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Tilt and Pan tripod head


remy_dubois

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The one you linked to looks pretty useless for video, and it isn't clear how it might attach to a tripod from the illustration. I have a Manfrotto 391 RC2 (under $70 at B&H) that is an OK pan/tilt head for still photography with moderate size lenses (I wouldn't expect it to hold a 400 f/2.8) and feels like it would be smooth enough for home video, but not like a professional fluid head. Most decent tripod heads will attach to a tripod with a 3/8" thread. You might want to check your tripod to see if you have that standard mounting thread.
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What tripod do you have? The head should be of similar build quality, material and supporting weight to the legs.

 

That tabletop Z design is useless for topping a tripod. It has no "on the fly" pan or tilt ability and the supporting arms look vibration-prone.

 

"Qr Tripod Flex Tilt Ball Head" - a nonsense description. It's neither a quick-release plate, nor a ball head.

 

I agree with the previous poster that the Manfrotto range of heads is a good place to start looking. They're generally reasonable value for money.

Edited by rodeo_joe|1
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Ball heads are usually the best choice for still photography, other than large format and certain studio situations. A good ball head is quick to position, and has little or no "slip-stick" action which makes precise positioning troublesome. I've had many three-way heads over the years, and all seem particularly susceptible to "slip-stick." In fact, they are usually used either completely loose or locked, no slipping in between. That read, the control arms usually wobble when loose. Oh well.

 

Expect to spend $300 or more for a good quality ball head, or half that for a reasonably functional three-way head.

 

Three way heads are of little use for video unless you lock them on a subject and leave the camera untouched until finished. If you need to pan and zoom, then the best (possibly only) choice is a fluid head, which almost completely eliminate slip-stick action. Fluid heads, with rare exceptions (e.g.,"Dutch" heads) and and tilt only, with no provision for leveling. You need a leveling base of some sort so that they pan on a perfectly vertical axis. Leveling is done via a ball and socket joint, which is built into the tripod or the head itself. Fluid heads for heavier cameras (5# and up) usually have a ball rather than flat base. These fit into a socket on the tripod, with a diameter of 75 or 100 mm. You can also level the tripod using its legs, but that is slow and imprecise relative to a ball and socket joint. Manfrotto and Novoflex make excellent B&S joints for leveling heads, which fit between the column and head.

 

Video should be level within about 1/3rd of a degree (20 minutes). Expect to spend $150 to $1500 for a fluid head.

 

Other styles of head include cantilevered heads, which balance long lenses for pan and tilt action (e.g., Wimberly). For precise studio and closeup work, including medium and large format cameras, and cinematic video, there are geared heads. Since all adjustments are made without touching the camera, there is no sag and rebound once the camera is in position. Geared heads are very useful for closeups, almost essential with lenses longer than 100 mm.

 

Most heads attach with a 3/8"-16 thread stud and socket. Inexpensive tripods may use a 1/4"-20 thread, or not interchangeable at all. Most serious photographers choose their heads and tripods separately, since needs differ with the application. When I travel, I carry the head on board. Just about any set of legs will do in an emergency, but good heads are hard to find and often out of stock.

Edited by Ed_Ingold
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