense enough occasionally have a foggy appearance.

 

Hi, the real problem is a lack of density, aka not dark enough, right? Ok, there are two probable reasons: either the paper did not get enough development, or it didn't get enough exposure in the enlarger. You can test the developer by exposing the paper to room light, then develop for as long as it takes ( probably not over two minutes, check instructions for the paper). If this gives you good, dark blacks, then you should increase the printing exposure time.

 

Note: it is also possible that you have old paper that's gone bad. You can use the same test I said for developer, but this time you must have a "known good" developer.

 

Ps, if you print dark enough to get a good black (in an area that SHOULD be black), but now the overall print is too dark, then this indicates that you need more "contrast" in the paper. If it's variable contrast paper (pretty likely) check the paper instructions for info on the filters. (If not variable grade, you'd need to get some "harder" (higher contrast) grade paper.) Note, you will typically get into this situation if the FILM was underexposed (or underdeveloped). Best wishes.

"The ones that aren't dense enough occasionally have a foggy appearance."

 

That sounds like underexposed film to me. Your problem may be more with your film than with your printing. Have you ever set your enlarger for the correct exposure or maximum black.

 

Set a length of clear film into the film holder to get the film base color density.

Set the lens aperture to the usual aperture that you use. let us say f/8.

Raise the head to the usual height that you use for an 8x10 print.

With the lights out place a sheet of paper on the easel and cover that with a piece of cardboard.

Turn on the enlarger light and for every second move the cardboard down about 1/2 inch.

When you have uncovered the entire paper, place it in the developer and develop as usual.

 

 

When you check the developed paper you will see that it consists of rectangles that go from white to gray to pure black. The spot where it goes to pure black and all the other paper is also pure black is the maximum black exposure or the correct exposure for a good negative at f/8 and 8x10 enlarger height. Count the number of rectangles to determine how many seconds it took to get to that rectangle.

"Set a length of clear film into the film holder to get the film base color density."

 

By definition, there can be no "color density" with black and white film. There is the film base density plus fog. The fog is from some of the unexposed silver halide reacting with the developer.

 

For the OP. You either have under exposed or under developed film with not enough contrast, incorrect contrast grade of paper, or you are under exposing or under developing the prints - or all of the problems.

 

Keep the development time the same for every print. I would suggest using two minutes in the developer.

 

As described in the previous post - make a test strip print to determine the correct shadow speed of the paper and paper developer you're using. Use 5 second exposure intervals. When you've determined the correct exposure to make the maximum black on your test strip print - that will be your starting point for the correct print exposure as that should give you a solid black shadow.

 

However, what you really need to do with your negative is make a test strip print to determine the correct exposure, and if you know how to read the test strip, you can determine what contrast grade to use.

 

Put the negative in the enlarger, and make a test strip print using 5 second interval. Evaluate the test strips for exposure. You want a test strip with black shadows, greys for the mid-tones and white highlights.

 

If you cannot find a strip with all of the tones, then you need to change contrast grades. If the print is all grey - you need a higher contrast, if the print is only blacks and whites, then you need a lower contrast.

 

The way you learn how to make black and white prints is by simply using a lot of paper and learning how to print. There are no short cuts. Pick one negative and work on it until you make a good print. If that takes 100 sheets of paper - then you will learn something every time you make a bad print. Keep making prints until you finally get one that is exactly what you want. That's how it works. If you play a musical instrument, you have to practice to get good at playing music. You need to practice to get good at photography.