OM-D E-M5 IS questions

Hi everyone, I'm considering buying OM-D E-M5, but I've got couple questions I couldn't find answers to. So I would like to ask you for a couple minutes of your time to help me.

The first question is about the 5 axis image stabilisation. Let's say I use 28mm manual focus lens with an adaptor. I stop it down to get a longer exposure, push it to lets say 1/10 or even a full second to get some movement in the background. Will I be able to shoot it HANDHELD? Because I've got a friend that said he shot with 300mm handheld at 1/10..something I find impossible.

And the other question is whether the camera is manual focus friendly. Is there some kind of focus peaking or zooming in to get the focus?

That's it for now :) I would really appreciate if someone would take the effort to help me with these questions :) Thank you very much for your time

Using a manual focus lens, you will have to manually enter the focal length in the IS menu so the camera will "know" the lens you have mounted. That will allow it to provide stabilization for the outfit. With dedicated M. Zuiko lenses the contacts on the lens communicate that information automatically so manual lenses require a little extra care in order to get the best results from the stabilization system.

You can shoot at some pretty crazy slow shutter speeds with the IS system. If the 300mm lens your friend is using is the M. Zuiko 300mm f4, then it also has an in-lens IS system that couples with the body IS for even more effective stabilization.

There are manual focus assist options and the EVF is excellent but again, since your lens has no contacts to "tell" the camera when you start focusing you'll have to manually zoom in to see what you are doing. It's been so long since I shot with the original E-M5 (are you talking about the original E-M5 or the E-M5 Mark II?). I'm pretty sure they added peaking to it, meaning you could enable that. I would just check and make certain the latest firmware has been added to the camera so you have the most updated body possible.

Using a manual focus lens, you will have to manually enter the focal length in the IS menu so the camera will "know" the lens you have mounted. That will allow it to provide stabilization for the outfit. With dedicated M. Zuiko lenses the contacts on the lens communicate that information automatically so manual lenses require a little extra care in order to get the best results from the stabilization system.

 

You can shoot at some pretty crazy slow shutter speeds with the IS system. If the 300mm lens your friend is using is the M. Zuiko 300mm f4, then it also has an in-lens IS system that couples with the body IS for even more effective stabilization.

 

There are manual focus assist options and the EVF is excellent but again, since your lens has no contacts to "tell" the camera when you start focusing you'll have to manually zoom in to see what you are doing. It's been so long since I shot with the original E-M5 (are you talking about the original E-M5 or the E-M5 Mark II?). I'm pretty sure they added peaking to it, meaning you could enable that. I would just check and make certain the latest firmware has been added to the camera so you have the most updated body possible.

I´m talking about Mk1, I can get it for 200ish€ which is kinda a no brainer, I just wanna know what stuff I can do with it.

And about the IS..sooooo is it possible to shoot at slower speeds than usual?

Oh and another thing - any recomendations for some cheaper used lenses? I dont really care about top of the line ones, it's gonna be a holiday camera, I don't like dragging my Nikon with all the heavy glass everywhere..Im looking for one walk around lens (like 35mm on fx) and one longer portait lens (85mm on fx). I dont even know what to look for, what manufacturers make MFT lenses..

The EM-5 (1st version) does not have focus peaking but does have zoom, which can be initiated by setting a function button to do that. 1/10 should be do-able but I doubt that a full second will work. Olympus 5 axis IBIS has been materially improved on newer models (like the EM-5 II) but still works quite well on an EM-5.

For lenses, any Mark II or newer version of the Olympus 14-42mm kit zoom is cheap and decent, as is the Olympus 40-150mm kit lens. The Olympus 45mm f1.8, 25mm 1.8 are both excellent and not too expensive. The Olympus 17mm f1.8 is good but not that inexpensive. The Panasonic 25mm f1.7 and 20mm f1.7 should also be available at a decent price and are both very good.

The EM-5 (1st version) does not have focus peaking but does have zoom, which can be initiated by setting a function button to do that. 1/10 should be do-able but I doubt that a full second will work. Olympus 5 axis IBIS has been materially improved on newer models (like the EM-5 II) but still works quite well on an EM-5.

Zoom sounds okay, at least something :)

Yes I exaggerated 1 second a bit too much, I just couldnt edit the post :D But lets say 1/20 or even 1/10 on wide lens like a 35 or 28 should be okay-ish right? It's not like I'm gonna try shooting with 135mm at such speeds

The more I read about Olympus, the more Im convinced about buying it :)

Here's a pretty good list of the lenses made for micro four-thirds..

http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/m43/lenses.html

The number of makers dedicated to micro four-thirds isn't nearly as extensive as what you have to choose from in the Nikon and Canon world.

Based on the two primes you mentioned, you'll want a 17mm and 40-45mm to cover the 35 and 85mm equivalents in the FX world in terms of angle of view. Depth of field won't be quite as narrow as the FX lenses, which can be a good or bad thing, depending on what you're trying to accomplish.

Here's a pretty good list of the lenses made for micro four-thirds..

 

http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/m43/lenses.html

 

The number of makers dedicated to micro four-thirds isn't nearly as extensive as what you have to choose from in the Nikon and Canon world.

 

Based on the two primes you mentioned, you'll want a 17mm and 40-45mm to cover the 35 and 85mm equivalents in the FX world in terms of angle of view. Depth of field won't be quite as narrow as the FX lenses, which can be a good or bad thing, depending on what you're trying to accomplish.

Thanks for the link, I'm gonna look into it :) well im thinking about using my 135mm Nikkor with adapter for portrait shots, even though the DOF wont be as narrow the angle of view will compress the background nicely and hopefully separate the object from its background :)